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you should just with the elec fans and cats deleted. Also i do not think the egr delete will improve mpg i think it will actually hurt it. I deleted mine when i put the headers on and my mpg suck but i will be putting it back on soon.
i read something the other day that got me thinking.....i was poking around on ebay and found a set of reman injectors, these were the "4 hole" updated design.......when did they go from 1 (im assuming) to 4 jets ??...anyone know??......my feeling is anything that atomizes the fuel smaller means more power from less fuel which means better MPG.....
course, just a new set alone would probably give a bit of increase.....or at least a pro cleaning......i dunno, whats the symptoms of a 17 y/o injector vs new
I agree with markIII about the egr. it puts exaust into the engine at lighter load cruising, the exhaust doesn't burn (inert) so it makes your 5.0 similar to a 3.0 or 4.0 while cruising, all while using less fuel and making less emissions.
and the injectors would probably make more of a difference just being clean and new, be nice if they were flow-matched, but take all that you could get, i wouldn't mind a set...
different auction, but yes, same style of injector....im assuming that pumping 19lbs per hours (or whatever the average use is) through 4 tinier holes, then 1 larger one means the fuel would presumably be atomized 4 times smaller ???
i know better then to think that equals 4 times better mileage.....but when you have an increase of 300% in atomization, that has to equal a measurable amount of thermal increase per pound of fuel...
DO OUR TRUCKS HAVE THE SINGLE DESIGN, OR THE QUAD??....WHAT YEAR DID THEY START USING THESE ??
I would like to know more about the 2nd generation type injectors. I have the Ford Racing ones on my truck, but I don't know if they are 1st or 2nd generation.
There are many things you can do to increase fuel mileage. The problem is, you have to judge if the trouble and expense of doing them will be worth a small increase in mileage. You can end up spending more than what you will be saving. I don't think our trucks are going to get great gas mileage unless they're pushed down hill with the engine off. My 95 gets worse mileage than my 79, and the 79 doesn't even have efi or overdrive and the 95 just recently had a tune up including a new O2 sensor.
Regardless, here are some more tips / suggestions.
Make it as light as possible ( within safety and reason)
replace step bumper w/ filler panel (if legal)
replace tailgate w/ cargo net
remove rear seat
run a taller / narrower tire
dyno tune for best mpg
program trans (automatic) for earlier up shifts and converter lockup
accelerate like grandpa
decelerate like a tractor trailer (off the throttle way early)
I disagree about the taller tires
Very disagree about the cargo net. That will diminish the aerodynamics. Keep the tailgate for optimum highway mpg,
A tonneau cover would help big time on the highway. Just a cheap tonneau cover could pay for itself in a year with fuel savings
I disagree about the taller tires
Very disagree about the cargo net. That will diminish the aerodynamics. Keep the tailgate for optimum highway mpg,
A tonneau cover would help big time on the highway. Just a cheap tonneau cover could pay for itself in a year with fuel savings
I'm not understanding why some are saying smalller tires will give better mpg. I'm thinking taller tires will act similar to overdrive in that the engine will rotate slower yet cover a greater distance not to mention more inertia to keep it moving.
I can understand the tonneau cover. I'm referring to open bed with tailgate closed vs cargo net and weight reduction.
smaller tires wont give better mpg....they cause the engine to turn at a higher rpm.....maybe good in some of our cases with steep gears....but across the board i think they hurt mpg.....they dont travel as far per revolution
taller tires if majority of your driving is on the highway, shorter if you do alot of driving around in town, can be used to "fine tune" your final reduction ratio
I'm guessing stock tire size is pretty close to the most energy efficient, as far as diameter if the gearing is stock. Lighter rims would be be beneficial. So would narrower tires by virtue of the weight reduction, but I'd rather pay a little more at the pump than run a narrower tire. I was reading an article about hi tech bicycle designs that stated the most return for weight reduction was for the items that rotated. Crank, hubs, rims, tires ect...Then of course, there's the density of the rubber used as to road resistance.
Go figure the check engine light came last week and it threw a air meter code. So the last tank was back down to 10.7 mpg. I can only imagine its running pig rich. So now I looking for a stock air meter.