So the time is getting closer (a week) for the sas and i've decided to go with the matching 10.25 rear instead of using the dana 70 that i can get (but not for another month) and regear the dana 60 to match, as i now believe that the axles are 4.10 geared.

Anyway i've got 2 thing i'm planning on doing and need some insight on and i've got a question about something else that i'm thinking about doing that my dad brought up the the other day when i was talking with him about the upcoming swap.

First thing i want to do has to do with the 2 bottom ribs (between the pumpkin and tubes for support) and the uneven bottom. After thinking about i came to the idea that i could take some 1/4 plate form it to fit and tach weld it to the ribs then to the pumkin, then do the same to the bottom of the pumpkin to effectively make the bottom half of the pumpkin smooth like a 70U so as to eliminate the scooping effect that the ribs would do on smaller tires, this sound like a good idea? (note: I would seal the spaces between the tach welds with JB weld or something similar)

The second thing is weldin er' up, but i have all the info i need one that.

The one thing i thinking about is eliminating the rear drum brakes, now i say this because the drums are much more difficult to do verse the semi float that is currently one there, and this would eliminate the problem of packed mud in the drums, and there will be less weight, and the fact that the back brakes don't work anyway. Now what do you guys think of something like this for a comp rig only (boggs?)?

Anyone got some helpful info on these 2 things?

 

Your idea with the plates for the ribs to make the bottom smooth is good, if the truck does not see much rock action I would not use 1/4 plate, maybe some thing like 14 ga. or 1/8 inch, that would more than adiquate & less unsprung weight, (not that you would notice a pound or two, but in the mud less weight is better) on the other hand if your going to be on the rocks the 1/4 would be better but you better do more than tack it in place,

As for the rear brake elimination, I'd look into your class rules & see if you are required to have four wheel brakes, I'm trying to fit my truck in the street class & to do so you have to meet D.O.T reg. which (I think) reqires you to have a brake @ each wheel,
Your d-60 front should have daul piston calipers which should be plenty of brake, not to metion in 4wd you'll be stopping all four tires anyway,
If you can swing the no rear brake deal I'd look into building a mud guard that will protect your inner wheel bearing seal so the mud don't pack in & wreck the seal. Also give the truck plenty of test shots in a safe area after you remove the rear brakes to make sure there going to be able to shut you down properly,

I went with 1/2 ton calipers on all four corners to loose weight & have brakes on all four wheels,

 

for that rear end, if you go to www.dieselstop.com and go to the 94-97 forums, many people can point you in the right direction for disc braking that rear end.

 

someone used to make a disc conversion for the stelrings but the demand was so low that they discontinued. the great thing about the D70 is there are disc conversions aplenty b/c i would love to do that with mine

-cutts-

 

Doing the brakes on a Sterling is no more difficult than a semi floater, unlike a dana axle, the drums are outboard of the hub. Sure, rear discs would be nice. I recall an article on Pirate about 'em.
Super Duty stuff might be useable, but, you'd have to use S/D hubs(if they'll fit on a 97 and older axle, I haven't tried, and I sold my S/D... LOL) and rotors, and re-drill them to 8x6.5

 

actually i can't remember where i read it but the sd rear discs setup can be fairly easily adapted to the 10.25 rear, you just need the rotors off a front dana 60 (just the rotor and not the splined hubs), dang i wish i could remember who told me that so i could ask them if this is true.

As far as the class rules in my area they go by tire size and engine mods, and the turck can't be entered in the street classes as its not "technically" street legal (aka mud flaps and fender flairs), and the fact that it hasn't even been registered or safteyed, (but my dad can do that in about 5 minutes ). And to date in the boggs that i've been to i haven't read anything in the rules about having to have rear brakes (i know of a couple X-class guys that just have manual front discs).

82F100, so the rear drums can be taken off the same as a semi float (haven't worked with a stereling to much) on a sterling? Oh and as far as the plate size, i will just use what i have (about 4 4x6 sheets of either 1/4 or 3/16 steel) to save a bit.

Any other input?