E4OD acting strange! Someone please Help!!!!!! I DON'T KNOW HOW DO???
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E4OD acting strange! Someone please Help!!!!!! I DON'T KNOW HOW DO???
Well let me start by saying my E4OD isn't shifting right. I bought the truck and it seemed to Shift fine for quite some time, then all of a sudden bout a year ago it seemed to be shifting awefuly early. I never had a tach on the truck cause it didn't come with one. So I put one on and it shifts every gear at 4000 Rpm never reaching the potential of the engine. But if you rev it in park it will go clear up round 5300 RPM. The other thing is when you get on it, the tranny will shift down then like hesitates and shifts back up. Well this went on for so long I just thought it was normal Till 2 days ago all of a sudden the dang thing started running like it should and heck you could hammer down and run the gears up to 4700 4800 rpm before it would upshift just unleashing all kinds of power!!! Well that all lasted for bout 2 hours when i Shut the truck off for about 1/2 an hour now it's back to shifting at 4000 and I mean it acts like it will never make it will never even make it to 4000. Someone please help I have no Idea what the problem is, I think it almost has to be Electrical??????
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
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From: SE Florida
The first thing to do is get the codes read. There most likely are codes that will give a good place to start looking. The places that read codes free usually don't have the right tool to be able to read transmission codes.
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From: So Cal
What year do you have?
I think E4ODs were used in the early to mid 90s. If those are your year, that 460 probably doesn't want to run much past 4,000. I think redline is something like 4,500 to 5000 on my 94. I would have to check to be sure. But in anycase, anything over 4,000 is just a lot of noise. This seems to be the common opinion of owners for that model year. I even think I read that the rods are not good for better than 5,000 or so RPM.
Your tach is lying to you or something is weird about your 460. Your engine is probably running upto maybe 4,500 if you force it under light load. More likely cause of poor power are the usual suspects...
Bad ignition, wrong timing, clogged fuel filters, dirty fuel system, vacuum leaks, etc.
Pull codes and post them but I would be surprised if your 460 actually hits more than 4500, unless my engine and tach have been lying to me for the past 14 years. I never reved it in neutral so don't really know what happens near redline.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
I think E4ODs were used in the early to mid 90s. If those are your year, that 460 probably doesn't want to run much past 4,000. I think redline is something like 4,500 to 5000 on my 94. I would have to check to be sure. But in anycase, anything over 4,000 is just a lot of noise. This seems to be the common opinion of owners for that model year. I even think I read that the rods are not good for better than 5,000 or so RPM.
Your tach is lying to you or something is weird about your 460. Your engine is probably running upto maybe 4,500 if you force it under light load. More likely cause of poor power are the usual suspects...
Bad ignition, wrong timing, clogged fuel filters, dirty fuel system, vacuum leaks, etc.
Pull codes and post them but I would be surprised if your 460 actually hits more than 4500, unless my engine and tach have been lying to me for the past 14 years. I never reved it in neutral so don't really know what happens near redline.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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Well first my engine is a 351 windsor. But i have pulled the codes through the EEC-IV in the self test and the only thing I ever get is it says that the OD switch is out of range? and I am sure it is an E4OD in mine. It is a 1997 F-250 HD. I spent a lot of time and put a lot of effort into just finding out that it was. Also my Rev limiter is set at 5300 RPM. and like I said it never ran past 4000 Rpm as far as I knew (which stinks cause if you ever have seen this engine dyno'ed the peak range of power doesn't kick in untill 4300 rpm) untill the other night. And let me tell you I was loving it! Now all of a sudden It's back to the same old crap almost like it is some sort of snail mode because the computer isn't picking up a reading from one of the senors somewhere.
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I have also come to find out that factory ford tacks accually do lie quite a bit. They can be off up 500 rpm or more. But I am sure mine is right, it is an aftermarket guage, and I have had it tested by a performance shop right down the road. You said bout a tool to scan for tranny codes, what kind of scanner are we talking about and where can I find one to use or do I have to buy one?
Postmaster
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From: So Cal
I must have had a brain fart. Don't know why I kept thinking you had a 460. 351 is a different animal which I know very little about.
Still, sounds like you need to check the usual power limiting issues. My guess would be fuel filter. When they clog you usually don't notice until you need more power. One symptom if you have dual tanks, is if the engine stumbles badly or stalls when you switch tanks. That can mean the filter is just about dead.
