Intermittent problem starting
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Yeah one time when it really wouldn't start at all I did some extended cranking, and didn't get any codes. It's odd that it won't trip any codes at all (other than my normal AIH delete and EBPV delete), and only pulls the P1277 with a buzz test or KOEO test. No other times will it display a P1277. No 1316 for the IDM, or anything else related.
What does your EOT read? Does it seem accurate? Could a biased sensor be adjusting the fueling and causing the no start or smoke sometimes? I'm guessing the fix is either going to be really simple or far out in left field.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
EOT reads normal. When the truck sits overnight it's reading about the same temperature as ambient. When the engine is warm, it's usually between 190-205. So at this point I don't suspect the EOT.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
Update:
I unpluged the wire from #7 injector and moved it to #5. The wire from #5 was too short to reach to #7 (forgot about that when I was creating my master plan of attack here). Anyway, I didn't care if #5 didn't reach, because I was wanting to trace the #7 wire to see if there was any change.
The result was the P1277 code went away on the buzz test, as AE thinks the #5 injector is actually #7 (it threw a code for having #5 unplugged instead). This tells me there's an injector solenoid problem on #7, not a wiring or IDM issue. Sound right to you guys?
So at minimum I'm looking at a new injector (again.... uggg). I'm tired of replacing injectors one at a time. I may talk to the wife later today and see about replacing all of them with a set of hybrids, and tune them to a safe HP level for PMR's. We'll see, money is a bit tight.
In the mean time, I've noticed an oil leak that was sporatic, has now developed into a pretty bad leak as of yesterday. So that's something else I need to track down.
Fun stuff.
I unpluged the wire from #7 injector and moved it to #5. The wire from #5 was too short to reach to #7 (forgot about that when I was creating my master plan of attack here). Anyway, I didn't care if #5 didn't reach, because I was wanting to trace the #7 wire to see if there was any change.
The result was the P1277 code went away on the buzz test, as AE thinks the #5 injector is actually #7 (it threw a code for having #5 unplugged instead). This tells me there's an injector solenoid problem on #7, not a wiring or IDM issue. Sound right to you guys?
So at minimum I'm looking at a new injector (again.... uggg). I'm tired of replacing injectors one at a time. I may talk to the wife later today and see about replacing all of them with a set of hybrids, and tune them to a safe HP level for PMR's. We'll see, money is a bit tight.
In the mean time, I've noticed an oil leak that was sporatic, has now developed into a pretty bad leak as of yesterday. So that's something else I need to track down.
Fun stuff.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,340
Likes: 2
You can replace just the solenoid portion of the injector. I've seen them on ebay before. If you go that route I would swap the solenoid just to make sure it's not another part of the injector. From my understanding a buzz test only tests the solenoid.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
Well crap.
Just for giggles I plugged everything back in as normal and ran another buzz test. This time, no codes, nothing. It showed everything was fine.
When I took the valve covers off I checked the UVC harness as well as the wiring on #7 injector. Everything was seated good and tight.
So if this is an intermittent problem, I guess I'll have to drive it around and see if the problem happens again before pulling the trigger on a new injector or set of injectors.
Hmmmmmm.......
Just for giggles I plugged everything back in as normal and ran another buzz test. This time, no codes, nothing. It showed everything was fine.
When I took the valve covers off I checked the UVC harness as well as the wiring on #7 injector. Everything was seated good and tight.
So if this is an intermittent problem, I guess I'll have to drive it around and see if the problem happens again before pulling the trigger on a new injector or set of injectors.
Hmmmmmm.......
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 2
From: East Peoria, IL
this is true. just grab a solenoid
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
Yeah I may do just the solenoid too.
For now I'm going to track down my oil leak, fix that, and then put everything back together and drive my truck for a while to see if the problem comes back.
For now I'm going to track down my oil leak, fix that, and then put everything back together and drive my truck for a while to see if the problem comes back.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,340
Likes: 2
I would swap the solenoid and leave it on another injector before you put things back together.
Snowboard season cometh..
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 1
From: Gulf Coast of Florida
If you do need to do injectors, why not go with Stage 1's? You'll save $1500-ish right there. Either set will need new tunes, right, but even with the cost of new tunes, you're still $1000+ ahead of hybrids.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I still don't think your issues fit a soleniod or IDM issue. A bad soleniod will not prevent the truck from starting, even if it shuts down the entire bank. Your description of running rough and smoking isn't consistent with a bad soleniod, maybe a nozzle, but that would not be intermittent. Smoke while cranking during a no start means the IDM is doing it's thing, ICP climbs, fuel issues with an electric pump (don't you have a different pump?) don't make sense, so I'm leaning toward a biased sensor somewhere.
I can't explain the #7 code, but for just 4 torx screws, I'd swap the #5 & #7 solenoids just to help rule things out. We've seen some strange things with the ICP sensor before, for grins next time you've got a no start or bad start, try unplugging that just to see if it makes a difference.
EOP sensor seems to be working properly. What other sensors affect timing that might not throw a code because they don't know they're wrong? You've got a black CPS, right? Is altitude anything that is affecting this? How much change in timing can a bad BARO cause?
I can't explain the #7 code, but for just 4 torx screws, I'd swap the #5 & #7 solenoids just to help rule things out. We've seen some strange things with the ICP sensor before, for grins next time you've got a no start or bad start, try unplugging that just to see if it makes a difference.
EOP sensor seems to be working properly. What other sensors affect timing that might not throw a code because they don't know they're wrong? You've got a black CPS, right? Is altitude anything that is affecting this? How much change in timing can a bad BARO cause?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
