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'99 V10 SD. Won't turn over. Solenoid clicks one time per key turn. Have checked grounds, hot wired the I terminal and it makes the solenoid click.
Cannot jump the solenoid from hot battery post on solenoid to other post (small red wire leading to starter). No arcing or spark. Solenoid is relatively new as is the starter. Have checked ALL fuses (dash and engine compartment)
I am at a loss. Thoughts??? Please.
Shouldn't it be a large wire going from the solenoid to the starter? Like the same size as the supply wire from the battery to the solenoid? The small wire on the solenoid should be the 'trigger'.
In the past, if the solenoid only clicks it was a voltage problem. Take both your battery and started to have them tested. I am thinking battery is the problem.
From the positive post on the battery, there are two feeds - one to the solenoid and one directly to the starter. The small red wire goes directly from the solenoid to the solenoid sitting on the starter. I don't think this one is carrying current from the solenoid to the starter mechanism(s). No current is passing thru' the solenoid to that contact post.
You should be able to jump the two larger posts of the solenoid and the starter spin. There should be some sparkage when doing it, if just arcing it across with a screwdriver say. If there isn't then either something isn't hooked up right or dirty/bad grounds and connections. If you arc across the posts and it starts, it's your solenoid. If you arc across the posts and it doesn't spin. It's your starter. Assuming all connections are proper and good.
Check the connections at the starter well they get all corroded up. Also the ground to the block usually near there too.
On your starter relay there are two big posts and the one little 'trigger' wire that is the signal to the truck. If you jump the two big ones it should activate the starter. If you're getting no spark/arc test for voltage on the solenoid at the supply post from the battery. At this age of a truck often battery cables and ground wires go bad from corrosion and often the end that you see to make the connection looks ok but the wire itself somewhere along the line is no good anymore. So it's important to test with atleast a test light and preferably a multimeter, not just visually check the ends.
Have you measured the voltage to the solenoid? Also, I would inspect the solenoid itself. I bought a reman for a 2004, installed it and got the same result. When I inspected it, I found some hairline fractures in the solenoid housing. Took it back to O'Riellys and it tested bad. Exchanged it for another one and all was right in the world.
Voltage drop test...Google it... fast simple trouble shooting method.
Battery(ies) load tests OK=Pass
Cables and end terminals have low resistance and visually inspect ok and tight =Pass. Physically pull the battery terms and clean. They can look clean yet have verdigris between it and the battery tower.
All grounds and positives clean and tight...yes...=pass
Turn Key, solenoid has VDC on both sides of solenoid, yes = bad starter, no=bad solenoid
Jump full system VDC (using caution and good cables) directly to Stater. Should spin. No spin bad starter.
Just did a 7.3 where the cheap chineasium starter was locked up tight. Found it in 10 minutes. While I was in there I removed all cables and re-terminated and cleaned everything. Truck turns over fast. Spend the $ on a good rebuild or new USA!
Ignition has nothing to do with this if the truck isnt cranking. Cranking with no start then yes ignition is suspect.
Measure voltage from battery to solenoid. I had a bad positive lead that looked like it was in excellent condition.
Have someone crank the truck while you measure voltage going in and out the solenoid. Make sure the ground from the battery is in very good condition.
I'd likely just replace the starter solenoid with a quality motorcraft unit. Don't cheap out on solenoids. I've had bad solenoids right out of the box.
07-14-2016, 10:20 AM
