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Somehow my return line got pulled off and it broke a tit on my selector valve. Can anyone tell me the part # for this valve - I think the brand is Pollak. Do they sell them aftermarket, or do i have to go to ford?
its easier to buy the one from ford yes.it's a direct bolt and wire in replacement.
there is just one catch.you'll know what it is when you call ford for a price.
it's not "that" hard to
a.wire in a universal.directions: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ghlight=Pollak
b.bypass the valve and just run one tank. directions: remove the lines.cap off one tanks lines,connect the other tank lines directly to the lines that run up to the engine.
c.some have even ditched the electric valve and opted to swap in manual valves.
I remember when i was young the brass valve by the seat on our 1973 f250 ranger.
I called ford - they wanted $350 - I get the subtle hint.
I've got too many projects - 1959 ford 1/2 ton 4x4
1968 ford 3/4 ton 4x4 460/C6
1988 F350 7.3l ATS crew cab 4x4
1989 F250 7.3l idi reg cab
1987 Chevy shortbed 4x4 (howd that happen)
I think i may have a pickup problem................
went to the junk yard this weekend and cut a valve out of an crew cab diesel. I just cut the lines and took a bath in diesel fuel. Hopefully it works. Cost was $30. They threw in a shifter boot for free.
Can I switch the valves out without dropping the tank? The lines that come in the back seem like they will be hard to get to.
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