finally doing d44 ttb u joints help please
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finally doing d44 ttb u joints help please
Finally have time to replace my u joints in my d44 ttb front end anybody have tips for me to make this as painless as possible and as far as pullin axles they just slide out and slide back in right?
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From: Virginia
This is a big job you only want to do once. You have to tear down the complete axle on each side. I would wait till you have the money, and get new balljoints and a new seal for the hub. Since you have to tear all this stuff out anyway, you might as well replace it when you have it out.
The balljoints on the 44's with the diesels don't last long, especially when plowing snow. And you might as well repack the wheel bearings, so you will need that seal. If you need rotors, now is the time to do it.
You have to pull the 4wd hubs out and take the spanner nuts loose that hold the wheel bearings loose.
Take the caliper off and hang it out of the way
Pull the rotor off, and then take all the bolts loose and pull the spindle/axle piece off.
Then you bust loose the tie rod end off, bust the balljoints loose, and take the whole knuckle/spindle piece off.
Then you can finally jerk the axle out of the pumpkin on the driver's side, and slide it out of the slip joint on the pass side. Make sure to cut the boot loose on the pass side slip joint.
Now's the time to check the slip joint on the pass side. If it has a lot of wear, you will need a new yoke and a new axle.
The balljoints on the 44's with the diesels don't last long, especially when plowing snow. And you might as well repack the wheel bearings, so you will need that seal. If you need rotors, now is the time to do it.
You have to pull the 4wd hubs out and take the spanner nuts loose that hold the wheel bearings loose.
Take the caliper off and hang it out of the way
Pull the rotor off, and then take all the bolts loose and pull the spindle/axle piece off.
Then you bust loose the tie rod end off, bust the balljoints loose, and take the whole knuckle/spindle piece off.
Then you can finally jerk the axle out of the pumpkin on the driver's side, and slide it out of the slip joint on the pass side. Make sure to cut the boot loose on the pass side slip joint.
Now's the time to check the slip joint on the pass side. If it has a lot of wear, you will need a new yoke and a new axle.
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From: Lost
While you're in there, check the spindle bearings that hold the ends of the axles centered in the spindles. If in doubt, replace them. The entire kit is under $20/side at most parts suppliers.
Also, have a look at the inner right axle u-joint and bearing. If those need attention, this would be the time to do them. Same goes for the inner axle seals.
Also, have a look at the inner right axle u-joint and bearing. If those need attention, this would be the time to do them. Same goes for the inner axle seals.
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im not too concerned about the job haha im actually excited .. but im having difficulty with the bolts holdin the lockout on those tiny things are friggen ridiculous what is the right size allen for them ? iv got everything up to this point done... kinda using this one as practice for the dana 60 on dads dodge im about to do
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From: Virginia
I have had to drill the allen head bolts out often on these trucks. The get frozen to the aluminum of the hub and are impossible to get out. Just get a drill that is a little bit smaller than the od of the allen head, and drill till the head is gone. You can then pull the hub off over what's left, and then take pliers and unscrew the rest of it. I seem to remember the bolts are 10-32. If you can't find the proper allen bolt, you can get a regular round head screw that takes a flat head screwdriver, and grind the od of the head down a little bit till it fits down inside the hub. Never-sieze is your friend here when putting it back together.
The special socket you need will be the smaller dana 44 socket. It fits all the 70's Ford half-tons and well as the chevy half-tons. The larger socket is for the dana 50 ttb and the dana 60.
The special socket you need will be the smaller dana 44 socket. It fits all the 70's Ford half-tons and well as the chevy half-tons. The larger socket is for the dana 50 ttb and the dana 60.
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From: MT. Morris
A little tip
I'v found that pounding A torks bit in to the allin head helps to break them loose and gives a secound chance after striping the allin head
I'v found that pounding A torks bit in to the allin head helps to break them loose and gives a secound chance after striping the allin head
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all awesome tips ill be trying .. torx first then drill time if torx dont work.. where can I get the bolts I need if I have to go drill route
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From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Hardware store ... Not sure about the 44, the 50 uses standard 10-32 x 1-1/2" SHCS, most any hardware store has them.
Stick with the typical black ones, they are GR8 and completely cover the head base, shank and threads with a thin layer of NICKEL never seize.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Stick with the typical black ones, they are GR8 and completely cover the head base, shank and threads with a thin layer of NICKEL never seize.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
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alright got ne bolts and slowly getting the hubs disassembled.. how do i remove the lock ring holding the hub in ? I took out a snap ring and a gear looking piece that had a large spring behind it now im stuck nothing will come out
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