I just bought one yesterday afternoon... I got it for $125. Just go on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market. Alot of guys had said that the PMT1 and PMT2 PCM's are the best ones. However, I talked to Jody and told him that for now, the truck is stock and all I want is to get the most out of AE and to get a PCM that has shifts better that the e99 PCM I already had. The e99's aren't known for their incredible shift patterns at all! Mine is really bad... it's got an awful lag between 2nd and 3rd, almost like it goes into neutral and then it kicks into 3rd. But anyways, Jody told me that the PMT's are really bad on transmissions... I guess that explains the odd patterns I've seen where some guys couldn't keep a transmission in their trucks and others have had the same transmission for 300K and pull with it on a regular basis. Jody said I should try to look for an NVK4... it comes outta a 2000 truck. He said the shifts are better than what I've got now and this particular model has the least bugs outta all the ones so far.

Just go on car-part and start a search. Just make sure that you search as a 2000 model year truck. Don't enter your zip... the part you're looking for will come up as an "Engine Computer". Then, it'll come up with a list of PCM's... under 7.3L, you want to click the one with the code "XC3F-BF". There will be several suppliers there. Don't even try emailing... I only got one to reply. You need to call them. When you call, ask them to verify the numbers because some of those guys have PCM's that will work, but aren't the desired one. Just call a few of them. I started with the cheapest... but the first few on that list don't have them. If you look at the description, a couple will actually have the code in the description. Try those... the other ones were different when I called. Some of them will ask for a stock number, some will ask for what year of truck you have. If they do, just tell the, you have a 2000 because they may fuss at you about it if you don't... it's the liability thing I think. Anyways, good luck! This may be a good way to determine if you've got a bad PCM. Also, you might could upgrade to an IDM-120 while you're at it. Another way to find out if that's bad as well. On the e99, we have the IDM-110's. The difference is the voltage to each injector... 110V versus 120V. Supposedly, it makes for slightly quicker starts and better actuation. Then, if that isn't the case, than you can use the old one as a spare and try the 140V IDM mod and see if you like it or not (what I plan on doing). What it is is you replace a resistor inside the IDM to make it put out 140V. I think you can imagine what it does... anyways, sorry for getting off track, but I'd go for the PCM if you plan on using AE. That way, you can get the most outta AE. Call Jody or Clay and they'll explain it to you... if you call Jody, make sure to go to "Custom Tuning", the first item on the phone tree.

Fellas, correct me if I either misstated something, or I failed to add something.

 

Oh yeah, your truck may be different from mine... is it a 4x4 auto? If not, then call Jody and ask which PCM is ideal... the NVK4 is in the DPC-422 family, or what Jody says the PCM must be in to work in my truck.

 

Just go to Napa and get one deep enough to do the job, for a 20 dollar bill. All the other sockets I tried wouldn't let the rod down far enough to do that mod anyway. I tried every outfit in town. Incidentally, if you need one, I'll loan you mine if your not in too much of a hurry. As a matter of fact, I have to go to the Post office tomorrow morning, and I can put it in the small Priority box and you would prolly have it tuesday or wed. If you do R R the IPR, remove the fuel bowl and do the rebuild with Guzzle's kit, it makes removing the IPR so much easier.

 

Thanks, Wayne, for the offer, but I don't need one. My engine's running fine!

I just thought I'd get an idea of what I might need, should I ever need it.

Tools I got! For specialized, one-off tools, I'd like to be prepared in advance.

Again, thanks for your kind offer!

Pop

 

Your more than welcome, Marv!

 

That sounds good i will make something up to do the job. If there is not one deep enough I thought about welding a shallow to a deep socket.
I hope i can figure this out before next weekend i wa all ready to some hiking or kyaking.

 

Well I got a real good pic of that connector on the IPR side where that seal is all messed up but it is on this damn DROIDX and I am trying to figure out how to get it to my comp. Not real good reception here at the house so I am trying to hook it to the comp. I got it in some HP photo share thing but cant figure out how to get it to my pictures.
Will keep trying

 

Not sure if I got it on there but I finally got it over here where I can try to post it up

 

Very nice now what caused this???? And could this be my problem??

 

Well I think I F'ed up the IPR. I was going to take it apart to have a look and the only thing I can think I did was while removing the guide (internal screw) I must have messed up some of the upper threads with the blade of the screw driver because I was unable to get it to come all the way out and I messed up the screw so the driver does not have anything to catch on now. I doesnt seem like the pilpot valve wants to thread back in there real easy either. and the pilot valve is sticking so I gess i will try to deal with that and then try to get it back together and see what happens

 

Well, just don't do what I did and that was try to get the screw outta the wrong piece. Make sure what you're screwing is in the end of the main IPR body, not the other one. Check the instructions again... it was posted here.

 

Oh I did , and I got it abpart. I think it will be alright.
I was thiking I was going to have to take the wrong screw out as well but the instructions said a big flat screw driver and the one i was looking at first would take a little one. Anyway I figured it out and got it apart and cleand up. Now just have to get it back to gether.
Still dont know what would do that to the plug though. Only thing I can think is awhile back the small IPR nut rubbed a slit in one of my fuel lines and cause a leak, and my filter top sprung a pretty good leak (bad O ring) maybe some fuel got in there and turned that seal into gum.

 

So is Jody at car parts. Com??

 

Oh no... sorry for not clarifying. Jody is from DP-Tuner... since he specializes in the 7.3L when it comes to tunes (at least, I think... the 7.3L is the only one he actually makes a whole chip for). He knows the PCM's inside and out. Just go to DP-Tuner and on the contacts page, call the first number, not technical support. That goes to James and he'll just send you to Jody. When you call the first number, select "custom tuning" and that should take you to Jody. I don't know if you have the same specs as my truck, but if not, then call Jody. He'll get you on the right track.

 

Well I got the IPR back together and put it on. Filled up the HPOP pluged the other HP line back into the passenger head this time ( they must have just set them on there and the stealership) checked the fuses got in and cranked it for about 5-6 seconds and it fired up. Seems like it is not ideling as smooth as it did but could that be from the HPOP oil change? I have left it ideling for awhile now. Do I need to let it idle for awhile or dirve it for awhile.
It did seem like the pilot valve in the IPR was stuck would that cause it to just die going up the road. If that is the case I need to get the new O rings and nut at the very least. Thinking about just putting a new IPR on if that was the problem what da ya think????