Passive Anti Theft System

If the PATS doesn't recognize the key in the ingition (even though it's cut correctly) it will not allow the truck to start becuase it doesn't recognize the resistor in the key. After a certain amount of tries or some sort of electrical short or failure, it locks the system out until Ford unlocks it.

 

I observed that, the Past theft indicator flashers every 2 second at ignition off, and it stays on for 3 seconds at ignitions start and then off… does this mean the PAST system ok and didn’t required any further investigation or not. Please advice???

Also, I changed one battery but still the issue not resolved

 

Today I pass to the dealer and get a copy of the inspection report:
Engine crank not start. Check and verify engine crank but no start. Check oil level looks ok. All fluid level ok. Electrical and connections looks ok. Take DTC code P0404, P0470, P0135, P0611, P0672, P0677. Check fuel press ok. Fuel restriction ok. Monitor PID data ICP1730 PS1 1PR duty cycle ok. Perform manual compression.
<O
Check wirings, harness and connection. Visual inspection of all sensors. Check individual injector for fuel leak. Test parts to check for properly working components. Try to start engine, engine still not start and excessive smoke coming from suspect blow by engine or low comp.

<OI search in the web for the DTC code, I listed below except one (P0611) I can’t find it

Auxiliary Emissions Controls<O
P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance<O
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction<O
<O
Ignition System or Misfire<O
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction<O
<O
Computer Output Circuit<O
P0611<O</O
P0672 Glow plug #2 circuit failure<O
P0677 Glow plug #7 circuit failure<O
<O</O

The dealer want to pull down the engine to overhaul and also want to change the following parts<O
1 FICM, 8 Injectors & 1 PCM or PLM (not clear from the report)<O</O
<O</O

Please I need you to share me your thought…. Is this required overhaul …. Should I replace Glow plug #2 & 7 only and start the engine<O
Which code is important, Should I change all the injectors and FICM or not.<O

 

The dealer is trying to rip you off, I say again, RIP YOU OFF!

They have no conclusive proof of what the no start issue is and they want to overhaul the engine. As I advised before, find another more competent dealer. This dealer you're at aims to not only perform unceccessary repairs, but throw a big expensive part in hopes that it *might* fix the problem. If I were you, I'd bite the bullet and have your truck towed elsewhere regardless of the expense.

A few things:

P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction

The output from the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor is ignored in later flashes due to the starting and performance issues it caused. If you simply unplug the sensor, it will go to a default value and the engine may start if this is indeed the cause.

P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance

Depending on your flash, unplugging the EGR valve should allow the engine to start, but with or without a code. Cleaning or replacing it wouldn't hurt either...

P0672 Glow plug #2 circuit failure
P0677 Glow plug #7 circuit failure

The engine should still start regardless of a glow plug failure. It may make it difficult and it may also belch out white smoke, but it'll start.

P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
This may be the cause of your "crank, no start", but will have to be further investigated.

1 FICM, 8 Injectors & 1 PCM

There is a proper test procedure to determine whether or not the FICM is bad or not: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

The dealer has the ability to test communication between the PCM and FICM and determine whether or not they're bad. The same goes for the injectors, as with the 7.3, the injectors can be buzzed to see if they're functioning properly. They even buzz when you turn the key on start up...

The dealer or shop you have your truck at seems to either be incredibly lazy or they're trying to line their pockets with your cash. Again, I would take my truck and business elsewhere.

 

Perform manual compression in (PSI)

Cylinder # PSI
1 --- 140
2 --- 160
3 --- 200
4 --- 200
5 --- 180
6 --- 180
7 --- 140
8 --- 120

I don't know what it should be the max & min PSI to confirm that the engine is good or bad...... from the result above on general, does the engine good or no and what is life percentage.

If it’s good what I should do …. What code error I should start with it?????
If it’s bad what I should do …..

 

Start with the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor: unplug it and try starting it...no start?> Try unplugging the EGR valve, but leave the EBPS unplugged.

If it still won't start, follow the test procedure for the FICM found here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

Post back and let us know....

 

where the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor & EGR located in the engine .... what is the EBPS and where is it located

 

I find the EGR but I can't find EPR location & what is the EBPS, where is it located

 

This shoud also help: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html

It's located on the driverside front of the engine, near the intake...

 

I removed the EBP and start cranking .... the cranking improved and the engine started one cycle and stop after long cranking .... I removed the EGR but the cranking not improved.
I observed that smoke came from the back of the engine… why?
I will inspect the FICM tomorrow
I would like to know the following:
The engine health ok as per the Perform manual compression test or not?
If the FICM good shall I do the same cranking or there is something I should inspect before that?
If the engine started what parts I should replace to make the engine back to normal condition?

 

TD--he does have a FICM failure code but I agree that it should be properly checked. Ford has a new TSB out for that also. I am very concerned about the compression numbers, especially since they "seem" to be low for a diesel and very scattered.

I also agree that the dealer has severly misdiagnosed a LOT of issues with this truck and is trying to sell him a HUGE number of expensive parts he doesn't need.

 

If the compression numbers listed by your dealer are in deed correct then your motor is toast. They should be around 380. anything below 350 and it's time to worry. Thanks Cheezit.

Irregardless. They are still, IMHO, trying to sell you a LOT of very expensive parts that they have know way of diagnosing properly. A failed FICM can throw every injector code in the book and you can still have good injectors. NOTHING indicates a failed PCM. Those 10 things can run around $4000 by them selves.

 

ya anytime. The engine is junk assuming the guy tring to figure it out knows wtf he is doing so far as a compression test goes.

 

LOL--and from the way this bunch sounds they probably cranked it for one compression stroke per cylinder instead of 5(?) I think it is, just to give you some numbers.

 

yup its 5. but that would be the number it should pump to first swing. lol