2000 Expy 5.4. 150K+.

I was replacing plug/coil #4 and removed the firewall starter solenoid/relay wiring to get in from the side, but when it came time to put everything back together, of course I had forgotten how the wiring worked! The battery side is obvious with the double lead, but the starter/alt side I'm not sure about. I have a heavy gauge red cable and another black, both with leads meant for the larger posts on the solenoid. The black connects to the alternator and the red goes into the firewall. Do they go on different posts or the same? Here's a shot with both of them on the lower post.

Right now I'm only getting a click from the solenoid when I try to crank the engine.

When I put the wiring back the first time I had the black cable up on the top post and the red on the bottom. The engine cranked and turned over but then I stopped it after a few seconds and now it won't crank at all. If this was the wrong wire routing could it have messed a component up?

Just tried jumping the two posts with the ignition on and heard the other solenoid on the starter click, but that was it.

FYI Battery is registering fully charged on the dash gauge and on a trickle charger. The running and cabin lights do cut out when I try to crank it (key to start position). But the headlights remain strong. Starter relay fuse (#21) is intact.

Any advice greatly appreciated!

 

Found the correct wire routing on this forum via a google image search.

So now I understand that both red and black cables should be on the same post.

However, what would prevent the starter from cranking? Could I have damaged something with the miswiring?

Thanks. This is a great forum and I'm glad to have found it.

 

Stater went bad as my burns out when I misconnect black wire (alternator) to opposite post of the relay/solenoid.

 

Please tell me what it was I have the exact problem on my 02 navigator I went and changed a plug hooked wires up just like you and it started up once I turned it off one click everytime

 

ttt

I'm having the same issue with my 99 lightning. Has anyone solved the problem yet? I've replaced the solenoid, starter, battery and wiring harness and I get nothing. It was able to crank one time right after I put the new starter in. It was just enough to get me home and now it won't start. Just one click.

however when I did get it to start I got a bad smell with some smoke. When I got home I saw the wiring harness insulation was melted all over the place. So I replaced it and still I get nothing. I can't even jump the solenoid on the firewall with a screwdriver. Nothing happens. I do get some spark when I ground the bottom post to the firewall. But the starter doesn't turn over. Just a lot of sparks.

 

Yeah since it's +12v there I wouldn't do that anymore unless you want to burn up another harness to blow up your battery. Have you tried starting it in neutral?

 

I have. I moved the shifter quite a few times. I'm trying to look for a bad ground or something now.

When I attach the batter terminals to the actual battery I don't even have that little bit of spark you get when you connect the battery.

 

What does the "I" mean on the starter solenoid? My factory one didn't even have a post where this one is located. It's a small post on the left side.

 

On some applications a wire runs from the "I" to the ignition coil to power it during the starting process.

 

That spark or snap that occurs when connecting a battery is because something electrical is on or running. Interior light, power accesspry or ignition or .....

When that happens a voltage spike is induced into the system. The electronic systems have protection built in for spikes and on some basis when the spike occurs you are testing the protection. The same thing is happening when you "ground the bottom post to the firewall."

In the world called perfect turning off everything so a spike or spark does not occur is the desired result. Can a system survive those kinds of actions? Sure and most of the time the systems do. However in a oft quoted saying, You are playing with fire. Those that play with fire run a greater chance of getting burned.

Use test equipment, wiring diagrams or take the vehicle to a person that has those skills and resources. The original poster fixed his issue when he discovered he incorrectly connected wires. After he discovered the correct routing the engine started. Not saying this is your issue and known the correct wiring is paramount. No one expects any one to know all of the wiring and for that reason a wiring diagram was made. Because mis-wiring ca damage other electrical parts in addition to not solving the original concern.

Or you can continue to attempt repairs with out the resources.

>>>>>>>>>Action

 

I tried using the "I" instead and didn't get anything. Not even a click from the solenoid

 

I ended up finding some diagrams and from what I can tell I have everything in the correct place. I'm out of town until Wednesday visiting my grandmother but I'll go over everything once I'm back home.

 

It's an output, not an input. The "I" terminal becomes energized when the solenoid engages.

 

Only cus I am a bit wound to tight, it is a relay not a solenoid.

>>>>>>>>>>Action