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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

wierd knock under load....

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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 09:24 PM
  #61  
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its not that big. only a 7/8 i thought. plugs out will help too
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 09:29 PM
  #62  
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im a bout 98% sure i dont have a 7/8ths inch socket..
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #63  
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What gives you the indication that motor was rebuilt?

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:08 PM
  #64  
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How clean the lifters and head is..or is that not a rebuilt motor??
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:29 PM
  #65  
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by the looks of the picture no. could have been rebuilt but i would say a while ago. is it burning any oil?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:31 PM
  #66  
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No, not burning any oil actually the oil is on the threads of the plugs but not on the plug itself...
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:31 PM
  #67  
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The harmonic balancer bolt is 15/16ths on my 400 (may or may not be the
same on your 351W).
Originally Posted by '83f3fiddy
whatcha think???
You're gonna have to peer INTO the void surrounded by the springs. What you
want to determine is if valve stem seals have been installed; here is what a
valve looks like with the black, rubber seal installed (rocker, spring & retainer
removed:

 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #68  
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I agree it might have been rebuilt, but it was a little while ago, the motior should be well broke in. My guess would be changing the valve seals, they run $20-30. With a valve spring compressor they are pretty easy to change, they make ones for use with either the head off or on. The engine looks pretty good though, nice and clean.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #69  
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Ahhh ok sweet I'll go look for them tomorrow...but I think something bad happened cause like I said it started up after I towed my friends Sti...
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:36 PM
  #70  
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The seals might have been getting hard and when you put it under a load you might have ran more rpms then they were use to and they started to come apart.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #71  
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I would do a compression test before replacing any parts.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:48 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by '83f3fiddy
No, not burning any oil actually the oil is on the threads of the plugs but not on the plug itself...
Wait a minute... I thought we were checking for the source of oil INSIDE the
combustion chambers! If the oil is on the threads only, that generally indicates a
leaking valve cover gasket.

 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 10:54 PM
  #73  
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wow I didn't catch that either, if its on the outside it's not a big deal, most likely a leaky valve cover. Or I've seen it when the plugs were not tightened down, but that usually sprays everything.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 11:21 PM
  #74  
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Ok, I just finally got to see the pictures on a machine that shows them better then mine, They are very dark on my desktop, So I stole the ol'ladys work laptop. Shhhh ...

Now that I see the plugs, They are NOT oil wet as I thought, Yes they are black, not oily.

It's running pretty rich on the plugs in those images.

The oil on the plugs bases could be simply a rocker cover leak.

The broken plug likely was broke during removal, else it would have been in the wire boot.

Everything I see in the rocker area looks fine, A little dirty but fine, I have seen far worse.
It's been awhile since that motor has been apart.

Thats NOT to say it's junk, I don't see anything yet that says ... It's BROKE!

I have not gone back and re-read everything, however IIRC you said it doesn't smoke...
That pretty much eliminates valve guide seals.

IMO you need to find a plug to replace the broken one, get the covers back on and go through the plug wire pulling routine, this is for a reason ... This can point out many things. Good or bad.

If you need to load the motor to get it to knock, do it, Emergency Brake Set, Chocks in place, Driver in truck holding brakes, Put it in gear ... Now start pulling wires one at a time, listen, put it back, then the next.

As I've stated several times and so have others you really need to do a compression test before you pull anything apart. Don't cost yourself any more than needed.

A little step by step diagnosis work could save you from digging in deeper than needed or replacing parts and not fixing it.

[edit]
You all beat me while I was composing ... bah!
[/edit]

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 11:29 PM
  #75  
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thats just the thing, there is NO oil on the block, or header, or any where near the plug holes ill steal my mom's 10MP camera tomorrow and get some sweet pics of the area so you can see..oh and i also take the motor to around 3500RPM before making it shift up whether towing, or just cruising with out a load..and iv tried everything to re-do it in my drive way and i can only get the knocking sound while im on the road
 
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