Temps?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,833
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From: Middle Tn.
Today it was 104 ambient here and I was running 204 ect and 211 eot at 75 mph on the freeway. Both coolers are new. Just info for you. I have also been running a coolant filter for the last 5 years.
New User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 7
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Not quite ........ I should have added some explanation to the post.
Some time ago I developed these by asking folks on the forum. I asked both Techs and "gearheads" that were heavy into mods. I then compiled the input ALONG WITH some Ford information.
For example: Tranny Temp
As for the "Factory" transmission temp gauge, it is a glorified "idiot" light as its response is severely dampened. The panel gauge will show the temp as fully warmed up at 50 *F. Between 100-220F the needle will remain in the same position on the gauge. At 230F it will move up slightly to the middle of the normal range. At 250F it will move to Yellow. The gage moves to red at 280. This is supported on page 36 of the OBDII Theory and Operations manual. The tow/haul light will flash at 275.
Over 220 is really too hot for continuous service IMO - most likely something is not right when you see temps continuously this high. Never exceed 250 for more than 30 minutes for reasons below.
Mark Kovalsky (former Ford tranny engineer) says the fluid can get to 300 for a SHORT time w/o any seal damage (however a measured temp of 250 could actually mean that some areas and parts may already be as high as 300 - normal tranny fluid is good to 300 or so, but your tranny isn't!).
Also: Fuel Pressure
Ford does state that you definitely should not let your fuel pressure get below 45 psig - ever (even at WOT). They also say that 75 psig is the upper limit based on o-ring integrity in the injectors. Generally the right side injectors (passenger side) are the first to fail from lack of fuel pressure. Fuel MUST act as a buffer for the injector plunger. The suction pressure loss to the HFCM should be no more than 6 inches of vacuum.
Also: Coolant Temp
Some say fan kicks on at 210, some say 215, others say 220. Full explanation: Engine temperature is not the only parameter that the PCM monitors to determine cooling fan operation. This is the reason that you will see some variation in engine temperature as it correlates to fan operation. The operation/description of the FSS (Fan Speed Sensor) from the PC/ED manual has a fairly good explanation as to how the system "thinks". This is not your traditional engine hits temp X and the fan clutch locks up. The fan speed sensor is a Hall-Effect sensor integral to the vistronic drive fan (VDF). The powertrain control module (PCM) will monitor sensor inputs and control the VDF speed based upon engine coolant temperature (ECT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT) and intake air temperature (IAT) requirements. When an increase in fan speed for vehicle cooling is requested, the PCM will monitor the FSS signal and output the required pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to a fluid port valve within the VDF. Engine begins to defuel at 221 deg. The thermostat begins to open at about 190*F to 195*F and is not fully open until about 215*F to 219*F..
Also: Oil Temperature
Usually 5-15 deg above coolant temp. Engine begins to defuel at 253 *F oil temp (PC/ED manual). You should not exceed the ECT by more than 15 degrees.
So - The readings are based somewhat on opinions, somewhat on Ford values. People COULD argue that 220 and 230 are too conservative as alarm temps for the transmission. I couldn't really disagree too much, but I will say that for many transmissions, these alarm values are good. Most folks I talk to say their transmission runs way cooler than these alarm temps. IMO alarms should be set to inform you that something is not normal BEFORE you get into a danger zone. Also, some people with tuners and studs say 1400 - 1500 EGT MAY be OK for VERY SHORT bursts - I wouldn't want to do it. Lastly, BOOST values depend heavily on aftermarket mods like studs, turbo and tuners. It is really very hard to define a set of readings that apply to everyone. I know some people running at 40 psig boost w/ studs though and they do not seem to be worried. Even with studs, this would make me nervous.
As always, opinions and discussion over these are more than welcome.
Some time ago I developed these by asking folks on the forum. I asked both Techs and "gearheads" that were heavy into mods. I then compiled the input ALONG WITH some Ford information.
For example: Tranny Temp
As for the "Factory" transmission temp gauge, it is a glorified "idiot" light as its response is severely dampened. The panel gauge will show the temp as fully warmed up at 50 *F. Between 100-220F the needle will remain in the same position on the gauge. At 230F it will move up slightly to the middle of the normal range. At 250F it will move to Yellow. The gage moves to red at 280. This is supported on page 36 of the OBDII Theory and Operations manual. The tow/haul light will flash at 275.
Over 220 is really too hot for continuous service IMO - most likely something is not right when you see temps continuously this high. Never exceed 250 for more than 30 minutes for reasons below.
