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Can a Y-block work with a New Yorker front end?

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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 12:32 AM
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Can a Y-block work with a New Yorker front end?

A friend of mine has an old Chrysler NY he said he'd donate to me. I need to know if my 292 will still work. I have the typical steady rest mounts. still single exhaust. I'm not sure if it would be worth it for me to trade up to the Chrys I'd have to do the welding and I've never tried that much. Thanks Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:39 AM
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I haven't worked with a 'Y' block but I see no reason why it can't be done. I just finished installing a 302/C6 with a Chrysler 5th Avenue suspension in my 49 and the engine mounts were easy enough. I'd say you would want to offset the engine up to 2 inches or so to the passenger side to get the exhaust past the steering box...
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:47 AM
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What year New Yorker? Chrysler made these models for over 40 years.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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I've only seen pictures but it looks like a mid 80's. I'm sure I will rebuild all parts before install. I will need to find where to get the video on how to do the install. I would like to get the templates as well. The reason for the question is the 292 has the front mount that is under balancer pulley bolting to front crossmember. Is that one of the cross members that needs to get removed? Kurt G.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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OK , I have to ask WHY?

You will run into so many issues it wont be funny.

1st, going to run power steering, good luck on finding a 2 groove pulley for under $100 (if you can find it at all) for the y block
2nd, now your spare tire wont fit the lug pattern on the front, are you going to change the rear to match? or carry 2 spares?
3rd, the replacement front end is probably worn out and needs rebuilt this all costs $$$$

If it was me and by no means am I bashing you for your directions or desires, I would buy new front springs, install new king pins, new tie rod ends and new shocks. You would be AMAZED at how nice this old truck will drive.

My stock 56 drives as nice as my 05 f150, rides nice, drives nice, I too was surprised, but its true!

Now add up all that will be spent in the install, rebuild, special needed parts, making of parts. Having any outside labor paid for repairs or welding etc

Now compare that to the stock frt end rebuild.

Not to mention the stock rebuild you could do one item at a time and still have a driveable truck , shocks on sunday, springs next weekend, etc

good luck on whatever you decide,
Kevin Bigwin
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Kurt G.
I've only seen pictures but it looks like a mid 80's. I'm sure I will rebuild all parts before install.
Mid 1980's is a K-Car, like the awful rust bucket Reliant/Aries twins, and the other Mopars of the era.

What's the dif between a New Yorker and the gawd awful twins? The wheelbase is stretched and it has a vinyl top, leather interior.

So...it's a New Yorker in name only.

I'm no expert on K-Cars, someone else may know for sure, but didn't all these cars have FWD?

I do know they were all unit-bodies. There is no separate chassis, just a front subframe that the engine/transaxle was bolted to.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 03:22 PM
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As Bill said starting in 83 the New Yorker was downsized and did not have the torsion bar suspension so it is useless for a front suspension. If it's 82 or older then it might be okay. Usually you can get by with new ball joints and control arm bushings, new calipers and brake pads. Check the tie rods also and replace them too if they are worn. If the pivot bushings are gone then I'd pass on it. I have done two 5th Avenue installations, one an 87 and the latest an 83 and in both cases that was all I had to replace...
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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I do know it has the 90 degree torsion bars and is rear wheel drive, I guessed on year will know more when I see it with my own eyes. As for the rebuild I can do that easily. I spent 13 yrs as ASE mechanic doing FE repairs, alignmets, brakes and engine performance (tune-ups) . The lower pivot bushing was the hardest. I believe I can do it in my garage. I already have a two groove balancer and I have one that needs rebuilt, spun the balancer ring on pulley. I like the adjustability of the Chrysler/Dodge as well as ps/pb and the ride of the independent. As for rear axle, the guy will donate the hole car thus I have an axle, as well as any other parts. But I want to get an Explorer rear axle then I have same lug pattern. I'd like the rear disc Explorer. I just have to do the math for the brake system to give proper pressures to the brakes.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 07:26 AM
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If the Chrysler turns out to be a full sized RWD you can use the rear end also. It's no nine inch but it has the 5x4.5 bolt pattern, it's the right width, and will hold up if you aren't too heavy on the throttle. I used one in my 48 and except for the tall rear end ratio it's fine for cruising. It held up in the original car for 115,000 behind a 318 so I figure my 350 is not going to be any harder on it especially the way I drive. You can also use the entire Chrysler brake system and it works well. Disc brakes on the rear of a pickup is basically a waste of time as it is so light in the rear the brakes won't be very effective.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 01:32 PM
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I never thought of the light rear-end and disc brakes. So when I remove the frame parts the crossmember that the front motor mount goes to will still be left correct. At first I was planning on chrysler rear axle, I was also going to see about modifing other electrical stuff to work. Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Kurt G.
I never thought of the light rear-end and disc brakes. So when I remove the frame parts the crossmember that the front motor mount goes to will still be left correct. At first I was planning on chrysler rear axle, I was also going to see about modifing other electrical stuff to work. Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.
You will have to do some trimming on it (on the ends) but most of it will still be there...
 
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