Yeah, it's normal for it to run rough if you had the oil system open... it did for me. Give it some time... it'll probably take a few drives to clear it out. But if your HPOP was bad (as in shot... not capable of powering your truck), your truck wouldn't be running now. Our trucks can run on quite a lack of pressure, just not well so even if your pump was weak, it'd still run... but your HPOP sure aren't shot! When my IPR was stuck, the truck ran, but it lagged when I got on it... it was stuck at about 11% duty cycle. When you get AE, watch your ICP duty cycle and the ICP Sensor pressure. When you get on the pedal, you should see 2000PSI+... let us know what you find!

 

When you pull the HPOP lines, it gets air in them that has to be pushed out before it will run smoothly. If you will run the RPMs up to about 2k for a little while it will help. Others have said that you need to drive for about 100 miles to get it all out.

 

I thought I had remembered that from the last time I changed my HPOP. Thanks guys.
Yeah how about that stealership said I had 0 pressure and needed to change my HPOP for around $1500. Really the only money I am out at this point is the tow bills and I will get at least one of those backfrom my insurance. Oh and the $160 I gave them to tell me that my HPOP is junk. I turned it off while I went to town and got some things came back and started it again seemed like it might have taken a couple extra cranks to start but nothin serious I hope.
So what do you all think a new IPR or get the rebuild kit?? This is my means of income (selfemployed) and I dont want this thing craping on me again. Just wondering if anyone has been running on a rebuilt IPR for awhile.
thanks again
Joe

 

I just rebuilt mine... that's what it is. Taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then replacing the O-rings, solenoid nut, and solenoid spacer. The rebuild kit consists off all those parts I just mentioned. So far, my truck has be great! It's nice to have that spunk back. A new IPR costs $200 (depending on where you get it from... avoid the dealer, try Clay) and the O-ring kit is $30. You could just buy an IPR and keep it as a spare like we do with the CPS. When you get AE, you'll know whether you should get another IPR, or keep plugging along with yours. My truck has 295K and it's still got the original IPR in it. I've also heard of the big electrical connections on the firewall can get dirty and cause problems. You just have to clean them out... but it looks like you may have solved your problem. Don't worry about the lengthy starts... mine took awhile before it started like normal again.

 

I towed my truck to the dealership, and for $70 they told me the IPR and the HPOP were bad and had to be replaced. I retreived my truck and bought a new IPR from Clay, for just over $200 with priority shipping. So far the truck is running good with a little hiccup a few days ago. I attributed that to maybe some air in the lines. So far it's been good. I know what I'd do in your shoes, but I'm not you either.

 

I hear ya new IPR.

Your dealership doesnt sound as bad as mine. $160 it cost me for the same diagnosis.
Oh well I should have that AE tomorrow and if I can figure out how to use it should have it on tomorrow evening sometime.

 

Call Clay! He'll help ya... here's a bit of info that'll help you:

AEFAQ

But when you get AE, you should be seeing around 11% duty cycle and 500PSI at idle. When you get on the truck (you have to drive it to read right), you should get pressure readings of more than 2000PSI. As far as the duty cycle goes, I think it varies... mine only read 36% while making 2500PSI. It seemed low, but i was still making adequate pressure. Joey and Clay said it could read up to 50% or something like that... but just call Clay when you do and he'll get you started. I'm still learning as well...

 

My dealership has been pretty decent with me. I buy a lot of misc stuff from them that really isn't worth having it shipped. If your going to replace the IPR again, why don't you rebuild the fuel bowl. Cheap kit from Guzzle and really makes sense considering the problems guys have with them, eventually. It also makes the changeout much easier.

 

Gotta Link for that kit?

 

very nice Thank you for that!!!

 

Clay's got it: Riffraff Diesel: Complete Fuel Bowl Seal Kit

Here's the IPR rebuild kit: Riffraff Diesel: IPR Re-Seal kit

Check out his site... he's got PLENTY of stuff on there! Also, consider getting one of his IH CPS's. He's got the original black IH sensors which are actually better than the new ones.

 

One thing I found out while rebuilding my IPR was that instead of flooding the valley with oil, get a plastic plug ready and as soon as the IPR comes out, stick the plug in there. There's hardly ANY mess and if you stuck a rag down in there when you did it, you'll be almost spotless. I did this and didn't have to refill my reservoir (I don't think I ever did that). I can get the dimensions of the plug if you need it... a cork would work too.

 

Another way to prevent the mess is to use a transfer pump to remove the oil from the reservoir. I got my pump for about $10 at the autoparts house. It looks like a small tire pump with hose attachments on each end. The tube that came with the pump was too big to go down in the plug hole for the reservoir, so I got about a foot of 3/8 copper water pipe and used a small hose clamp to clamp it into the tube. The copper line would just fit inside the hole. I pumped it into an empty oil container and then when I needed to put it back, I just reversed the process.

 

I can sell you a OEM one F81Z9C968AB

 

Well no AE today hopefully will be here tomorrow.