352 2bbl Carb Trouble
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Cincinnati, OH
352 2bbl Carb Trouble
Been trying to get my new-to-me '65 F100 running good, and all is well except for some major hesitation when giving it gas. I researched some old threads and it sounded like the accelerator pump needed replaced. I took one out of an old carb I tried to rebuild a couple years ago, and put it in my 352 carb, but the same problem persists...
My main question is about that orange check valve - I know that the little tit is supposed to go in the hole, but is it supposed to stay fixed in there or is allowed to move in and out? I don't understand how it is supposed to work. The tit actually has a ridge on it near the umbrella part; is that supposed to be stuffed in the hole so the whole check valve stays in place? I just have the skinny part f the tit in the hole now, and when you take the pump and spring out the check valve will just fall out.
I also thought of replacing the vaccuum advance on the distributor to cure the problem...are those notorious for going bad after years of sitting or am I just wasting precious beer money?
My main question is about that orange check valve - I know that the little tit is supposed to go in the hole, but is it supposed to stay fixed in there or is allowed to move in and out? I don't understand how it is supposed to work. The tit actually has a ridge on it near the umbrella part; is that supposed to be stuffed in the hole so the whole check valve stays in place? I just have the skinny part f the tit in the hole now, and when you take the pump and spring out the check valve will just fall out.
I also thought of replacing the vaccuum advance on the distributor to cure the problem...are those notorious for going bad after years of sitting or am I just wasting precious beer money?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
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From: Southern Oregon
Been trying to get my new-to-me '65 F100 running good, and all is well except for some major hesitation when giving it gas. I researched some old threads and it sounded like the accelerator pump needed replaced. I took one out of an old carb I tried to rebuild a couple years ago, and put it in my 352 carb, but the same problem persists...
My main question is about that orange check valve - I know that the little tit is supposed to go in the hole, but is it supposed to stay fixed in there or is allowed to move in and out? I don't understand how it is supposed to work. The tit actually has a ridge on it near the umbrella part; is that supposed to be stuffed in the hole so the whole check valve stays in place? I just have the skinny part f the tit in the hole now, and when you take the pump and spring out the check valve will just fall out.
I also thought of replacing the vaccuum advance on the distributor to cure the problem...are those notorious for going bad after years of sitting or am I just wasting precious beer money?
My main question is about that orange check valve - I know that the little tit is supposed to go in the hole, but is it supposed to stay fixed in there or is allowed to move in and out? I don't understand how it is supposed to work. The tit actually has a ridge on it near the umbrella part; is that supposed to be stuffed in the hole so the whole check valve stays in place? I just have the skinny part f the tit in the hole now, and when you take the pump and spring out the check valve will just fall out.
I also thought of replacing the vaccuum advance on the distributor to cure the problem...are those notorious for going bad after years of sitting or am I just wasting precious beer money?
With dist cap off, suck on the carb end of the vacuum line. A mirror may help you to see if the breaker plate rotates with the vacuum. No rotation means the vacuum advance needs replaced.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 176
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From: Bolivar, MO>
fought the same problem for several years on my 66 and decided just to live with it. rebuilt the carb and even replaced it. replaced the intake with 4bbl and a 600 holley and no mre hesistation. sold the carb to 46yblock he rebuilt it and it ran fine for him. said he found junk in the carb and plugged up an orifice. i say again i am no carb guru!
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 88
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From: South Jersey
Just fixed mine
I just went through this with my 65 f100 352 2bbl. It would hesitate and stall on take off. I replaced the plugs, the wires, the coil, the points with solid state and a vacuum modulator, which was bad. All these did not solve my problem. I even rebuilt the carb. I should mention that the truck wanted to run at 20 degrees advanced. So I replaced the timing chain and sprockets as well as buying a new rebuilt carb (autolite 2bbl) and now the truck runs great with no hesitation. I can't say whether the timing issue or the carb was the main culprit, but I'll bet this is what your facing. You can get an autolite 2bbl from Rockauto for $ 132, $106 after returning core. I think my original carb was beyond rebuilding with the standard kit, in other words I believe there were mechanical issues with the carb. Theres some good info in the thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ight=emissions Hows your timing and idle?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 619
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From: Montpelier, VA
I also had this problem even after rebuilding the carb. The engine builder was convinced i didn't clean the carb thoroughly enough so I let him clean it and rebuild it. It ran exactly the same. He said it wasn't getting enough fuel and gave me a set of bigger jets to replace the stock ones. I was doubtful, but it made all the difference in the world.
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Senior User
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Well, tinkered with it over the weekend, got the check valve in place properly, and then I noticed that only one side of the carb was getting a shot of gass when I hit the accelerator pump. So I pulled the V out and cleaned itup, now I am getting a shot on both sides. Its better, but still not great. If I goose it hard it stumbles, then backfires. So I am going to tune it up and check the timing next. hopefully that clears it up. If not, I'm going to have to find a new carb.
I looked for a new 2100 at rock auto and couldn't find one for a 1965 F100...Is there a specific way to look one up?
I looked for a new 2100 at rock auto and couldn't find one for a 1965 F100...Is there a specific way to look one up?
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 619
Likes: 1
From: Montpelier, VA
The accelerator pump arm has 2 positions. Do you have it on the one that will give it the biggest squirt of fuel when you accelerate?
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: South Jersey
Sorry I didn't give specifics. I found the proper carb listed under 1967 f100 5.8 liter. Don't ask me why they don't list it under 1965 or 66 cause it worked just fine on my 65 352.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Last night I put a timing light on it and the timing was way off! It didn't even register on the timing marks on the balancer...So I got the timing set at 6 degrees with the vaccuum advance disconnected and now it runs like a scalded dog (at least compared to how it used to run)...I messed with the accelerator pump linkage position a little bit more, and now it is getting a good shot of gas when I hit the throttle too.
Thanks guys for all the advice! I almost started throwing abunch of money at the problem (which i don't have).
Thanks guys for all the advice! I almost started throwing abunch of money at the problem (which i don't have).
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6eightF250
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
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Oct 24, 2011 09:03 AM
1966, 1967, 2bbl, 2bbl352, 352, 66, accelerator, accelorator, bbl, carb, carburetor, f100, ford, pump, stumbles
