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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Dana 60

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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #16  
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Get all brackets that attach to the frame and cross member. Get the steering arms from the steering box down if possible. Not sure if 250 one's will work.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 03:38 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by TheTowingCowboy
OT but I LOVE your bars Ryan did you make them? If so how and such?
Yeah I made them, Just PM and I can give you some info.

Someone also asked how much a D50 is worth, I say scrap steel price which is like $200 a ton around my place.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 07:00 PM
  #18  
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Definitely get the tie rods and drag links from the F350 if you can. I think your D50 has the Y-looking steering setup like my F150's D44 TTB did, looks retarded with a straight axle and handles funny. I made my own heim joint steering and bars though after a while.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #19  
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Bet it would handle funny.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 09:27 PM
  #20  
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Get the drive shaft also. Those are hard to get hold of after.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:21 PM
  #21  
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IIRC you have to get them fro a certain year set but I dont remember.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 02:19 AM
  #22  
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Talking to the wrecking yard Monday.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 01:36 PM
  #23  
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I think 87-97.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Riffraff Performance
I have a Dana 50 if anyone wants one. Just thought I would throw it out there.
I would probably get it from you if I was back in Oregon right now. I'll be moving back next year. Would prefer a 60 though.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 09:47 PM
  #25  
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The most important thing you must get is the plate on the drivers side under the 60 housing that the U bolts go through.

To many salvage yards just cut the U bolts and that plate goes in the scrap pile.

Without it, you can not bolt it up.

Several years ago, about 4 years now I replaced the 44 under my 86 250 with a 1992 D 60.
Lots of snow plow work in the winter, mud in the spring and hard work truck all year round.

Best price I could get a complete 60 for was 1500.
Replaced all bearings and seals plus added a limited slip unit, another 1500 dollars.

The axle paid for it's self with less tire wear and not having to replace the ball joints and tie rods every year to pass inspection.
Also in a normal winter, I would break several U joints and an axle or two, which always happened at the worst possible time, when we had a heavy snow.

Those break downs get very expensive since you are not making money, you are buying parts and probably paying someone to install them since you probably can't get home.

This past winter we got hammered with snow, and I had to replace the U joints at both knuckles after running chains on the front axle for several weeks plowing hard with 3.5 seasons on the joints.

Best investment I ever made, returning cash to my pocket in three years and still leaving a lot in it every year since.
 
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