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2015 F250 RWD Front Hub or Cone and Cup Bearing?

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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 12:24 PM
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2015 F250 RWD Front Hub or Cone and Cup Bearing?

My shop said I need new front hubs due to bad wheel bearings. Now I'm confused as I thought that was a 4WD thing?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 05:01 PM
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You can still have bad bearing with a 2 wheel drive. A new hub should come with the races installed. You will need new bearings (cones), inner and outer and seals.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 06:00 PM
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The hub is part of the rotor on a 2wd so have a new set of pads installed at the same time and have the bearings packed every 50K.
Denny
 
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 06:50 PM
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So unless you spun a race you could technically pound out the old races and install new races/bearings.

But your shop may very well be weighing cost of parts vs cost of labor. A new hub assy (which does appear to include races, as mentioned above) looks to retail $85-$100.

Now if you paid a shop $100+/hr to swap races it probably ain't much cheaper, AND you've still got a rotor that hasn't been turned. Add in cost of turning your rotor and it's probably MORE expensive to use your old parts....but of course a new rotor dictates new pads

This is why basically a wb re-pack and brake job go hand-in-hand. It's literally one of those "while you're in there" kinda things.....

This is also a strong argument for doing your own work. I personally might just drive out & in races if my brakes were good, but this is assuming my time is free. As soon as a labor cost is associated, new parts that just slip on are the less expensive choice.

And get a Lisle bearing packer - for $20 it makes packing bearings so foolproof your Golden Retriever could do it, and it does it more uniformly than anyone could do by hand.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by WWR
So unless you spun a race you could technically pound out the old races and install new races/bearings.

But your shop may very well be weighing cost of parts vs cost of labor. A new hub assy (which does appear to include races, as mentioned above) looks to retail $85-$100.

Now if you paid a shop $100+/hr to swap races it probably ain't much cheaper, AND you've still got a rotor that hasn't been turned. Add in cost of turning your rotor and it's probably MORE expensive to use your old parts....but of course a new rotor dictates new pads

This is why basically a wb re-pack and brake job go hand-in-hand. It's literally one of those "while you're in there" kinda things.....

This is also a strong argument for doing your own work. I personally might just drive out & in races if my brakes were good, but this is assuming my time is free. As soon as a labor cost is associated, new parts that just slip on are the less expensive choice.

And get a Lisle bearing packer - for $20 it makes packing bearings so foolproof your Golden Retriever could do it, and it does it more uniformly than anyone could do by hand.
That makes lots of sense with what he quoted. $140 for the hub and I’m guessing that was with bearings and a hour of labor vs pounding on things. And man I wish Jack (my 3 yo Golden) was more mechanically inclined. 😛
 
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 07:12 PM
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Thanks folks. I had the image stuck in my head of the hubs for 4wd engagement vs rotor and hub assembly. I feel better now. 68xxx miles seems a bit early for a bad bearing but it was a used truck. No telling what it suffered for the first 50xxx miles.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jtexfisher
Thanks folks. I had the image stuck in my head of the hubs for 4wd engagement vs rotor and hub assembly. I feel better now. 68xxx miles seems a bit early for a bad bearing but it was a used truck. No telling what it suffered for the first 50xxx miles.
For grins ask him to keep the bad bearing for you. Actually it'd likely be the race, which is still in the hub/rotor assy, but I'm assuming he found brinelling/pitting in the race. Will feel like a rumble strip to your finger, most likely.

Not out of the question at 68k, depending upon history of the truck.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 10:05 AM
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Did the brakes go metal to metal or were the rotors worped beyond service? If so you probably need new rotors and with new you get a new hubs with new races. With new races it is recommended that you install new bearings.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2020 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by leadmic
Did the brakes go metal to metal or were the rotors worped beyond service? If so you probably need new rotors and with new you get a new hubs with new races. With new races it is recommended that you install new bearings.
No brake issues. I have what manifests as a wheel balance issue, sometimes. I'll be driving the same stretch of nice new smooth highway and one trip it'll ride normally, the next one it might be shaking badly. Yeah, it's a "3/4 ton" truck, but in the absence of a bumpy road it shouldn't shake your fillings out.

The shop checked the wheel balance (again, it's been in several times for such, even a road force balance), checked the alignment, steering and suspension and all they can find that might be the issue is a worn bearing. I'm not holding out too much hope that it's the cause, but I'll probably tackle it in the next couple of weeks with a new rotor/hub and fresh bearings.
 

Last edited by jtexfisher; Jan 12, 2020 at 03:27 PM. Reason: Grammar!!!
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Old Jan 12, 2020 | 04:30 PM
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Just curious... Who's the manufacturer of the present tires?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2020 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by WWR
Just curious... Who's the manufacturer of the present tires?

I have a set of Kelly Edge™ HT .

 
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 11:23 AM
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Well.... it's finally NOT RAINING here...so I got out and did my own check. The left has a definite CLUNK (along with a bit of CLANG?) when I check the bearings. The right has just that barely discernible bit of play. So it's supposed to be sunny and in the 60s this weekend! Bearing time!!!
 
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