Distilled water/water-wetter OR 50/50 pre-mix coolant?
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Distilled water/water-wetter OR 50/50 pre-mix coolant?
Hello, I am concluding months of work on my cooling system after replacing almost every single component and flushing numerous times to get rid of stop-leak from the previous owner.
What do you recommend I use for coolant?
I had plans to use distilled water and water-wetter additive, but after some research I find that "water wetter will not significantly raise the boiling point of water."
I use this truck solely for towing my excavator up and down the side of a mountain. My goal is the most efficient and reliable cooling system possible.
It is my understanding that water boils at 212*, slightly higher if pressurized (such as in the case of our automotive cooling system.)
Water wetter and water will boil at 250* if pressurized to 15psi.
50/50 pre-mix coolant will boil at 265* if pressurized to 15psi.
The water wetter directions say it can be added to either 50/50 pre-mix coolant or water. From the instructions it seems that two whole bottles would be required for our behemoth 8 gallon cooling system.
Does anyone use this stuff? Thanks for any insight.
What do you recommend I use for coolant?
I had plans to use distilled water and water-wetter additive, but after some research I find that "water wetter will not significantly raise the boiling point of water."
I use this truck solely for towing my excavator up and down the side of a mountain. My goal is the most efficient and reliable cooling system possible.
It is my understanding that water boils at 212*, slightly higher if pressurized (such as in the case of our automotive cooling system.)
Water wetter and water will boil at 250* if pressurized to 15psi.
50/50 pre-mix coolant will boil at 265* if pressurized to 15psi.
The water wetter directions say it can be added to either 50/50 pre-mix coolant or water. From the instructions it seems that two whole bottles would be required for our behemoth 8 gallon cooling system.
Does anyone use this stuff? Thanks for any insight.
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From: Hat Creek Ca
Many here use CAT-EC1 rated coolant. Water is not a good idea due to cavitation issues in the cylinder walls. Standard coolant requires SCA additives to maintain proper chemistry to prevent cavitation, the EC1 does not and is good for ~300K miles without refreshing. Best to completely flush the system with distilled water (at least a couple of times) and drain. Then add concentrated to fill to 50% capacity and top off with distilled water for the 50% solution.
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I am also looking for a coolant change. I have been reading, and getting more confused. The local TSC store carries ELC, one is Shell Rotella ELC Antifreeze and the other is Fleet Charge SCA(made my Peak). The Shell does not say it has the SCA additive, if it does not I will go with the Fleet Charge SCA. Both are made for HD Diesels, I just need to read up on them some more.
I need to change out the coolant, since I just bought the truck and have no idea what is in it.
I need to change out the coolant, since I just bought the truck and have no idea what is in it.
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
The Rotella ELC doesn't need the SCA additive, or the associated monitoring and maintenance. The Fleet Charge is a conventional coolant, but it is pre charged with the SCA additives and does require periodic monitoring and maintenance.
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Which one is better for the motor? The cost is the same per gallon.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/Compare...%3B27487%3B865
Last edited by Gatordog; Jul 17, 2015 at 08:01 PM. Reason: add link
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From: Hat Creek Ca
They are both OK for the engine, just that the ELC EC1 does not require the attention. Just be certain that you get the CAT ELC EC1 rated coolant if you choose to go that route. There are several manufacturers that produce this product with that rating, but not all ELC is EC1 rated. Be sure that you read the label. Ask me how I know.
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OK I'll bite
They are both OK for the engine, just that the ELC EC1 does not require the attention. Just be certain that you get the CAT ELC EC1 rated coolant if you choose to go that route. There are several manufacturers that produce this product with that rating, but not all ELC is EC1 rated. Be sure that you read the label. Ask me how I know.
FYI, According to the Spec sheet the Rotella ELC is Cat EC1 rated.
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From: Hat Creek Ca
"So how do you know some ELC's are not CAT EC1 rated and I am assuming this is a bad thing????"
The jug will state that it is EC1 rated. The other is not a "bad thing" just different and requires testing and maintenance as mentioned above.
The jug will state that it is EC1 rated. The other is not a "bad thing" just different and requires testing and maintenance as mentioned above.
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I went with the Rotella ELC, it is Cat EC1 rated. I need 1 more gallon, they only had 3 gallons at the store. I have the green stuff in the truck currently, I will flush it out next week. I was wondering if it is a good idea to remove the T-stat when running the water hose on the truck? That way I can put the hose in the degas bottle and just remove the upper radiator hose.
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I went to a store in town today and did find something that was CAT LC-1 rated. I did also finely read the label on all the various other types of green coolant, and was surprised to find that they all said in big bold letters "Suitable for all makes and models" and then further down in the fine print (...of cars and light trucks.)
I learn something new every day it seems.
Seeing as my cooling system is full of flush and water in an attempt to get the last of the previous owner's stop leak out of the engine, my plan is this.
For the next week, drive the truck every day with the heater on full blast. Each night, drain out 4 gallons of what's in the system and top it up with 4gal distilled water.
Once I flush 20 gallons of distilled water through the system, I'll drain it as much as possible and add four gallons of concentrate CAT LC-1, and then top if up with distilled water and add as needed over the next day or three.
Good plan? I'm NOT enthused about removing those coolant block plugs again as it was a major PITA last time I did it.
I learn something new every day it seems.
Seeing as my cooling system is full of flush and water in an attempt to get the last of the previous owner's stop leak out of the engine, my plan is this.
For the next week, drive the truck every day with the heater on full blast. Each night, drain out 4 gallons of what's in the system and top it up with 4gal distilled water.
Once I flush 20 gallons of distilled water through the system, I'll drain it as much as possible and add four gallons of concentrate CAT LC-1, and then top if up with distilled water and add as needed over the next day or three.
Good plan? I'm NOT enthused about removing those coolant block plugs again as it was a major PITA last time I did it.
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I need to do the same thing, except I was thinking I could remove the T-stat and reinstall the housing. Then remove the cap and put a garden house there, then the water would fill from the lower radiator, go thru the engine, heater core, etc and then open up where the water would return to the radiator, either the top hose or the little hose that goes to the degas bottle. The reason I want to remove the T-stat is so I can match the flow of water coming out with the flow of the water going in. The T-stat always be closed with fresh water going in. Of course I would drain the system first so I can recycle the coolant. I am like you, just don't want to mess with the block drains, did that on my old 94 7.3 idi. The old idi's was a pain, but you could see and reach those.
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