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Truck wasn't running rich but computer threw a code at me. Dang O2 sensor. I was too lazy to replace it and I just got under my truck removed that little fella and it was black. So I got my carb cleaner and sprayed it and it looked new again. Haven't had a problem since then.
You can remove it & douche it w/ electronic contact cleaner once in a while, but I wouldn't advise carburator cleaner. I change mine at 35k, but over 60k is definitely dragging your MPG down. By 100k it's pretty pooched.
You can remove it & douche it w/ electronic contact cleaner once in a while, but I wouldn't advise carburator cleaner. I change mine at 35k, but over 60k is definitely dragging your MPG down. By 100k it's pretty pooched.
Believe it or not mine is original so it has 210,000+mi. lmao! Ahh! I am so cheap lol. I am like that... if it doens't give me problems then it stays. My MPG is pretty good actually.
Everybody's had em, some people just don't know it. It start's w/ them becoming less accurate & their switching speed slows w/ age. MPG starts going down the crapper. Then it's really down hill from there, CEL's, stuff like that. The O2 codes are not alway symptomatic of bad sensor. Like a : always rich/ no switching code. That could actually mean a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator. Not switching/ alway lean could mean a EGR valve not closing.
seconded.
I need to change mine, my trucks at 180k and it has probably never been touched.
mustang chick, i look forward to E-4 pay, E-3 here, so not to far away, although i get to go back to being a civilian (most of the time) in about a month...
although I disagree about dd or work truck, cause alot of us use ours for both I have driven mine all over the midwest with the backseat full of my belongings and the crossbox fully loaded with tools, clear to pulling trailers, although i move around alot more than your normal human...
aerodynamics are a HUGE deal doubling your speed takes 4 time the power, and aerodynamics are the biggest factor over 45mph
Believe it or not mine is original so it has 210,000+mi. lmao! Ahh! I am so cheap lol. I am like that... if it doens't give me problems then it stays. My MPG is pretty good actually.
Throwing away 30-40 Miles / tank of gas, sounds like your a big spender! Personally, for me, that would qualify as a problem.
According to my autozone reader I got a MAF code and Egr code. I put new parts on it and drove it down the road and BAM light back on. Checked the codes and it says the same thing. I noticed that adding timing has helped the gas mileage. Usually from full to 3/4 I get 30 mpg and 1/2 Im at 57-60. Adding the timing adjusted me to 52-54 3/4. I will let you know what 1/2 does when I get there. I believe the 02 sensor is bad and causing the ecu to dump a bunch of gas. Advancing the timing that much is just leaning it out. I tried to replace the 02 sensor yesterday but its welded in. will not come out!! still working on that.
I'm kind of disappointed that I've seen several in depth ways to increase mileage, but none of the easiest ones... I've done the following with all of my vehicles, (1999 Mustang, 2008 F-150, my boyfriend's 2004 Mustang) and have gotten good results for the money.
1.) Cold-air intake- the better your rig breathes, the better and easier she runs
2.) Bosch Platinum 4 plugs & wires- very smooth, easy starts, so you're not wasting gas gettin her goin, and the money you spend to get them is saved in all the time they last. The set I put in my Mustang 4 years ago still look brand new!
3.) A hood with vents in it- I just cut out the plastic insert in the Mustangs, but found a cowl hood for the truck, had a vent cut into it, and machined a simple aluminum "grate" to give it a finished look. This simple step has made all of my motors run much cooler under even the worst conditions! (I live in central CA, where it's over 100* in the summer, and regularly race the Stangs and pull with the truck) If you think about it, you set up your hood like you would for a RAM-air intake, keep a cold air on the motor- your motor will always have cooler air running over the top, (the hottest part) which means the accessories that pull power off your motor to cool it don't have to work so hard.
4.) Drop weight in the easiest places- aluminum pans, racing style seats, (which actually tend to look and feel WAY better) aluminum wheels, fiberglass hood, sideskirts, aluminum bumpers, mount subs straight to the underside of your back seats, (if you keep them- check out Memphis audio low-pro subs- boxes are nothing but extra bulk and weight) and there's a million other parts that can be switched out for lighter aluminum.
A lot of those changes are oh-so-simple, cheap, and pretty effective- if I'm not stompin the gas, I get low 20's (mpg) in my truck, and low 30's in my Stang, so I'm sure it'll help your old girl!
If the cold air intake you have is one with an open element under the hood, it is actually a hot air intake and is not helping you at all. A true cold air intake like ram air is a great idea.
The Bosch Plat 4 plugs should be disposed of and replaced with Motorcraft of Autolite plugs.
Reducing weight and not carrying extra stuff should always help.
I also doubt that most people would be willing to shave every ounce of weight possible. Its not cost effective. Also, the uncomfortable racing seats are not something very many people will want to do.
According to my autozone reader I got a MAF code and Egr code. I put new parts on it and drove it down the road and BAM light back on. Checked the codes and it says the same thing. I noticed that adding timing has helped the gas mileage. Usually from full to 3/4 I get 30 mpg and 1/2 Im at 57-60. Adding the timing adjusted me to 52-54 3/4. I will let you know what 1/2 does when I get there. I believe the 02 sensor is bad and causing the ecu to dump a bunch of gas. Advancing the timing that much is just leaning it out. I tried to replace the 02 sensor yesterday but its welded in. will not come out!! still working on that.
Yr., engine, & exact code #'s? Are the KOEO, KOER or Continuous?
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