Check out your UVCH's (Under-Valve-Cover-Harness) as well. These have been known to come loose and that would certainly cause your truck to quit.

I'm just rambling, though... I guess you have to see if your HPOP is putting out pressure first. On my truck when the IPR was sticking, it'd hardly make 20PSI while cranking. After cleaning out the IPR, it spikes at about 2000PSI while cranking.

 

Not sure what you mean by the finiky response. Dont think I said anything about that. I did put a new cps on and did not notice anything wrong with the wires or plug but was not really looking at it to close and in kind of a hurry on the side of a 70mph hwy. The IDM was replaced just a few months ago like 5 months tops I am thinking along with Injectors, plugs, starter, etc etc etc.

 

I was looking through Pockets "no start" thread and noticed something was mentioned about the wires running along one of the heads. What are these all about. I know the ones under the cover where supposed to all be replaced when I had my injectors done if that is what we are talking about.

My bad I did not see Jonathans last post on the 4th page so my question was answered before I asked it I guess

Guess it would not hurt to yank out the IPR and clean it up while I am waiting on the AE. HMMMM

thanks Jonathan

 

Well not only did they leave a wire off the starter relay but some oil under the truck this morning lead to a disconnected high pressure line on the driverside head. Looks like a quick connect fitting. Right??

 

The only place it's a quick-connect is on the HPOP side of the lines... I'm almost positive! I don't know why they'd isolate the pump to test it unless an injector is stuck open (I remember Joey saying something about that). Something's fishy... I wonder what else is loose?

 

Wow so u think they might thread into the head

 

Nope it was a quick connect at the head also.

Now I started to take the IPR out. It looks like where the wire connects to the IPR got hot or something. The rubber seals whre the wire connects in looks melted or somthing as well as where the wires actually go into the connector looks soft (gray in color). The other seal is brown in color. If that makes sense. Both almost looks like some kind of solvent might have compromised them. Either that or excesive heat not sure.

Has anyone seen this before???

 

I'm sure there'd have to be some discoloring in there... but I'm curious about your truck because at 294K, my rubber seals still had their color. But diesels do get hotter than gassers just because diesel is ignited using heat of compression. I'd say get your IPR cleaned out and put new O-rings on it... you get what you can an "IPR Rebuild Kit" from Ford (or Clay or guzzle... depends on how fast you need it. In my case, I had to have it NOW). It consists of three O-rings and a new solenoid nut and spacer. Try that out... I don't know if it's gonna fix it, though. It's probably gonna take AE to figure it out. Might I suggest that while you're waiting for AE to get a late-99 to '01 PCM. They provide more data and allow AE to perform more complex tests... the ones I'm trying to do are injector related. I just bought a PCM... it has yet to get here. If you're interested, I can tell you what I was told by Jody at DP-Tuner about which one to get.

 

Considering what's at stake and the cost of it, if I had any doubts about the wiring connector, I would get a new pigtail harness from ford. I've replaced some and they don't cost much from your local ford dealer. My .02

 

I'll argue with that assertion in a friendly sort of way.
They take twice as long to come up to operating temperature as a gas engine and the exhaust manifolds/pipes/mufflers on a gasser rust out LONG before a diesel exhaust system does.
Also the oil change interval on a gasser is half that of a diesel. Literally.
On the VW/Audi's that I work on the OCI for a gasser is 5k and the TDI is 10k using the 505.01 spec oil.
Put them to work at WOT and yes they will heat up good and really tax the cooling system.


OFF.

 

Got ya, Sir...

I stand corrected. I know they take longer to warm up, but I know when I stick my head under the hood of my truck, it's always hotter than I ever felt under the hood of a gasser. Also, I had always assumed that since you have to watch EGT's with a diesel, it meant they run hotter, but I've just recently realized it's due to back pressure from the turbo. My mistake and I apologize... thanks for the correction! I need to watch what I say. Oh well... but I don know that diesels supposedly harder on stuff heat-wise.

 

Has anyone fabricated the dedicated IPR removal wrench as described on Kim Lux's web page for removing and installing the IPR?
New Page 0

If not, what are you using to R & R the IPR?

Pop

 

I didn't fabricate the tool... I was able to get enough of a bite on the IPR with a deep socket even though though the socket wasn't set all the way on the IPR.

 

I was just wondering what would cause the wire connecton to heat up?? Stuck IPR maybe? Then again. Itprobably isn't the heat maybe some kind of solvent or something cause the rubber on the plug still seems a little soft

 

Yes i will take all the info i can get
thanks