residual valve placement?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
residual valve placement?
75 F250, doing a rear disc conversion, and wondered where should I install a 2 lb. residual valve in the system?
Between mstr. and proportioning valve?
after p. valve?
Between mstr. and proportioning valve?
after p. valve?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
The 2lb'ers should go between the prop valve and the front calipers. The 10 lb'er goes between the prop valve and line to the rear caliper.
If still in doubt, contact Stainless Steel Brakes or Masterpower Brakes.
If still in doubt, contact Stainless Steel Brakes or Masterpower Brakes.
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Lead Driver
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From: Near Los Angeles
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I would install the RV AFTER the prop valve.
Exactly where is up to you as you have pretty much the entire length of the truck to place it. Maybe mid-way where the fuel line break is located.
Josh
Exactly where is up to you as you have pretty much the entire length of the truck to place it. Maybe mid-way where the fuel line break is located.
Josh
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Interesting clarification: called ABS power brake, and they said the Caddy cals need that pressure to adjust properly, and it does not create a drag.
That could be another reason so many say these calipers don't adjust.
"Ya kayn't ... the manufacturer."
That could be another reason so many say these calipers don't adjust.
"Ya kayn't ... the manufacturer."
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
My bad.
I'll correct myself on the 10 lb RPV cuz I shouldda not relied on my memory (I was at work ya know?).. 10 lb'ers are only used with drum brakes. They'll all be 2 lb'ers with 4 wheel discs.. After further review, I don't think you need them unless you're building a street rod with the MC mounted low.
Below is a pic from the Speedway Motors catalog. In contrast however, I would install the rear valve after the proportioning valve.
I'll correct myself on the 10 lb RPV cuz I shouldda not relied on my memory (I was at work ya know?).. 10 lb'ers are only used with drum brakes. They'll all be 2 lb'ers with 4 wheel discs.. After further review, I don't think you need them unless you're building a street rod with the MC mounted low.
Below is a pic from the Speedway Motors catalog. In contrast however, I would install the rear valve after the proportioning valve.
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I would question why GM/ Cadillac felt the need to utilize RV's for disk brakes.
If they didn't install them from the factory, I would question why an aftermarket supplier is recommending them.
Keep in mind, calipers BY DESIGN are always in contact with the rotor. They only contract when pressure is released and also the slight run-out of the rotor (no matter how well a rotor is turned it has some run-out) also pushing.
I personally wouldn't install it. But if it wasn't a hassle it might make a fun experiment to see what difference it made.
If anything, I could see excessive drag at first, but eventually once the self-adjust begins to slacken it would eventually start making up the difference.
Josh
If they didn't install them from the factory, I would question why an aftermarket supplier is recommending them.
Keep in mind, calipers BY DESIGN are always in contact with the rotor. They only contract when pressure is released and also the slight run-out of the rotor (no matter how well a rotor is turned it has some run-out) also pushing.
I personally wouldn't install it. But if it wasn't a hassle it might make a fun experiment to see what difference it made.
If anything, I could see excessive drag at first, but eventually once the self-adjust begins to slacken it would eventually start making up the difference.
Josh
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I am getting a bit confused though. I think I will install w/o the rv and see what happens. If I have probs keeping a pedal, or the adjusters don't work, then I can splice the 2 lb in. If that isn't enough, then I'll go with the 10 lb.
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