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I read extensively on these forums and on other sites to I.D. my 2 Ford small blocks. However, there are some inconsistencies in the numbers I need help with.
The first engine is in the truck and will be pulled out. The casting number isn't on a "flat" but "stacked" around an angled casting point behind the starter. The engine number is E0AE over D3C. I've been advised this is a 1980 small block from an 1981 LTD. There is a large "80" on a cast tab between cyl's 3 & 4 and "1A6" (1AG) between what look like screw heads near the rear edge of the block near the bell housing bolt tabs.
The engine on my build stand in the barn has the weird casting number. I know it's a '79. The casting number "D9 E-6015-E3A" is on a flat behind the starter. The auto line letter is missing - just "D9" (79) - blank space - "E". The "E3A" is an unknown to me. There is "9D6" (9DG?) between what look like screw heads on the flat under the casting number.
The bore looks like 4.0 (3.995 with dirt) and I know I'll have to dial indicate the stroke to determine C.I.D. as the blocks could go 289 to 351 or even more. The cross hatched intake and cast iron exhaust manifolds are from a later mustang. I'll run the numbers on the heads and crank when I get to them.
Unfortunately casting numbers aren't much help when identifying an engine, you first have to visually determine the family and then you can use the casting numbers to nail down the year the mold was created and in come cases what engine subgroup the part belongs to. If possible post up a couple pics of the engines from the front, the water inlet location, intake width, shape of the heads, and timing cover can be used to ID the motor.
i have an E0AE block as well.... E= 1980's, 0=1980, A= full size family, E=Engine component
the block design's last revision was in 1980, and was designed for a full size car/truck.
The heads had an E3 on them so i can only assume my motor is an '83.
I can't help much without more to go on, as Paul said, pics would help. However, I can offer this: On both blocks, the cast number between what look like screw heads is the date the block was cast. The first one you list was cast on January 6th, 1981.
The second one was cast on April 6th, 1979.
Assuming these are both 302s, you could have in incompatibility issue with imbalance if you try to interchange flywheels or harmonic balancers between these engines. 1981 was the year of the changeover from 28oz. imbalance to 50oz. so it's possible that your 1981 motor is 50oz. However, if it's actually a 351W then it's 28oz. as the imbalance factor wasn't ever changed of the 351W.
They wouldn't be 289 engines since 1967 was the last year for the 289. (But you probably already knew that...)
Here's one way to tell the difference between a 302 and a 351W:
Excellent info TigerDan....my thoughts were mixed up in another thread but that cleared up the imbalance differences...subscribing out of curiosity, love decoding casting numbers.
I didn't know any of that info. I love learning new stuff! I know very little about Fords. I was a GM guy until they replaced the "bow tie" with the capital "O".
I won't be swapping parts from one engine to the other so no problem there. Good to know if I have to get into an 80's engine (although the only good things I remember from the 80's are my marriage, Regan and the death of disco).
Checked the pump mounts and it looks like I have 302's, although I suspect they may have been stroked. I'll borrow a dial indicator to check for sure.
I wish I could afford the real expensive parts, but I just can't. I lust after the AFR heads! I do know how to machine and polish so I'll just have to get the most out of what I've got. I just don't want to match up the wrong stuff from the bone yards.
A dial gauge isn't suitable to measure the stroke, as they typically have a range of only an inch, or rarely, two. Vernier calipers or a simple measuring tape or rule will give a pretty good result. A 302 has a 3" stroke, a 351 is 3-1/2".
I use a combination square to get a rough idea of depth at BDC then I put what ever extension on my dial indicator I need. I have a 12 inch base on it and I zero it with the regular 1 inch extension to the block / cylinder face. After that, I use either the 3 or 4 inch extension. You're right - a digital vernier caliper works pretty well too!
I have a small block ford 302 or 351, in my formula boat, went to replace water pump and finally found the casting numbers! Unfortunately I can't figure out the difference in the motors because there is a j on the 3rd digit, it is C8JE or C8JC, I'm new at this and will try to download a picture, the J is really throwing me off! Hard to get parts if I can't determine what it is! Tia
It kind of looks like C9JE to me, what are the other numbers?
I'm guessing 6059, which indicate a timing cover.
"J" signifies industrial or marine use. If this is a timing cover, that makes sense as Ford made cast iron ones for marine use.
302 and 351W engines used the same timing cover however, so this part doesn't help identify which engine this is.
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