Mark Kovalsky (former Ford tranny engineer) says the fluid can get to 300 for a SHORT time w/o any seal damage (however a measured temp of 250 could actually mean that some areas and parts may already be as high as 300 - normal tranny fluid is good to 300 or so, but your tranny isn't!).
Also: Fuel Pressure
Ford does state that you definitely should not let your fuel pressure get below 45 psig - ever (even at WOT). They also say that 75 psig is the upper limit based on o-ring integrity in the injectors. Generally the right side injectors (passenger side) are the first to fail from lack of fuel pressure. Fuel MUST act as a buffer for the injector plunger. The suction pressure loss to the HFCM should be no more than 6 inches of vacuum.
Also: Coolant Temp
Some say fan kicks on at 210, some say 215, others say 220. Full explanation: Engine temperature is not the only parameter that the PCM monitors to determine cooling fan operation. This is the reason that you will see some variation in engine temperature as it correlates to fan operation. The operation/description of the FSS (Fan Speed Sensor) from the PC/ED manual has a fairly good explanation as to how the system "thinks". This is not your traditional engine hits temp X and the fan clutch locks up. The fan speed sensor is a Hall-Effect sensor integral to the vistronic drive fan (VDF). The powertrain control module (PCM) will monitor sensor inputs and control the VDF speed based upon engine coolant temperature (ECT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT) and intake air temperature (IAT) requirements. When an increase in fan speed for vehicle cooling is requested, the PCM will monitor the FSS signal and output the required pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to a fluid port valve within the VDF. Engine begins to defuel at 221 deg. The thermostat begins to open at about 190*F to 195*F and is not fully open until about 215*F to 219*F..
Also: Oil Temperature
Usually 5-15 deg above coolant temp. Engine begins to defuel at 253 *F oil temp (PC/ED manual). You should not exceed the ECT by more than 15 degrees.
So - The readings are based somewhat on opinions, somewhat on Ford values. People COULD argue that 220 and 230 are too conservative as alarm temps for the transmission. I couldn't really disagree too much, but I will say that for many transmissions, these alarm values are good. Most folks I talk to say their transmission runs way cooler than these alarm temps. IMO alarms should be set to inform you that something is not normal BEFORE you get into a danger zone. Also, some people with tuners and studs say 1400 - 1500 EGT MAY be OK for VERY SHORT bursts - I wouldn't want to do it. Lastly, BOOST values depend heavily on aftermarket mods like studs, turbo and tuners. It is really very hard to define a set of readings that apply to everyone. I know some people running at 40 psig boost w/ studs though and they do not seem to be worried. Even with studs, this would make me nervous.
As always, opinions and discussion over these are more than welcome.
My 2004 f250 with 177k is running perfect and I have studs, fully deleted and I have the ipr high flow coolant filter, new oil cooler, backed flushed the new cooler, multiple coolant flushes, used vc9 iron cleaner in and ran it and flushed. I watch my sct x4 tuner while running the truck for 1-2hours doing 70-80mph no hull just driving normal in Florida’s hot weather and I’m getting 194-207 ECT and 236-257 EOT.....????
New User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 7
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Yeah I realize that but no one else knows what in the world the problems is I guess it’s normal. I did all of the chemical flushes before I put a new cooler in and my high flow coolant filter only has just a little bit of specs in it
New User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I only use OEM ford motorcraft parts in my truck. I am so out of ideas lol. I have never had the truck defuel on my or any type of notification of warning. Changed all sensors, nothing is swapped or backwards like a sensor connection. I’ve even used a heat gun on the block and it’s the same on the tuner, I’ve used different computers to see if there is any temp difference and all temps are the same as my tuner. Everything is fresh on this truck. All new gaskets all new filters all new fluids. Just trying to get some type of idea. The only thing I can really think of that MIGHT be the issue would be something restricting the oil flow? Like a backwards gasket or just something blocking the oil someplace. But I’ve got normal oil pressure and like I said truck runs to perfect for there to be an oil restriction.
Thanks
Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,792
Likes: 3,542
Hate to push on it, but does that mean you bought the oil cooler from a dealership ...... or was it purchased from a store that advertised it as a Ford OEM? Several places advertise OEM oil coolers, but they really aren't.
New User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I bid on it on eBay... it came in the same box as they do at the dealer with the blue ford motorcraft lable on the box? You think I may have an aftermarket cooler in it?