HELP, I've broken down in the woods!!
Hi all, I’m in a unique situation, even for this forum, and can really use some expert help!
I’m stranded on BLM land in Nevada, 30 miles from Battle Mountain. I have a 98 Ford E350 Dually R/ABS only ,Cutaway Van. It has a Dana 70-2U. I’m pulling a travel trailer with it. I also have a dirt bike I can use to get back and forth to town with.
To make matters even more challenging, I have very poor cell service and just as poor internet service (I’m using a Wilson amplifier and antenna and I’m thankful for any wireless service at all) How slow, It took an hour just to register on this forum slow, and I get "Timed Out" when trying to search the site.
Anyway, the brakes started feeling like they were not grabbing ,so I went to check under the truck and noticed gear oil leaking from between the backing plate and the drum. I’m pretty handi and carry jack stands and jacks + all my tools. I pulled the rear tires and drum and the brakes are covered in gear oil.
I checked the oil level in the diff (added about 8 oz to top it off.) There is a NAPA in town but they don’t seem to on the ball, but they are the only game in town. I called them about a replacement axle seal for a D70 and they said they will have to call Ford in the morning, because they don’t know what I’m talking about. They kept referring to the pinion seal and ring size.
Question, since NAPA does not know what I’m talking about, can anyone tell me what seal I need to replace, perhaps a part number NAPA can reference?
Also, I’ve replaced leaf springs, rotors, alternators, starters etc, but have never removed the hub on any rear-end, so it all seems very mysterious to me. Especially while in the woods with animals watching

Can anyone point me to a “how to” or 'Talk me down", on the Dana 70 axle seal replacement. Are there any special tools I need to order? What is the bearing pre-load torque? I’m a little apprehensive about pulling the cover off of the hub, till I have a better idea about part availability. What size socket do I need for the axle nut?
I’m a bit nervous about performing this in the woods, but anytime I’ve had work done while on the road I’ve always had to redo it once I returned home. Of course, I’ll replace the brake shoes and while I’m at it , and the brake cylinders (I’ve been meaning to do that anyway)
Anyway, I’m remaining calm; I have a week before I need to be anywhere. I’m camped in a nice place, and trying to make the best of it. I’m hopeful, that with your help I can get through this and back on the road again.
Thank so very much…..
Lost in place
Can anyone tell me the part number for the Spindle Nut remover or where I can have one overnighted to me

1998 E350 Dualy D70-2U
With this iffy internet connection I get timed-out when trying the surf function.
And does anyone have a torque spec for the old bearing

I'm sure all this information has been gone over many times before on this forum and that many members can change this seal out in their sleep, I would really like to hear from them.
Thanks for any help,
Michael
As has been suggested, the woods are not the best place to do this repair, you need to keep everything clean, jack and support the axle securely, and set the preload on the bearings. As long as you keep oil in the axle, you should be fine going home with it to do the repairs.
I contacted a NAPA in Winnemucca and the parts guy (John) knew exactly what I needed. Winnemucca is 100 miles from where I'm at now, Battle Mountain)
They have the spindle nut remover and a 2 9/16 socket (do I need both the 2 9/16 and the special spindle nut socket)
I'm packing up and heading the 100 miles right now. Where I'll do the repair I'm not sure (I'm 2,000 miles from home)
But, having the parts and tools is better than what I have now. Picked up some 75w-90 synth gear oil in case I need to top up. Hope I have better internet service in Winnemucca
I still need torque numbers on the bearing?
And what type of gear oil should I be putting in my 70-2U 1998 Dana (straight 90W synth, 75-90 limited slip synth?)
Thanks again, and further recommendations and advice would be a big help

Michael
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For refitting the bearing nut, the inner one should be torqued to 50ft.lbs. and then backed off and then hand tightened or torqued to 1ft.lbs. The outer one is then torqued to 160ft.lbs.
75w90 should be fine. If you have a limited slip diff then you would need a friction modifier. Maybe your door sticker code would tell that.
Last edited by Lazy K; Aug 21, 2010 at 12:48 PM. Reason: typo
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I've learned how easy it is to install the hub seal, and I was worried

NAPA had everything I needed, John came out to check on my progress and to make sure the truck didn't crush me. I started at 2PM and in 5 hours I replaced the outer bearing, it looked a bit blued, inside looked fine.
Replaced the brakes and brake cylinders on both rear sides. replaced a brake line, Picked up some tools I needed, (flare wenches)
bleed the brakes and topped up the gear oil. I also picked up a set of bearings, and seals for the other side.
The 2 9/16 socket was not needed, just the hub nut socket.
I'm going to take a shower and I'll be off to Northern California in the morning!
Thanks again for you encouragement!
Michael





