Car security system locked
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the dealer say that 200 PSI is good but lower than this not acceptable..... I will do the Perform manual compression in other shop to be sure... what is the right procedure to do the Perform manual compression.
As I reply before the engine want to start after long cranking but it stop after one cycle ….does this indicate that the fuel flow not enough to start the engine should I change the fuel filter?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Could you please explain this in more details I can't understand what you mean "they probably cranked it for one compression stroke per cylinder instead of 5(?)"
the dealer say that 200 PSI is good but lower than this not acceptable..... I will do the Perform manual compression in other shop to be sure... what is the right procedure to do the Perform manual compression.
As I reply before the engine want to start after long cranking but it stop after one cycle ….does this indicate that the fuel flow not enough to start the engine should I change the fuel filter?
the dealer say that 200 PSI is good but lower than this not acceptable..... I will do the Perform manual compression in other shop to be sure... what is the right procedure to do the Perform manual compression.
As I reply before the engine want to start after long cranking but it stop after one cycle ….does this indicate that the fuel flow not enough to start the engine should I change the fuel filter?
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Freshman User
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
thank for your explanation but, I wondering that the dealer does not applying the procedure test .... I read one article about this subject it say that "Warm up the Engine until the coolant temperature reaches 75<SUP>0</SUP><SUP> </SUP>C to 85<SUP>0</SUP>C prior to do the test" if the engine cold and not run for a time does this mean that the test compression done by dealer not accurate
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It could be lower than I told you cold, but it will still have a LOT higher than what the dealer tested hot or cold. It's not going to be 1/2 of what it should be cold or it would never start. Even a new engine wouldn't be 1/2 of what it's supposed to be (400-420) and be able to start. In some cases it may not be able to start the engine to warm it. This is your case.
what I should do to start it , yesterday I remove the EBP connection the cranking improve but it not start also I remove the EGR but no improve. I will test the FICM today if the result is ok what is the next step?????????
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Location????
I would like to clear one thing the compression test done under cranking, because the engine won’t to start..... I will repeat this test after the engine run
what I should do to start it , yesterday I remove the EBP connection the cranking improve but it not start also I remove the EGR but no improve. I will test the FICM today if the result is ok what is the next step?????????
what I should do to start it , yesterday I remove the EBP connection the cranking improve but it not start also I remove the EGR but no improve. I will test the FICM today if the result is ok what is the next step?????????
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I test the FICM as per the PROCEDURE for 4 SCREW FICM
1a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
1b. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
2. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
the result in (1a) 48v , 11v, 0v & 0v
the result in (1b) 48v , ?, 0v & 0v
the result in (2) 48v , ?, 0v & 0v
(?) I can't remember but I was less than 11v .... does this mean FICM not good and need to change.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
1a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
1b. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
2. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
the result in (1a) 48v , 11v, 0v & 0v
the result in (1b) 48v , ?, 0v & 0v
the result in (2) 48v , ?, 0v & 0v
(?) I can't remember but I was less than 11v .... does this mean FICM not good and need to change.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>FTE Stories
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can I repair it ?..... If yes, from your experience what I should trace in the board circuit ... usually what components are damaged on it ..... Do you have any support on this such as FICM procedure repair , you tube ... presentation .... artical....
Also I'm seeking a support from all….. any one repaired FICM can help me on this
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
From the 6.0 tech folder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...procedure.html
There are also two more FICM articles in the 6.0 tech folder at the beginning of this forum that are really informative.
There are also two more FICM articles in the 6.0 tech folder at the beginning of this forum that are really informative.
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I removed the FICM from the truck and try to repair it but the capacitors it so tied I feel that it's ok .....
My question, since the output voltage are lower than 48V .... If I replace all the capacitors do you think that it will improved or not.
If not what I should do ?????
My question, since the output voltage are lower than 48V .... If I replace all the capacitors do you think that it will improved or not.
If not what I should do ?????
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I removed the FICM from the truck and try to repair it but the capacitors it so tied I feel that it's ok .....
My question, since the output voltage are lower than 48V .... If I replace all the capacitors do you think that it will improved or not.
If not what I should do ?????
My question, since the output voltage are lower than 48V .... If I replace all the capacitors do you think that it will improved or not.
If not what I should do ?????
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On Edit: Have you considered taking it to a qualified electronic's technician and having it resoldered?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
I think so too, you can check with a few of FTE's vendors and they should be able to offer a programmed replacement.