Sorry for the less than useful info.
Jim Henderson
Still, sounds like you need to check the usual power limiting issues. My guess would be fuel filter. When they clog you usually don't notice until you need more power. One symptom if you have dual tanks, is if the engine stumbles badly or stalls when you switch tanks. That can mean the filter is just about dead.
Sorry for the less than useful info.
Jim Henderson
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Ok I got a new fuel filter, plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor, fuel pressure regulator, and installed them. Nothing.... Didn't think it would help because I replace these regularly. Also had the codes scanned by the shop.... Nothing.... Any other ideas???? I need help. please anybody????
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: So Cal
How many miles are on the truck? When was the tranny fluid changed last?
Does the fluid smell and look right? Red color, chemically smell. No burning.
Almost sounds like it could be a timing issue. But the tranny downshifting and then upshifting sounds like a tranny or computer issue, wild guess is a sensor is out of spec or adjustment. I don't know enough about these to be much help here.
Hope someone with experience on timing or trannies steps in.
Jim Henderson
Does the fluid smell and look right? Red color, chemically smell. No burning.
Almost sounds like it could be a timing issue. But the tranny downshifting and then upshifting sounds like a tranny or computer issue, wild guess is a sensor is out of spec or adjustment. I don't know enough about these to be much help here.
Hope someone with experience on timing or trannies steps in.
Jim Henderson
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All right Jim you might be on to something about the timing issue. I have never replace the knock sensor on the thing of course I'm not exactly sure were it is located on the truck. The tranny fluid is good I change it every 15,000 miles(it always lookes good) and I just changed it at 155,000. The truck just Turned 160,000. But this knock sensor might be the deal, though I'm not sure that it would affect the transmission shifting other than if it would screw up the computer and not allowing the disired rpms for the shift pattern putting it into safe mode cause it thinks it's in the transmission. But The oddest part is I'm not getting any codes thrown at me.
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From: So Cal
I do not know your model but many engines have the knock sensor on the sides of the engine block in place of the water drain plugs. If you see something on the side of the block with wires on it, it might be a knock sensor. 1990's Chebby small blocks had two, one on each side, if that helps.
I do NOT know details of how they work but I am guessing that they may be incorrectly detecting impending knock and still would register as operational to the computer, so no codes. But I don't know.
Could also be the timing advance is not working. Could be as simple as a loose or cracked hose. I have read that the crank dampener can slip as they get old and cause timing to be off. Don't know how to check for that unless you have access to a engine scope or maybe a timing light? Or could be initial advance is off. Lack of timing at high speed can really make an engine into a slug.
With computer controlled engines, I haven't had to do any serious ignition debugging since the 80s. My timing light hasn't seen the light of day in decades.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
I do NOT know details of how they work but I am guessing that they may be incorrectly detecting impending knock and still would register as operational to the computer, so no codes. But I don't know.
Could also be the timing advance is not working. Could be as simple as a loose or cracked hose. I have read that the crank dampener can slip as they get old and cause timing to be off. Don't know how to check for that unless you have access to a engine scope or maybe a timing light? Or could be initial advance is off. Lack of timing at high speed can really make an engine into a slug.
With computer controlled engines, I haven't had to do any serious ignition debugging since the 80s. My timing light hasn't seen the light of day in decades.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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Allright, this is going to sound wierd but hear me out:
I had to put a new (well, old) E4od into my 93 E350 box truck. Damn thing would drop out of gear, do strange **** for no reason. I tried all sorts of stuff but the fluid was fine and I couldn't tell what was wrong.
Take the electrical plug and blow compressed air in the sockets (male & female). Then put a little WD40 (it's non-conductive) in there to keep the water out. Damn thing works great now. Not a single issue! Give it a shot, who knows.
I had to put a new (well, old) E4od into my 93 E350 box truck. Damn thing would drop out of gear, do strange **** for no reason. I tried all sorts of stuff but the fluid was fine and I couldn't tell what was wrong.
Take the electrical plug and blow compressed air in the sockets (male & female). Then put a little WD40 (it's non-conductive) in there to keep the water out. Damn thing works great now. Not a single issue! Give it a shot, who knows.
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