Distinquishing Alkyd From Acrylic Enamel
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Distinquishing Alkyd From Acrylic Enamel
How does one determine whether an existing paint is alkyd vs. acrylic enamel? I have an older horse trailer with red paint that no matter how much you wax, it quickly becomes dull from exposure. The amount of red that comes off when waxing, leads me to believe this is either a very cheap enamel or is alkyd based.
Any guesses from the gurus?
Furthermore, if it is alkyd, are there precautions to note before repainting it using acrylic enamel?
Thanks all.
Any guesses from the gurus?
Furthermore, if it is alkyd, are there precautions to note before repainting it using acrylic enamel?
Thanks all.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Apr 3, 2003 at 05:40 PM.
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Distinquishing Alkyd From Acrylic Enamel
What you are experiencing is called oxidization. The paint has broken down. I'm refering to the outer protective layer that gioves paint its shine. The 2 types of paint you mentioned will experience this. This is the reason base coat clear coat system was devloped. UV rays and industrial fallout take its toll on the paint surface. No polishing will return the surface to its original condition. I would argue that it is in fact not good to wax at this point. The paint has no protective layer and now is removed when you rub it. That means that the surface is porous. Wax then, is being sucked up into the paint. This is not a good condition if you want to refinish. Either paint it or live with the paint as it is.
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Distinquishing Alkyd From Acrylic Enamel
cid,
Thanks for the reply. Hate to see it looking so shabby, but on the other hand, it is tough to justify the expense and effort to repaint an old rig like this - the horse could care less.
Meanwhile, the local CO-OP store features gallon cans of enamal specifically for agricultural implements - tractors, combines and similar equipment. The price is right - $19.99/gal and it can be sprayed according to the label. Have any of you farmers out there had any experience with this type paint, specifically spraying it?
Thanks for the reply. Hate to see it looking so shabby, but on the other hand, it is tough to justify the expense and effort to repaint an old rig like this - the horse could care less.
Meanwhile, the local CO-OP store features gallon cans of enamal specifically for agricultural implements - tractors, combines and similar equipment. The price is right - $19.99/gal and it can be sprayed according to the label. Have any of you farmers out there had any experience with this type paint, specifically spraying it?
Last edited by aerocolorado; Apr 8, 2003 at 03:05 PM.
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Distinquishing Alkyd From Acrylic Enamel
I think thats a good idea. I got 2 horses and many of the guys use NAPA paint. NAPA makes a urethane thats marketed as an automotive paint. Compared to other brand name paint its a really good deal. The type of paint you are thinking about is not aurethane but more of a Tremclade enamel type of paint. There is nothing wrong with that. Just keep in mind you dont get the gloss or flow. Being a horse trailer I think thats OK. I think you would be really happy with the results if you has a good gun to spray it with. That makes a big difference.
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Update for reference purposes:
I shot the trailer with the $19.99 paint (Van Sickle, super premium) and added a hardener agent that was recommended by the dealer, thinned per manufacturer recommendation with VM&P Naptha.
Blow me away! The results were simply fantastic! This came out better than any of the expensive automotive paints I've used in the past. It flows nicely, not as prone to running, excellent coverage and it sets up in the hardest, glossiest sheen I've ever seen. It must be a urethane based hardener because it is HARD! You can't even scratch it with a wire brush.
I did minimal surface prep, just going over it with a small sander and 200 grit paper to rough up the oxidation. Wiped down with rag and mineral spirits to remove the dust and that was it. This paint hides all the sanding marks. I wasn't about to spend hours and hours sanding a 16 year old horse trailer. Even previous, deep scratches in the existing paint are now difficult to find.
Once the hardener is added, there is only a 24 hour pot life. Clean eveything immediately because when it sets up it bonds like glue.
I shot the trailer with the $19.99 paint (Van Sickle, super premium) and added a hardener agent that was recommended by the dealer, thinned per manufacturer recommendation with VM&P Naptha.
Blow me away! The results were simply fantastic! This came out better than any of the expensive automotive paints I've used in the past. It flows nicely, not as prone to running, excellent coverage and it sets up in the hardest, glossiest sheen I've ever seen. It must be a urethane based hardener because it is HARD! You can't even scratch it with a wire brush.
I did minimal surface prep, just going over it with a small sander and 200 grit paper to rough up the oxidation. Wiped down with rag and mineral spirits to remove the dust and that was it. This paint hides all the sanding marks. I wasn't about to spend hours and hours sanding a 16 year old horse trailer. Even previous, deep scratches in the existing paint are now difficult to find.
Once the hardener is added, there is only a 24 hour pot life. Clean eveything immediately because when it sets up it bonds like glue.
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