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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

wierd knock under load....

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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 11:56 AM
  #46  
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Festus Hagen
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125 miles on that oil ... Wow!

I've got gas motors out there with thousands of miles on them and you cannot tell the difference between drained oil and new oil! A friend uses my drain oil in his car.

I am an **** clean freak when it comes to my workmanship.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 12:07 PM
  #47  
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well according to how hard it was to get the flippin oil filter off (had to use a 10 lb HAMMER) it hadnt been changed in a loong time

Edit: how do you keep the oil THAT clean??
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #48  
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Well the oil will get dirtier faster if there is blow-by and if the engine has recently been rebuilt it will get dirtier faster as well, that is why they say to change the oil several times in the first 5000 miles for break-in. Also bad valve seals will cause them to get oil fouled as well. The plugs will be black because they are detonating, fire makes things black I'm not sure how many miles are on the truck, but its possible it is not broke in yet. And if it was rebuilt you don't know how it was rebuilt, if they just threw new rings in it or actually had the cylinders machined.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 12:26 PM
  #49  
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well im gonna take that head off one of these days so ill be able to tell...and whats it cost for valve seals??? and the ODO says 37,302 tho i dunno if there is a 0,1,2,3 before that...the title says 36,855 and i don't think a government issues title would be wrong...especially since the fire department owned it prior but that motor is 27 years old..and was in swamps
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #50  
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Festus Hagen
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Start with a clean motor, Quality dino oil, quality filter, frequently changed.

It is essential to change the oil after the cam break in at first startup ... then change again after short run to warm up, Then at 100 miles, then 600 miles, then 2000 miles and 3000/3500 miles for the rest of it's life, After 5000 miles I'll allow the switch to a good Synthetic and no going back to dino.

I personally use dino ... No synthetic motor oil.
Synthetic's absorb a lot of heat, yet do not dissipate it very well.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by '83f3fiddy
well im gonna take that head off one of these days so ill be able to tell...
Do a compression check before you do pull the head.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 04:49 PM
  #52  
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I'd pull the valve cover and have a look, maybe the rebuilder forgot valve seals on that head or something stupid
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #53  
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when i had both covers off they look exactly the same.. and this is new cause before i pulled my friends STi both sides were dry and plugs were white...and now teh passenger side is oily and black and the driver side is dry and dark tan
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 05:34 PM
  #54  
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I'd still look again, MAYBE something is blocking the return holes and the vc is filling up. You'll also be looking a lot closer this time I assume, since you werent having the problem last time you looked
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 05:36 PM
  #55  
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yeah true...but i dont have the money for a new gasket..
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 05:48 PM
  #56  
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WOW, times ARE tuff! What's a set of gaskets, like 5-6 bucks?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 05:53 PM
  #57  
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and im like -50 >_<
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #58  
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whatcha think???



 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #59  
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did you try rolling the motor over by hand like that to watch everything move. you may have a prob with the lifters
 
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Old Apr 23, 2010 | 09:19 PM
  #60  
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i dont know if i have a big enough socket for that motor...and i dunno if i can turn that motor by hand....
 
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