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I am cross-posting this info from another thread in the '87-'96 forum hoping for some different traffic since I guess I've stumped everyone over there.
I have a '96 F-150 with a 351W that I bought from a friend a couple of months ago. The truck was "eating" E4OD's for him; I think he swapped in three used transmissions and they all gave him problems, so he sold me the truck cheap with another used transmission. Figuring contamination was probably one of his problems, I went through and replaced the radiator, replaced the stock cooler with a big Long Tru-Cool unit, flushed the lines and added an inline filter; I also added a Transgo 'Tugger' kit to the transmission and replaced the MLPS. I finally got the transmission swapped into the truck a couple of weeks ago. For the most part, it drives fine - I haven't noticed any slippage and the shifts are nice and firm without being harsh; however, a few issues have cropped up that I'm seeking some insight on.
1. The TCIL flashes on startup. The transmission is not acting like it is in limp mode, and the light stops flashing if I drive the truck for more than a few minutes. I have tried switching the OD button/light unit with another one I had on hand, and the behavior did not change; I believe the connections at the solenoid pack and MLPS are all solid and clean as well. Checking the codes with an OBD-II code reader has not yielded anything besides emissions-related codes.
2. Sometimes the transmission does not want to shift out of 1st gear. It will rev up to 4000+ RPM and does not shift even if I let off the throttle. The couple of times that I kept into it, it did eventually shift very hard into 2nd somewhere north of 4000 RPM, but I have been hesitant to try that too many times. If I move the lever to manual 2nd, it will shift more or less normally into 2nd gear; I can then move the lever back to Drive and it will shift normally into 3rd. 2-3 and 3-4 shifts seem normal, as does lockup; it usually shifts normally for a while after I shift it manually to "unstick it" but eventually it always does it again.
3. While investigating issue number 2, I noticed that the manual 2 position does not hold the transmission in 2nd gear. With manual 2 selected it does not downshift into 1st; I can start out from a stop in 2nd gear, but it upshifts to 3rd seemingly the same as it would in Drive. If I move the lever from D to 2 while going 25-30MPH, it does not force a downshift like I would expect it to.
I still need to check out my wiring a little more carefully to make sure it is not damaged; I am considering going ahead and replacing the solenoid pack, since I need to drop the pan again eventually. Any other suggestions?
I'd get another scan tool and read the transmission codes. I'm pretty sure there are trans codes hiding in there that your tool can't read.
I have heard mixed messages about whether or not a run of the mill (think Harbor Freight) code reader will read the transmission codes; based on what you have said, it sounds like maybe not. I have tried my OBD-II code reader as well as the one O'Reilly's loans; what do I need to be looking for to verify that another one would be able to read the codes?
You need to look for one that is expensive enough that nobody will let you use it free. The right tool to read transmission codes cost several thousand dollars.
It is going into the shop this week to have the codes read. In the mean time, does anyone know what is supposed to force the downshift into 2nd when manual 2 is selected on the column? I guess what I'm asking is whether this behavior is commanded mechanically or electronically (or both) and what type of issue I might be looking at, given that manual 2 does not force the truck down to 2nd or keep it from upshifting out of 2nd.
I had the codes read today; the two transmission codes I got were these:
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor CKT High Input
P1711 TFT Sensor Out of Self Test Range
Any advice? Would these be related to the shifting issues? I know the TFT sensor is part of the solenoid pack; can it be replaced separately or would the whole pack need to be replaced if I wanted to change it?
Mark or anyone else - any other thoughts on this? At this point I am not too worried since the truck drives great other than a couple of quirks, but it would be nice to get it sorted out. I need to drop the pan again eventually to fix my leaky drain plug, so I'll probably try to clean the valve body well at that point in case a sticky valve is causing my 1-2 shift issue; I might think about replacing the solenoid pack as well. Any other suggestions?
How did you have your tranny codes read? Mine is a 92 and is OBD-1. Is your OBD-2? I am having tranny problems, but I never get a tranny code from my $35 code reader. I am wondering if certain tranny codes can only be read from a tranny shop?
Mark, thanks for your input; I will check out all the wiring and connections again before I replace any parts.
By the way, I've read a lot of E4OD threads that you have contributed to; it's obvious that FTE benefits greatly from your wealth of knowledge. People like me definitely appreciate your willingness to share!
Just an update on an old thread, since I found some new developments that may be relevant.
I haven't messed with the transmission any more, since I am not too concerned about the small issues I've had; however, I have started trying to chase down the CEL that has been on since I bought the truck. I haven't worried about it much so far, but I will be driving the truck to Minneapolis at least once this summer, so I want to fix anything that might have a negative effect on fuel mileage.
I have had code P0443 (fault in the vapor management valve circuit) since I bought the truck. I did some poking around and found the following threads where others describe the same combination of code P0443 and P0713:
I did some more investigating and determined that, like the OP in this thread, my TCIL stops blinking as soon as I unplug the VMV connector; the blinking returns as soon as I plug the connector back in.
The VMV solenoid itself tests about 32 ohms, which is within the appropriate range; I tested the circuit and found that I do have continuity to the PCM on both wires, and battery voltage on the "supply" wire when the key is on. However, the "return" wire to the PCM provides a path to ground anytime the PCM is connected; this doesn't seem right since the PCM is supposed to control the VMV by grounding that wire.
It does not appear that there is a short to ground anywhere in the VMV "return" wire, since it does not provide a path to ground when the PCM is disconnected; I am going to double check and make sure that I do not have a short between this wire and any of the wires that run from the PCM to the transmission.
I suspect a bad PCM, since one of the other threads on this issue mentions a remanufactured PCM fixing the problem, but I am trying to make sure I cover all my bases. Has anyone run into this issue on the transmission side of things?