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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

DPF Delete Question?

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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 08:23 PM
  #61  
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nomorecummins
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From: Santa Fe, NM
Originally Posted by gerbinator
give them a call rulon is the man very helpfull i put in there dpf r pipe and 4.0 today started at 12 45 and finished at 2 15 complete air tools of course and by myself the worst was staying in the truck for 25 min in 85 degree weather bring a phone, water, and some thing to do they told me everything needs to be off windows up and dont open door while programing so your caged but down load was easy and smooth I prob should have killed the cat to if you want more turbo noise but does sound better with stock exaust there full exaust system does have a muff dont remem brand ina couple days il have more input and prob some questions
Just got my DPF 4.0 in and my CAT/Delete pipe. Its says to, install the 4.0 first before the exhaust. Hmmm, I wonder why? I wanted to take the exhaust off first then install the programmer.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 08:46 PM
  #62  
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its just to be cautious in case programming prob then you dont have to take pipe back out to take to dealer i did it just be smart and follow instructions carefully I posted thread on my experience of install smooth 6.4 computers are very touchy sit still dont bump programer to unplug while in progress turn everything off roll up windows shut doors and dont move unless your asked to by programer your stuck for 25 min bring water cell phone and something to entertain your self make shure batts are charged and good
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 11:00 AM
  #63  
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nomorecummins
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From: Santa Fe, NM
Hmmm, so this morning I was so excited to install my DPF/CAT Delete pipe, but as soon as I started to remove the bolts of the CAT section I noticed that they were welded to the pipe. WTF? Any suggestions? My truck is a 2010, wonder if this is a new thing they started to do? I have a picture, but cant figure out how to post it...
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #64  
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astamp78
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From: Fremont, NE
Originally Posted by nomorecummins
Hmmm, so this morning I was so excited to install my DPF/CAT Delete pipe, but as soon as I started to remove the bolts of the CAT section I noticed that they were welded to the pipe. WTF? Any suggestions? My truck is a 2010, wonder if this is a new thing they started to do? I have a picture, but cant figure out how to post it...
I took my DPF/DOC off as one complete peice, I did not split the DOC from the DPF.

Remove all the sensors, they all unplug. Be careful with the pressure sensor, it is easy to break. (Also easy to replace after you break it) You can leave the sensors on, unplug them and take them off the DPF and DOC on the ground, but you risk bending / breaking them while handling the very heavy DPF/DOC.
Unbolt the hangers from the frame, unbolt the two bolt flange up front (loosen the nuts, the bolts are welded or pressed in - this will take an extensions and a swivel). Loosen the band clamp behind the DPF and work the two sections of pipe apart. I found that to be the hardest part.

Once you have the old section on the ground, it is easier to take the hangers off and install on the new delete pipe.

Hope that helps.

Make sure you have the exhaust change AND the programming done before starting the truck. Doing just one or the other and starting can be bad...puts the truck in limp mode.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 06:42 PM
  #65  
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Like Astamp said... take the cat and the dpf off as one piece. That way you don't need a new gasket between the two... I heard that gasket wasn't cheap! Also, use a lot of WD-40 and lube up the rubber hangers. This will make things much easier. Another set of hands will also make things easier. When we say that thing is heavy, we are not kidding. That section must weigh 80lbs There is actually a counter balance weight on it! So having someone else there to wrestle that big gorilla would be nice. When hanging the new pipe you will be suprised how much length there is with no support... but it holds nice and tight.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 12:16 PM
  #66  
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Did the DPF/CAT delete yesterday and all in all it was fairly easy. Took me about 3-hours because I was taking my time since it was my first time. When I have to put it back in though it will be much quicker. I used a ratchet strap to seperate the exhaust and it worked great. The only real problem I encountered was connecting the DPF delete pipe to the stock exhaust pipe; it just doesn't fit. I forced it as much as possible but it just doesn't go all the way in. Wish there was some instructions with the kit as well. Otherwise, staright forward and easy. I run the 250 tune and the power is just unfrikin believable. Left 100 foot patch of rubber trying to launch the truck.

