My 1966 F250 has manual steering and automatic shift on the column. The truck can only be started if I hold the shifter arm and hold it in Park while I turn the key. The turn signals now only work periodically as it appears the shifter collar moves a little bit after in gear. I know I need to pull the wheel, but could someone out there give me some guidance on what I am looking to replace/repair/adjust? Thanks in advance.......Rob

 

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Thanks, NumberDummy!

 

The starting issue is due to a mis-adjusted neutral safety switch.

The switch (7A247 in Number Dummy's diagram, lower right corner)) is located on top of the steering column, above the brake pedal. It is secured with two screws and is designed to be rotated for adjustment, after loosening the screws.
From your description I would say you would need to rotate the switch clockwise, looking at it from the driver seat.
The service manual has the proper procedure for switch adjustment.

The turn signal issue could be any number of things, from a steering column that is improperly adjusted, to worn parts in the column assembly to rusty body mounts. There a lot of pieces in the steering column and most of them are subject to wear.
Again, a service manual would provide inspection and testing procedures as well as reassembly help.

Good luck.

 

Thank you, Roger. The Neutral Safety Switch is where I'll start (no pun intended). Thanks again!

 

Im going through my 66 F250 CS CC and unF*&$ing previous owners ideas of mechanic work.
I am systematically fixing PO's halfassed upgrades. First I'm in the middle of fixing the power steering upgrade someone did. Anyway it has the Bendix Power Steering gear and it works just fine and dosen't leak so I'm NOT changing it right now.
the upgrade has caused a gap betwen steering and the steering column. I have a tube from my 1976 F26 that will work. My question is what is the best method to bolt the tube at the dash? the flange isnt as deep as the 66 flange so shims of some sort are necessary. I know its not rocket science but some insight to what others have done would be appreciated.

 

I want to try to explain why you have the problem you have before I answer your question, but I will give you an answer, even though you hi-jacked the original poster's thread.
Please keep in mind that it's always best to start a new thread when changing specific topics, even if the topics are somewhat related.

IF you have the original '66 steering column and IF you have a Bendix, not Ford / Saginaw, steering gear, the '66 steering column is the proper column to use. However, the steering shaft (the part the steering wheel bolts to on the top and the rag joint bolts to on the bottom) is different between a manual and a Bendix steering gear. The shaft for a Bendix gear is about 11/16" SHORTER than the manual steering shaft.
This additional length is what is causing problems. I typically use a later power steering column on conversions when I install a Saginaw box, generally a tilt column from a '78-'79 F series.

I have seen Bendix conversions where there was enough adjustment in the steering tube to make up the difference (your problem), but usually not. Sagging body mounts / insulators can aggravate this difference in length.

There are a few different fixes for your problem.

1) Find and install a steering shaft from a '65-'66 that had a Bendix gear. These can be hard to find.
2) Shorten and reinstall your original shaft. This can be expensive.
3) Install your '76 column. This is about 2" shorter than original and will position the wheel lower and closer to the dash.
4) Install an aftermarket column.

Now, to answer your original question.
The "U" clamp is different between the '66 and the '76 columns as well as being mounted in different locations. However the column diameter is the same. I drill the spot welds holding the "U" clamps to the columns and weld the '66 clamp on the later column, after confirming the proper location. Other than the turn signal wiring the rest is pretty basic.
You may need to spend a bit of time with wiring diagrams to sort out the turn signal wiring, especially if the new column had 4 way flashers.

Hope this helps. Feel free to drop me a PM if you have questions.

Good luck.

 

I PM'd you with info but I forgot one thing. Is the shaft on the 76 4X4 long enough to use on my 66 2X4? I know you have to remove a portion of the shaft so the 66 Steering wheel horn button will fit.

 

Roger C.

I just sent you a PM.

Don't try to mix parts from early and late steering columns. You can end up with more of a mess than you starter with. Trust me.

 

It will NOT work as it's 4WD only and composed of two separate pieces.

The upper steering shaft (3524 - 32 5/16" long) connects to the lower steering shaft and coupler assy (3B676) with a 7/16" bolt and nut.

1965/66 F100/250 2WD one piece steering shaft without P/S is 35 5/8" long. The one piece shaft for 1966 F100/250 2WD with Bendix P/S is 34 5/16" long. P/S wasn't available for 1965 F100/250 2WD's.

1976/77 F250 4WD pic: A/T is similar to M/T: