Well I've cranked it and let it run a few times while trying to track down my oil leak. So far it's running fine, and I can't get it to come up with the P1277 anymore. For now, I'm going to drive it a ton this week and see if I can duplicate any more problems. I'm still not entirely sure what it could be.

And I do have the Walbro fuel pump, and also have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Fuel pressure is always steady, even when I've had the issues.

I may still end up doing that. After trying to track the oil leak, I went ahead and tore off the intercooler piping, spyder, and other stuff off the engine. So I still have quick access to the valve cover. I won't put it back together until tomorrow sometime.

I did try that once when it really kept running rough every time I cranked the motor. It didn't help. I plugged it back in, made a few more cranks, and eventually it started running right again on it's own.

Yeah, it's been frustrating the hell out of me.

I also have an HPOP gauge, so I can watch the ICP. So far I haven't noticed anything unusual with oil pressures.

I know the BARO on my 02 is in the PCM. However, even if that were not reading correctly, the engine would still run fine.

I guess the coming days will tell. One way or another, I'll figure out what's going on. Thanks for the suggestions though, and keep them coming. It gives me food for thought.

 

EOT will have an effect on timing and if the EOT sensor is going bad it will not throw a code just because it is not sending the correct temp. Just something else to consider.

 

Another update:

So far so good. I've done nothing about the starting/rough running issue since messing with the wiring on the injectors. It cranks up every time, and runs completely smooth. I don't know what happened. I'm going to drive it every day this week to see if anything else pops up. Otherwise, I'm leaving for Houston later in the week. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

I "think" I also fixed my oil leak problem. Seems that my SSHPX line was leaking at the seals. Not sure why that started all of a sudden. That was a booger to track down, since it refused to leak at idle as I had a mirror and flashlight on the engine looking to see where the oil was coming from. Anyway, I removed the HPX, and put the stock plugs back in and took it for a long drive. So far, no more oil leaks. Not sure yet if I'll put the HPX back in. I think I'll drive it around for a while without it and see what happens.

While I had everything apart, I decided finally to re-do my CCV mod. I bought a clear nylon screen T-filter, and rerouted the CCV hose back to the intake using the filter to trap the oil. I did notice that the blowby out of the oil fill tube was very much reduced, and the trap seems to be working to keep oil out of the intake. I also rigged a mount to put the trap in the engine bay next to the brake fluid reservoir. Makes for an easy under-the-hood check of the filter to see when it needs to be cleaned out. It's nice not to catch a whiff of the CCV gasses from time to time. I'll keep testing it to make sure it works out fine. Overall my initial impressions are "IT'S THE BOMB!!!!"

So yeah, that's where I sit now. Drinking Alaskan Amber from my kegerator on a Friday night after what is hopefully a job done. Next I'm going to do some more tweaking of my custom tunes, and use them to test drive towing a trailer from Denver to Houston. Should be fun. My goal is a 140 hp tune on stock injectors that can tow a trailer over any terrain while minimizing smoke and EGT's. I call it the "Ultimate Tune". It's getting closer!!!

 

What is this nylon T-filter and where would a guy find one

 

I based mine off of Cavitation's design. Here is the link to the thread. Post #5 is his picture album of the clear t-strainer, and post #12 is the list of materials he used.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...donaldson.html

Mine is slightly different. In his materials list he got parts from both McMaster-Carr and Industrial Specialties Mfg. Industrial Specialties just so happens to be here in the Denver area, and carries a t-strainer that is almost identical in design to the one from McMaster-Carr. So I paid them a visit, picked up a t-strainer and the necessary adapters, and brought it home and hooked it up.

For some odd reason, the part numbers are not on their website. The filter is the "standard strainer filter bowl", 1/2" female NPT, clear nylon bowl material. They have the SSF series bowls listed, but not the SMF series, which is what I got. The filter bowl part number is: SMF-12F-PP-40C. It requires two barb adapters, part numbers D12MCB-8 (I think, kinda hard to read the guy's handwriting). Anyway, the bowl was $13.64, and the adapters were $0.56 each.

I already had the clear vinyl hose from my existing CCV kit, as well as the elbow and clamps. I simply cut the hose and rerouted it so that I could mount the filter under the hood, and route the hose back to the intake.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the reply. I just had a discussion w/my neighbor (mech.) yesterday about a better way to keep oil out of my pipes. I'll check into it.

 

curtis, when you were troublshooting the intermittent start issue did you unplug the CPS and then plug it back in later?

 

Nope, never touched it the entire time.

 

OK, I was thinking that the CPS does not throw a code, so it, or the connector might be suspect.

Often in older rigs these sorts of problems are associated with corrosion or similar bad connections in the electrical connectors.

 

There are CPS codes. The question is, will one be present when there is a cps trouble?

Sometimes Yes, somtimes no.

P0340 - CMP - Camshaft position sensor - ckt. malfunction - Open/grounded circuit, sensor fault, short to power

P0341 - CMP - Camshaft position sensor - ckt. performance - Harness routing, charging circuit, sensor

P0344 - CMP Camshaft position sensor - ckt. intermittent - Harness routing, charging ckt., sensor, int. ckt., improper gap