NO!

Longtubes with make more power and torque everywhere. They just require more money,work and exhaust fabbing. Shorties will give a gain over manifolds and are a direct bolt up. But longtubes by far better!

 

Should not be necessary but you can check it, should be around 0.9-0.99v closed and 4.5-5v wide open. Voltage should also increase/decrease smoothly with no dead spots from CL to OP.

This was only used on all mechanical AOD transmissions.. which the OP's truck does not likely have. It's more likely to have the electronically controlled E4OD or 4R70w.

I don't know about that advice.. especially in hot climates. Tires get hotter the more you drive and that will further increase pressure. You definitely don't want under inflated tires but there's no need to crank them up to max on an unloaded vehicle, that will just decrease ride quality, produce uneven tire wear, reduce wet weather traction, and potentially risk a blowout.

 

I just checked my gear/tire/trans ratio to see what RPM im at when Im crusing. My truck has the E4OD which has a .71 overdrive. I cruise between 70-80 mph to work and back.

2000rpm 72
2100rpm 75
2200rpm 79
2300rpm 82

 

The axle code on the drivers door pillar will give you the gear ratio..

 

I have 3.31 axle code 17

 

I get 14 city and I WAS getting 22hw. No idea why it dropped, might be the speed.

Seafoam seafoam seafoam... That's all I can say. Advanced timing, new plugs, o2 sensors. Basically all the routine maintenance items. I didn't notice much of a gain at all from the electric fans, but the truck just felt lighter.

Tires have an effect on HW mileage also.

 

Best milage will be the fastest speed you can maintain with the least throttle input.. which I'm betting will be no higher than 70mph as drag increases exponentially the faster you go.

 

^ Yes. That also brings me to another point I didn't mention.

Don't use the throttle unless you need to, and only give it enough to get moving. -Not excessive. When slowing down or approaching a stop sign or light, try and coast for a 1/3 mile instead of a 1/4 mile and subsequently hitting the brakes harder than you need to. I was doing this back home to try and save fuel.

You have to change your driving style first. No jack-rabbit starts. Give it about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle and leave it there until you are up to speed, or enough to NOT hold up traffic and not get rear ended.

These trucks also seem to like about 1900 rpm on the highway. Anything over 2k will start sucking down gas pretty bad. 1900 seems to be about 67mph with 3.31's, 4R70W stock tire size and the 5.0. I set the cruise by the tach, not the speed.

Someone told me here once "Drive it like there's an egg under the gas pedal"

 

advance the timing to what?
what octane do you use?

 

Ok I got some stuff for saturday

autolite copper plugs
seafoam
belt to bypass the smog pump 915PK6 and remove all its crap. The stock belt is is 99 inches long and the new belt is 91.5 inches long.


Im gonna gut the cat closest to the motor and remove the back cat replacing it with straight pipe. Im gonna install a dynomax turbo muffler and stock tailpipe.

 

I use regular unleaded with my timing advanced to 14* BTDC. It works out good for me I just gotta fab up my egr valve to work.

 

Where are you located?

 

Arkansas

 

My timing MAY be around 18*. Been running 87 octane. Runs like crap with 91 and never tried 89.

 

What are yall gapping plugs too?