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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 09:35 PM
  #46  
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i would make one. it's just 2 wires
 
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 09:49 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Krisx125
Well like an idiot i left the wiring harness in the truck. Figured it was to hard to take out. Seems like its in there pretty well. Do i make my own harness? Or should i go back and pull a harness out?
I took the lights and set them on the cab where I wanted. I'm kinda **** so I measured a lot and marked the roof with my boy's washable markers. The lights in mine had one red wire several inches long with no connector and a black about 1.5" with a connector crimped on the end that was tacked down with a small self tapping screw(doubles as ground). I drilled the holes for the securing screws, secured the ground under where the light will be, and then drilled a hole just large enough for the red wire. I went in the cab and fished out the red wires, took a single wire long enough to run from the driver's side cab light to the plug in the kick panel, and clamped the red wires in place onto the main wire. I didn't cut the wires at the plug. I left the ground since they are already grounded. I pulled the red thing out of the plug so I could get the green wire out as is then connected the main wire to the prong. Once I get the LEDs or if I ever decide to make them do the electric slide when I remote lock my doors I'll do a little better job but that was easy and super functional.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #48  
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I cheated when I did mine. I took the lights off a truck in a scrap yard measured the spacing between and front to back Then took the front edge of the headliner off and used the arc from that as the tmplate fo the top to mark and drill my holes. Then I strun two wires across the inside edge and dasiy chained the lights togther on the single wire. one wire ground and one hot. Then bought the 194 amber 4 led packs of 2 bulbs from autozone for $10 each and plugged em in and voila.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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the LED 194's are direct replacments? and they are $10 each?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by chicagodragon
the LED 194's are direct replacments? and they are $10 each?
They sell packs of two LED bulbs for $10 per package each bulb contains 4 amber LED's. They are direct replacements for the stock 194 (or I beleive its a 194 bulb). you simply plug them in. They dont require anything to drive them. I use LED's on my tail lights too 3157 replacements in red LED's they are like $15 a set and have like 12 LED's and they work fine as long as you use heavy duty electronic flashers as they dont create enough load to cause thermals to flash. they barely create enough load for electronic flashers, if you convert the front amber flasher there too youll need to introduce load balancers to keep them flashing.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 07:11 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Oversize
They sell packs of two LED bulbs for $10 per package each bulb contains 4 amber LED's. They are direct replacements for the stock 194 (or I beleive its a 194 bulb). you simply plug them in. They dont require anything to drive them. I use LED's on my tail lights too 3157 replacements in red LED's they are like $15 a set and have like 12 LED's and they work fine as long as you use heavy duty electronic flashers as they dont create enough load to cause thermals to flash. they barely create enough load for electronic flashers, if you convert the front amber flasher there too youll need to introduce load balancers to keep them flashing.
What do you mean by using heavy duty electronic flashers?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #52  
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Standard factory flashers are thermal, meaning that as the current flows through them they get hot, after the reach a certain temp the contacts break/ open cool then close, thus causing the lights to flash. Heavy duty electronic are designed for heavy towing, and or additional lighting in which there are more flashing lights ie. turnsignals, hazard lights. They are simply an electronic switch that opens and closes the contacts by a timer and requires very little load to drive it. Thermals when used with LED's often dont get hot enough to open the contacts as the draw from the LED's is so small, thus no blink or with too many lights they will blink so fast they appear to stay on. Electronics require less load to operate so they will work with minimal load like the tailights only as I stated, and will not be effected by excess load. To control this problem usually the introduction of load balancers is used. Load balancers dont use any current but have a resistor in them to cause a bottleneck effect to add a load to the flasher units. By the way there are 2 flasher units on our trucks, the first in on the front side of the fuse panel, and the one that controls the 4ways/ hazards is on the back side of the fuse panel.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 08:21 PM
  #53  
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Good info Oversize!
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:57 PM
  #54  
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So easy. I cant believe i evern posted anything asking questions! lol Heres some pics. I put them a little futher back. I looked at my plow truck and factory they sit so far up they look like they dont seal. So here they are.

 
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #55  
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Good job. When are you gonna make em blink?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 07:44 AM
  #56  
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Looks great!
 
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 09:37 AM
  #57  
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Thanks guys! It made it a totally different truck.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by chicagodragon
i added a ulta bright 5mm led to each clearence light with a seperate line for each one so they could be controlled seperatly. a PIC micro controller does all the work. my cousin did the programming. they can do whatever you imagine. it only takes him 5 min to change the program. its triggered by the horn on the keyless entry lock.
Do they flash if you just beep the horn?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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they would, but i put them on a relay to prevent that . when the key is on they dont work
 
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 06:22 AM
  #60  
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Oversize,
Would you have a part number for the flasher you're talking about?
 
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