Saw this in a farm newspaper and thought it could be used for a CCV mod with some alterations. It would get rid of the oil smell and recover the oil. Since we don't have an oil return line from the turbo, could it be plumbed in to an open port on the block if there is one? I called for a price but have to go through a "certified distributor" so isn't available locally. This thing may be too big to fit easily where it would be able to drain into the oil pan. Just something to think about.

http://www.donaldson.com/en/exhaust/...ary/061798.pdf

 

Interesting find there Mark. I wonder what the cost is? Might be a little too sophisticated for this cat though.

 

Thats a pretty nice looking design. I built something similar, and based of the design Clux had origionally made. I just havent put mine into service yet haha. Using 2" pvc, capped at both ends. The feed goes about 2" up the tube, and the suction line directly off the top, and back into the intake. Then you stuff SS scouring pads inside. That catches most the oil, and then the air continues into the intake. Keeping the crank case still under vacuum. Then you would occaisionally have to open the drain in the bottom, to let the caught oil out. But it may prove to be a good idea to find a port in the block to drain it back into like they have done. If donaldson makes it, Im sure its a very very nice product.

 

I did read that there is a check valve in the oil drain line to prevent the intake from sucking oil backwards. I have read about some of the brothers' oil catching containers and now you can buy a high priced (probably) one. You guys were on the cutting edge of that development.

 

That is an interesting alternative to the popular 4500 or 6000 Racor setup. Never seen that one before. Here is the setup I ended up going with:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - cavitation's Album: Closed system CCV re-route

 

Could you maybe do a T into the dipstick tube, or one of the valve covers? Of course, this would assume the coalesced oil is gravity driven as the pressure required to push the oil up may exceed the available maximum drive pressure from the incoming vapors...You may be able to make room around the 'dog house' and drain it into the valve cover. If not, some sort of fitting at the oil pan may work as well.

 

Some Cats use a simliar design on some of their engines. Some do route the filtered air to atmosphere (or intake for those emissions savvy units), and the oil is returned to the crankcase.

 

"2009 Emissions Control Dealer" cost sheet shows $620 for one for a School Bus. I would imagine that resale would be close to $1000 especially if you added a spare filter.

EDIT: OH, $723.33 if you get it with a "catch bottle"..... OMG

 

Holy cow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That right there is highway robbery! Does it least come with a Banks sticker so you get an extra 50 hp?

 

who is the manuf.?

 

Got a shopping list for that stuff.... as in where to pick it up????

I've been wanting to build my own, and your homemade setup is top notch!!!

 

Pocket - Here is your build list. Let me know if you have any questions or would like a couple additional photos of anything.

Materials -

Item: Canister/Nylon T-Strainer
Company: McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
Part #: 9875K221
Price: $29.27

Company: Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Item: Nylon 1.5 inch male to 1 inch female reducer (quantity 2)
Part #: NC-24-16 (Price $1.87 each)

Company: Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Item: Nylon 1”x 1” straight male threaded (quantity 1)
Part #: N16MCB-16 (Price $1.12)

Company: Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Item: Nylon 1”x 1” male barb 90 degree one end threaded elbow (quantity 1)
Part #: N16MEB-16 (Price $1.26)

Company: Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Item: Nylon “1 x 1” male barb 90 degree elbow (quantity 1)
Part #: N16EUB-16 (Price $1.44)

Home Depot items
1” inside diameter straight brass barb, only need 1. (connects return hose to L shaped intake short rubber hose)

1” copper 90 degree copper fittings, only need 2. (one to connect reversed dog house to hose and one for return path route to connect to intake.)

Hose specs -
Approx 13 feet of 1” inside diameter rubber hose if mounting unit in the frame rail location I used. I used Gates Premo flex petroleum rated hose but Parker petroleum rated hose is good stuff as well. Don't use common heater hose.

 

That is one sofisticated setup, thanks for sharing..

 

Wow, thanks!!! I'm going to check on that stuff.

 

Hey Nic, Do you know CAT's? I got a weird problem with my 420D at the moment. Will be working on it today but if the "dummy" fixes don't work, sure could use some knowledge......