Bearing Cup Spin?
#1
#2
I don't see STRONG evidence of cup (the race) spinning. I would think both the outside of the race and the inside of the hub would show much more scoring than that if that were the case.
Further, the bearing surface of the race would show more uneven wear and possibly scoring as well. In other words, the friction for the bearings to spin on the race would have to be greater than the friction keeping the race stable inside the hub.
Did the race just fall out? Or did you have to drift it out? If it just sorta fell out with bare minimum effort, you might - maybe - have a problem.
But it doesn't appear so to me.
If the hub cannot retain the races (inner and/or outer) solidly in the proper position, then yes, the hub must be replaced.
My personal preference is to change out the races even if they look fine.
Best of luck, but I think you are OK.
John - "banjo" -
Further, the bearing surface of the race would show more uneven wear and possibly scoring as well. In other words, the friction for the bearings to spin on the race would have to be greater than the friction keeping the race stable inside the hub.
Did the race just fall out? Or did you have to drift it out? If it just sorta fell out with bare minimum effort, you might - maybe - have a problem.
But it doesn't appear so to me.
If the hub cannot retain the races (inner and/or outer) solidly in the proper position, then yes, the hub must be replaced.
My personal preference is to change out the races even if they look fine.
Best of luck, but I think you are OK.
John - "banjo" -
#3
Oh, I definitely had to drive them out, yessir. Replacing bearings and cups as a set is best practice. Not saying I haven't ever broke that rule, but.
What I did notice, though the shop manual alludes to this without excessive explanation (thanks, FORD) is that the preload is a lot higher with new bearings and cups, a wallered out, well used set of bearings doesn't take much to reach wheel stoppage while spinning.
And, surprise! ... they spec 50-80 ft/lbs preload spinning the wheel, and then back the nut off at least one, not more than two castellations when replacing the set with new parts.
A used set reinstallation is spec'd at only 15-20 ft/lbs, still backing off at least one, not more than two castellations, install new cotter pin.
What I did notice, though the shop manual alludes to this without excessive explanation (thanks, FORD) is that the preload is a lot higher with new bearings and cups, a wallered out, well used set of bearings doesn't take much to reach wheel stoppage while spinning.
And, surprise! ... they spec 50-80 ft/lbs preload spinning the wheel, and then back the nut off at least one, not more than two castellations when replacing the set with new parts.
A used set reinstallation is spec'd at only 15-20 ft/lbs, still backing off at least one, not more than two castellations, install new cotter pin.
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