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Just how much heavier do you think rockwells are than trussed, sleeved, steerable 14 bolts?
Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
Maybe 6-700 lbs more with rockwells. Equivilant to about carrying another 4 people all the time.
really?
a full dressed front rockwell weighs just over 840lbs. the same axle narrowed with stock brakes removed is 660lbs. versus a full dressed front D60 at 605lbs.
a rear rock with brakes removed is 530lbs.
The top rpm range is. And as Kris said, 50 bigger cubes drop the rpms of the cam 500 rpms. So have to take the usable rpm range and drop it 500 rpms for ur application.
What's the reason you are set on a roller anyways? Than are you going hydrolic or solid?
subscribe! need some of the info later love the truck
Just FYI - the last post before yours is from September 2012 = old thread. I would be curious if there are any updates, also, but being over a year old I'd guess there isn't a whole lot of new info...
Sorry for the late response so much has changed this year but yes the truck is still in progress. I am abroad but when I get to a laptop I will post some progress pictures. Thanks for the interest. Let me know what questions you have and I'll try to help ya out anyway possible.
Back in the summer of 2013 the 460 started hammering so I pulled it and things just got out of hand from there. The plan was to just rebuild another block I had, but why stop there right? It's been slow go because I've since been hired with the FAA as an air traffic controller. The hiring process took a while and I needed to sell off some projects to prepare for the move. The truck is still currently on hold until I have spare money to throw at it. I'm hoping for a spring 2014 shake down.
I had picked out a Scat based stroker kit online for $1200 that came with a crank, rods, pistons, rings, and bearings. But the machine shop I use put together a setup for the same price with higher quality parts including the forged Scat crank, .30 over Mahle pistons, h bearings, h beam rods and cut to fit rings as well as all the necessary gaskets (Cometic head gaskets). I bought ARP head bolts and rod studs. He put the crank on the balancer and match weighed all the rods and pistons. Obviously the block got the full make over; bore, line bore, cam check, deck (no stroker clearance necessary). I found a set of mildly build d0ve heads because I didn't think messing with the sickly D3VE-A2A heads was worth while. I ended up working with a specialty guy at Comp Cams and had a custom cam ground. Its a hydraulic roller model and shipped with Elgin Pro Stock hydraulic roller lifters. I've yet to measure for push rods so rockers haven't been chosen. I've since lowered the truck some so I ordered the Ford Racing rear sump swap oil pan (M-6675-A460) and L&L in-frame exit long tube headers. Other upgrades include an aluminum Edelbrock intake manifold, aluminum valve covers my brother made, Holley mechanical fuel pump. I've decided not to go with propane and just stick with a carb until I win the lottery and can afford throttle body injection. I scored a full nitrous kit (carb plate model) for $125 on Craigslist as well. It's currently on my '73 F100 but was bought for the offroader. I took the transmission to the shop and had it rebuilt with more clutch packs, stock stall torque converter and a reverse valve body.
While the block was being checked, I pulled the cab and got to work on it as it was completely stock (unsafe). I ripped out every wire, insulation and plastic piece along with the seat and heater components. I found a pair of Corbeau offroad seats on Craigslist and ordered the correct mounting bracket. I also ordered a pair of racing harnesses and got started of a custom aluminum center console to house the Art Carr shifter, 12 switches, two 12 volt power sources, master cut off switch, starter button and two beer holders. The nitrous bottle mounts in between the passenger seat and console. I took out the heater controls and cut an aluminum panel to hold the Autometer gauges (oil pressure, water temp, trans temp and ammeter). The cab also got an aluminum fat grip steering wheel by Longacre. The rusty floors were repaired and I rolled bed liner in the floor and the back of the cab.
I also got started on a roll cage where the rear mount radiator will be attached and rock sliders. I will probably use the thunderbird electric fan "mod" to cool the radiator. Also for cooling I found that mid nineties civic condensers are a good size and have a nicely mounted electric fan are great for power steering and transmission coolers. I threw away the fenders and hood. I didn't like the rigged cut on the fenders and don't have to clear 53's anymore so they will be a more round cut and not as deep. The old hood was more rusty than what I wanted to repaint. I'm thinking about going with black for the whole truck.
Still much work to do and a few parts left to buy. I want to narrow the truck some by getting some beadlocks with more backspacing and get the 44" TSLs on it.
The '78 Bronco has been under the knife as well receiving a chop top and full cage. Also, it keeps doing dumb stuff like exploding nine inch chunks, so it's currently getting one tons and the 8 lug beadlocks that came with the TSLs I traded for the 53's.
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