No, I've got one built but haven't found time to put it on yet.

 

 

Anti-wrap bar works great and built it all for the low cost of free! Now just to get those overloads and crappy shocks outta there...

Figured I'd share a picture of the dual battery setup I put in the cab tool box. I wired the truck front to rear with 4-0 aluminum wire to accomodate the winch. Just have to find some large plugs for quick disconnects.

 

Looks like you pulled a late nite thrash showto get er on Bra! Lol

Got couple issues! Traction bar will work fine the way you got it but I think it's gonna limit your flex. The swing shackle is good but at the top end of bar instead of a bushing you really should have a threaded link so it can slightly twist in a tighten/ loosen motion to allow axle to twist.

Here what I did..





Other issue I got is that battery setup. Connecting them together like that WILL make them drain each other. From research I've done I found that unless batteries are same brand, age and size they feed off each other and drain each other. I would either run two same batteries or run a dual battery switch either like a marine style dial switch, isolator, or I run a painless 250 amp remote solenoid to disconnect from a toggle switch on dash.
Painless Performance: 250 Amp Dual Battery Current Control System
It's ok to have them together while running but after engine is off they need to be separate. That's why battery isolators have that name. They isolate the batteries. I like the switch so if my main is dead I flick to the aux. Trick is for the painless one is the power source to flick switch to go to aux needs to be wired to aux cuz if the main is dead , switch won't direct power from aux. I did this mistake first go around and had to run jumper cables to connect batteries together then flick switch.
Just trying to help if you didn't know this info..

 

Thanks for the heads up. At this point the rear suspension is far too stiff to flex so I can't test the bar for that yet. My plan was to run it like this for a while and swap to a heim if I get binding. I had all this stuff around the farm already so that's what it got. I have another red top I'm gonna swap in for the dual batteries. Hopefully they will live.

 

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No battery isolator?

 

I've never had luck with the bolt down style terminals. they always seem to corrode. and eventually get sporratic.

 

Another fix for wrap bar is a round slip tube. Small tube inside a bigger one. This will allow it to shorten/ lengthen for up and down suspension travel but also twist for flex. Trick is to find good snug fit tubes and put in a grease nipple. Threaded rod end is better!
Just to get your head spinning read this link on a bam bar

BamBar - Ultimate Anti-Wrap Solution - Jeepaholics Anonymous

For batteries even with two red tops I would still run a switch/ isolator

Marine is cheapest/ bulletproof no brainer solution
Marine Battery Switches - iboats

 

Are you using the manual isolator?

 

They're wired straight together. No issues so far.

 

Yeah I use marine style terminals with wing nuts. I solder on end lugs in a vise ,filling lug with solder and with mini torch boil then dunk cable. I use a solder with a high temperature melting point so if cables are getting hot from long winching/ starting uses the lug solder won't boil and fall off. Little details.
If you had a proper lug crimp that is best to avoid this problem
But that's a tool I don't own.

I made some custom battery boxes as well to lock em down as plastic lids are CRAP!
I have to be careful to not overtighten with 1/2 bolts to hold them down. Nuts are tacked under angle tabs

 

Im building that ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ soon. That looks great. Are you running a manual isolator?

 

I started soldering my connections a few years ago. I hate it when I get a 'new vechicle that someone has put the cheezy bolt down connectors on... I recently procured two industrial crimpers that I'm itching to try out. One looks bolt cutters, and the other looks like a drill.

 

I'm doing a refit/steel fabrication overhaul on a tug boat right now and one if the electricians was wiring a battery bank and he had some big crimps with different dies that could be swapped to crimp lugs on any size cable. Pretty sweet but also probably worth 3-500$

I run that painless switch. The toggles are on my dash

 

Here is one kinda like the one I have. It crimps with a few tons of pressure. Pipe nipples are no match for it!

The other is kinda like what your talking about the crimping dies rotate so you can crimp from like 4 ga to like 4/0. Amazing what you can get at pawn shops...