New rotors needed??
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From: West Tx
Make sure you bed the pads in. There should be a guide with the new pads, but if not it involves heating the pads up to bed them in. I usually do 5 medium stops from 30 then let them cool, then I do 5 hard stops but not into ABS territory. Then let them cool. When you are doing this, come very close to a stop but don't let your pads stick or completely stop in one spot or you may transfer too much pad material and get brake pedal pulsation. Believe it or not, but the transfer film that is created in this process supplies a lot of the friction for stopping. If you aren't hard on your brakes, haul heavy loads or otherwise get the brakes hot on a routine basis, your transfer film can decrease and your braking efficiency goes down. Then you can get squeeky brakes and poor performance. I noticed one of our trucks that is driven by a careful and light braker had poor braking performance and once I got the pads hot, the stopping power increased a good degree both cold performance and hot... Good luck!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: coquitlam,BC
Thank you very much for the offer but I decided to go with the Power Slot Cryo rotors and Hawk pads.
My rotors have been warped for a while so I figured is was time to do the right upgrade. I also ordered the new pins.
I will follow guzzle's install for both the pins and rotors/pads so I dont miss anything and have a $$$ mistake like this again, but if there is anything else that I should do while doing this please let me know.
My rotors have been warped for a while so I figured is was time to do the right upgrade. I also ordered the new pins.
I will follow guzzle's install for both the pins and rotors/pads so I dont miss anything and have a $$$ mistake like this again, but if there is anything else that I should do while doing this please let me know.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: West Tx
Oh yeah.... bleed all four corners if you are going to open up the hydraulic system. They say when you push the pistons back in to open the bleed screw...but don't want to open up that can of worms haha.
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Hi!
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From: Central NJ
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Hi!
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: Central NJ
Make sure you bed the pads in. There should be a guide with the new pads, but if not it involves heating the pads up to bed them in. I usually do 5 medium stops from 30 then let them cool, then I do 5 hard stops but not into ABS territory. Then let them cool. When you are doing this, come very close to a stop but don't let your pads stick or completely stop in one spot ..... Good luck!
The rotors and pads just got in, I will see them when I get home. Pins will take a little longer b/c of the order mix up but should have them by early next week.
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Hi!
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From: Central NJ
Oh jeez, this is turning into a much bigger job, but that’s ok, I want to do it right while I am working on it. Any specific type of brake fluid I should get? and am I replacing the fluid? b/c my reservoir is full I think.
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From: West Tx
Just DOT3 fluid. The Ford stuff is what I use. Even if your master cylinder is full, when you bleed them, you are going to open the hydraulic systems at the bleeder and flush the system. When you push your pistons back in to fit the new pads, make sure the master cylinder doesn't overflow or it will put brake fluid all over the main electrical harnesses below the reservoir.
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Don't forget to Re-Pack Your Wheel Bearings. &
One thing that is very important is to flush out all the old brake fluid, the old fluid is burnt, black, has water in it and will cause brake problems.
The Fluid should be flushed every year for sure, the One-Person Brake Bleeder by GriotsGarage is a great deal for 40.00. After you flush all the fluid, air out of the system, flush it again. It does not take that much fluid to do it twice and this way you know you got all the junk out.
I flush my brakes every year and they work great. I have never "Power-Braked" or beat my Rig so the fluid last the entire year with no breakdown.
It's amazing how after one year the brake fluid look like coffee when removed.
I think you did well getting the Cryo Rotors and hawk Pads, you will have a killer system.
My Brakes are about due for a R&R Pin Lube Job and Wheel Bearings Packing. & Inspection. I still have 75% left on these brakes.
Best,
Russ
One-Person Brake Bleeder
Reverse Brake Bleeder Kit
One thing that is very important is to flush out all the old brake fluid, the old fluid is burnt, black, has water in it and will cause brake problems.
The Fluid should be flushed every year for sure, the One-Person Brake Bleeder by GriotsGarage is a great deal for 40.00. After you flush all the fluid, air out of the system, flush it again. It does not take that much fluid to do it twice and this way you know you got all the junk out.
I flush my brakes every year and they work great. I have never "Power-Braked" or beat my Rig so the fluid last the entire year with no breakdown.
It's amazing how after one year the brake fluid look like coffee when removed.
I think you did well getting the Cryo Rotors and hawk Pads, you will have a killer system.
My Brakes are about due for a R&R Pin Lube Job and Wheel Bearings Packing. & Inspection. I still have 75% left on these brakes.
Best,
Russ
One-Person Brake Bleeder
Reverse Brake Bleeder Kit
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Central NJ
Cool thanks Russ, I will flush the whole system out.
Unfortunately the pin that got stuck was so badly frozen in that it broke when I was trying to pull it out. I drilled a small hole through the pin to help loosen it but no luck yet, I think I will have to drill the entire thing out tomorrow and possibly buy a new caliper slide pin bracket.
I took pictures but will not be able to put them up until tonight
Unfortunately the pin that got stuck was so badly frozen in that it broke when I was trying to pull it out. I drilled a small hole through the pin to help loosen it but no luck yet, I think I will have to drill the entire thing out tomorrow and possibly buy a new caliper slide pin bracket.
I took pictures but will not be able to put them up until tonight
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