Hey guys I'm setting up my tri-power on my 292 with progressive linkage and want to know when should the end carbs open? I have them set to open 1/2 way through main carb stroke. Is this right? Also any body with progressives, what # should my power valve be? oh ya I'm running model 97 's on all three carbs. Any Ideas?????? Thanks Kurt Y-blocks rule!

 

Kurt... I am in the process of installing mine. My linkage is set to kick in the end carbs at about 60% of travel. I think my power valve is standard... 65? on my center carb (I'll check). The end carbs are rejetted to #48, idle circuits blocked, null power valves. I set this up last year and am just getting around to installing this summer. Will do pics and a rundown if that will help. best. himmelberg

 

There aint no power valves in 97's.

As far as the linkage it all depends on what you want it to do. Set it how you want it and drive it. Then read the plugs and rejet accordingly.

Mine is set for about 75% since I havent changed the 5.14 rear end yet and I dont want them opening around town or back roads. They start to kick in around 55 on the highway. I'm using 94 style carbs with stock .051 jets and 5.5 power valves on the ends for now. Center carb is an ECG and ends are 59's.

 

So far I've been told they're 97's . I do know yhat all three carb bodies are stamped 1 1/16 and ECG 6, and that there is a pv of some sorts on the main carb. Just took it apart and cleaned it. It has 56 jets and the only marks on pv are "R" don't know for sure about end carbs. But I found out that on main carb I can see light around throttle plates, not good. It's not all around the plate though. Do you think this is a problem, on my old 4bbl it coud be. If it is a problem do you think honeing it out with a wheel cyl hone would help or hurt. I thought of using my 3 stone hone and see what happens?? will post more info as I find out about it. Thanks everybody for input Kurt. Y-blocks rule!

 

I wouldn't hone anything... The way I get it, when the throttle shafts are replaced with longer shafts for the linkage the plates must be aligned with the throat before being secured. This is done by tapping the throttle body with the plates installed loosely till they are located... then the screws tightened and pegged. I hand lapped my spare carb to see if it would close the gap... it almost did, but worst of all the plates would stick. Keep us informed. himmelberg

 

Peter,

I just rebuild my Holley 2110-EE carb (Famous model 94, 1-1/16, ECG 5) last night. The instructions from Holley say that when rebuilding the throttle body, it's either good and you use it, or it's bad and you replace it. Apparently you aren't supposed to try to fix 'em.

I suspect that if I got a bright enough light and looked closely, nobody could get the throttle plates to fit well enough to block all the light - unless you jammed oversize plates in there. You know, aerospace tolerances and all that.

I can see a little light around both the throttle plates in my carb. Practically speaking, are we talking about a 0.001", 0.010", or 0.030" gap as the maximum acceptable? A rough guess would be good enough for me.

 

George... sounds like Holley knows what they are talking about in this case. I have rebuilt 4 of them now so I'm far from an expert but.... doing anything to the bore of the cast throttle body would make the brass plates not fit! The plates are elliptical, the bore is circular. There is one place that it will be a net fit and NOT stick... and not leak air. My guess is that .005 of an eyebrow might be the max... then again I'm no expert. What I do know is that messing with them tends to make them stick shut. That's not bueno. Hey, my grandson is here to help me with the truck.... back later. best. himmelberg

 

Thanks Peter. I'm a very good judge of small distances (my job requires it) and I doubt there is more than 0.005" clearance around my throttle plates. They are probably just fine.

Hope you have fun with your grandson on Father's Day!

 

Those carbs are NOT 97's, they are the late Y block version of the Holley/Ford 94, known as the Holley 2110 also. Those carbs were stock on the 272/292 1955-6 and into part of 1957 on the 272.

The sliver of light is in the .003-.005 range and the tolerance is very important to preserve vacuum.

Three things cause throttle base associated vacuum leaks:

1. Worn throttle rod bores, these can be reamed oversize and fitted with bronze bushings which can be reamed for a oversize rod if needed.

2. Corroded iron base, a long sitting carb that had water in it will have rust pits. replace the base or fill the pits.

3. Corroded throttle plates. Happens often during #2 above. Edges are eaten away. Replace only. New ones may require careful sanding the edges to fit, notice the edges are NOT flat.

It is very important that you not only monitor engine vacuum when setting up the trips but also check carefully for ANY vacuum leaks.
Using a UniSyn makes tuning a lot easier or a friend with an exhaust gas analyzer is the best bet.

 

Hey guys this is Kurt and I want to clarify I was told they were model 97 but I do know that they all have ford script on them. The end two carbs have no chole plate or choke attachments. The moddle carb has power valve. Earl thanks for air gap info. Mine measures .0015 and the gap is not uniform so I'll still give it a try and see what happens. I had minor rust on inside of main body throat I've got most cleaned oout minor pitting , very minor. If any out there want to know I'll post my progress. Whats the best way to stake the thottle plate screws so no damage is done to the throttle shaft???. Thanks to all with input on this. I still don't know other than earlier mentioned 55 through 57 ford carbs. but they do say ford not holley. No ID tag though Thanks again for all the info Kurt Y-blocks rule!

 

"1. Worn throttle rod bores, these can be reamed oversize and fitted with bronze bushings which can be reamed for a oversize rod if needed."

Carl,

I really don't have any significant experience on carbs made before mid 60s. As you know, later carbs were famous for slop in the shaft area with an aluminum base. Can they check for slop simply by wiggling the throttle shaft/linkage. As you would with say a Q-Jet? Just asking because if that is the problem, the bore(venturi) to blade clearance would just be a symptom of the actual problem. You could get a different clearance on the blade by simply wiggling the shaft. Obviously this doesn't apply to your other scenarios you described.

Just thinking, since all you guys seem to have two more carbs than I, you could compare the three, assuming you have at least one that doesn't have a worn out shaft/bore. That might be a dangerous assumption though, based on age.

 

Hey Kurt... alot of folk seem to think of 97's and 94's in the same family. Stromberg made 97's. Ford/Holley made 94's and its extended family including George's 2100. Stromberg has a melifluous name... like Himmelberg, and so they have a certain charm. Yet, for all of that, they are held to be inferior to Holleys... they are tempermental and tend to leak, I hear. Your setup sounds like mine. Here's a pic.

Grandson played with the linkage... making it "smoother". It is not setup as I first had it... but it sure is smooth. lol. I will enjoy further updates on your setup. I told grandson that I would wait until he returns from Canada to install the 3 deuces. best. Himmelberg

 

Ahhh Peter, you have to love a mellifluous company name like Stromberg, or family name like Himmelberg.

Anyway, I just wanted to make sure we didn't mess up somebody along the way with the various carb designations. My carb is actually a 2110, not a 2100. I know it's just a typo but, being me, I wanted to make sure we didn't lead someone astray since there is also a Holley model 2100 carb.

 

Ya my setup is like yours only I got a weiand manifold but i still need to do some work on them before it goes in. hows the best way to adjust them. I was going to block of end carbs and put each carb on the center spot to adjust and makesure they work. Any ideas???Thanks Kurt y-blocks rule.

 

Kurt... staking the plates means setting the screw to be staked on an anvil (read stout steel rod) and whacking it fully supported or you'll bend the shaft and be starting all over. Long shafts for tri power run about $16. I am using the end carbs power circuit only... idle and transition are shut down. I am going to do a complete rundown on what I did when I get the time. I am citing an article in a 1957 hotrod mag, some info i picked up on the net and our friend Carl, who is really on top of these vintage setups. Just rebuild your carbs and they should be fine. himmelberg