About those nuts that are welded to the flange on the down pipe; found out the hard way they were welded when I was yoking on it with a breaker bar and stripped the nut trying to losen it .
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #67  
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capt caper
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Originally Posted by gerbinator
gear box z makes dpf-r 4.0 delete system only with no traceable programs doesnt flash your system for warrantee purpose truck will run better and u will see a little economy and better sound from turbo even with stock pipe all programers are traceable at ford for warrantee dont care what they say unless u want a race truck w no warrantee
GearBox has a new 4.0 Plus coming soon for Mileage increase's
 
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 09:55 PM
  #68  
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holy crap my eyes are bleeding.
good stuff guys.thanks!

oh.....the suggestion to change the oil every 1k miles.haven't you figured out the cost for that.not to mention the down time.yikes.
sorry,but i just had to comment on the suggestion.that's not the working mans way,on top of making them payments.holy cow,you know what the monthly cost to drive the truck would be,with it's currents fuel mileage,monthly payment,and oil changes every 1,000 miles as a method to keep the fuel out of the base to save the bottom end.....ouch.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 03:02 PM
  #69  
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caprang
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Im willing to take risks with warranty if I have a good product to start with. I tuned my 7.3 and never had an issue. If it broke, I would accept that. I was too nervous to tune my 6.0 because of the problems I was hearing about. Thank God for small favors. Bone stock blew a HG at 7k miles and lost 5 injectors over the next 5k miles until I got rid of it. Now the 6.4, I would love to tune it but some of the stories going around make me nervous. Yes, I accept responsibility for my actions, and thats why I am cautious. You handle a hard boiled egg different than a regular egg right? If either breaks I have to replace it but which one am I more likely to squeeze without fear of breaking? Knowing the HPFP is problematic and a tuner puts more stress on it makes me feel like I am just asking for an expensive repair.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:14 PM
  #70  
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
holy crap my eyes are bleeding.
good stuff guys.thanks!

oh.....the suggestion to change the oil every 1k miles.haven't you figured out the cost for that.not to mention the down time.yikes.
sorry,but i just had to comment on the suggestion.that's not the working mans way,on top of making them payments.holy cow,you know what the monthly cost to drive the truck would be,with it's currents fuel mileage,monthly payment,and oil changes every 1,000 miles as a method to keep the fuel out of the base to save the bottom end.....ouch.
I think the guys talking about 1000 mile oil changes might have their toungs in their cheeks. 5000 mile changes do seem to be in order though.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:27 PM
  #71  
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capt caper
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Depends on your driving habits for oil changes. I had my oil analyzed by Blackstone and had 4 % in my fuel. I only have 2500 K on my oil. If I waited to 5K to change the oil might have had 7 or 8 % ..Nothing wrong with my truck. Just my driving style. I'm changing my oil every 3k faithfully.
1000K might be dramatizing it but unless you do Blackstone reports one will never know how much oil/diesel he's running threw the motor.
Soon as my warranty is up I'm changing over to a dpf/cat delete. Which should be in about 1 year.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:08 PM
  #72  
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StanleyZ
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by capt caper
Depends on your driving habits for oil changes. I had my oil analyzed by Blackstone and had 4 % in my fuel. I only have 2500 K on my oil. If I waited to 5K to change the oil might have had 7 or 8 % ..Nothing wrong with my truck. Just my driving style. I'm changing my oil every 3k faithfully.
1000K might be dramatizing it but unless you do Blackstone reports one will never know how much oil/diesel he's running threw the motor.
Soon as my warranty is up I'm changing over to a dpf/cat delete. Which should be in about 1 year.
Your point is well made. If you think you are approaching that much fuel in the oil you might want to look around this site for a TSB or some other document from Ford which addresses excess oil or growing oil or whatever they want to call it. I read it last year right after I got my truck but I'm not sure exactly where it was. As I recall the issue will be resolved by ford under warranty if the oil level gets above the top of the dip stick head using the "short Stick" method. They define the short stick method as inserting the dipstick into the tube only until the end of the plastic rests on the top edge of the tube. I'm doing this from memory but I think that's pretty close. I check mine quite often and it goes quickly to above the plastic using a normal technique but never gets above the plastic using the short stick method. I can't figure out why it doesn't continue to grow but it doesn't.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #73  
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When I had Blackstone do the only sample I had them do (I'm going to one next change and some after it) I was idleing alot (warming up) because of our cold Northern NH winters. Also I have to sleep in the truck in between customers at times. I believe if your driving it hot for long periods and or live in warmer climates it may not leak oil past the rings and or regen as often.
 
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