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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

LMC glass run inserts

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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 11:34 PM
  #1  
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From: Lost
LMC glass run inserts

I just happened to go to KC last weekend, and stopped by LMC to pick up some glass run (window channel rubber) for my truck. (also visited their sister company, black dragon, for some RX7 parts)
I got the chance to put them in today. I must say, install was rather simple, once the old rock-hard stuff was all chipped out. Well, what was left of 30 year old stuff, anyways.....
I did have trouble getting them to fit right at the joint between the wing window and door, but they seal good. I dunno if it's just me, or the way they're made.
One thing that also made the install a bit more difficult, my truck has the old school stainless vent visors, and it was a bit hard to get the rubber to seat correctly around them.

Best of all, for the first time in years, I can drive the truck without having the windows rattle and hear loud wind noise. That alone was well worth the $43 invested, and 2-3 hours it took to install.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 02:47 AM
  #2  
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From: Spokane washington
right on brotha! i need to do the same myself... my passenger wing window sounds like a deer whistle going down the highway
 
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Old Oct 30, 2010 | 09:56 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
I just happened to go to KC last weekend, and stopped by LMC to pick up some glass run (window channel rubber) for my truck. (also visited their sister company, black dragon, for some RX7 parts)
I got the chance to put them in today. I must say, install was rather simple, once the old rock-hard stuff was all chipped out. Well, what was left of 30 year old stuff, anyways.....
I did have trouble getting them to fit right at the joint between the wing window and door, but they seal good. I dunno if it's just me, or the way they're made.
One thing that also made the install a bit more difficult, my truck has the old school stainless vent visors, and it was a bit hard to get the rubber to seat correctly around them.

Best of all, for the first time in years, I can drive the truck without having the windows rattle and hear loud wind noise. That alone was well worth the $43 invested, and 2-3 hours it took to install.
Any tips for install? I hit a snag on mine today when I couldn't run my power windows down out of the way. Rough fitting the rubber in place, I was surprised to see how far down the seal goes. Is running the window all the way down the best way to get the entire channel in place? Did yours window channel rubbers seem a bit to big along the leading/front edge of the window along the angled portion? One more question, did your channel strips have a 90 degree bend in them? Mine do and I'm assuming that bend must go at the top rear 90 degree bend in the window channels. Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 07:58 AM
  #4  
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broncograveyard.com has the full 6 piece set for $60
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 08:08 AM
  #5  
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i had to use some weaterstrip adheasive on my buddys 79 in order for them to stay put. Every time you rolled down the window the belt molding would start to droop
 
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #6  
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From: Enterprise, AL
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
I just happened to go to KC last weekend, and stopped by LMC to pick up some glass run (window channel rubber) for my truck. (also visited their sister company, black dragon, for some RX7 parts)
I got the chance to put them in today. I must say, install was rather simple, once the old rock-hard stuff was all chipped out. Well, what was left of 30 year old stuff, anyways.....
I did have trouble getting them to fit right at the joint between the wing window and door, but they seal good. I dunno if it's just me, or the way they're made.
One thing that also made the install a bit more difficult, my truck has the old school stainless vent visors, and it was a bit hard to get the rubber to seat correctly around them.

Best of all, for the first time in years, I can drive the truck without having the windows rattle and hear loud wind noise. That alone was well worth the $43 invested, and 2-3 hours it took to install.
I sent you a PM, but in case this gets your attention faster I'd really, really appreciate some help with doing this job on my truck. I'm having a bit of trouble...
 
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 10:48 PM
  #7  
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Replied to the PM. The popup for the PM always gets my attention faster than almost anything.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 06:03 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Replied to the PM. The popup for the PM always gets my attention faster than almost anything.
Got it. Thanks. I'll give what you suggest a shot when I get off of work today. I appreciate it!
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #9  
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From: Hatfield Ar.
window rubbers

I did mine a couple weeks ago. I Put it on wrong the first time, the part with the most felt on it before the 90 goes down the wing channel the 90 works into the wing channel and top of door channel . I removed the door panel rolled down the window pulled /chipped out the old hard rubber lubed the channel pushed the rubber down into the wing channel you might have to help it threw the door opening use the window to help guide the rubber and seat it. Then do the same on the back channel to where the cutouts stop at the corner of the window. Then work in the top using the window to seat the rubber into the channel. I used spray silicone lube for the channels and 1/8 pop rivets for the inside wiper part. Went pretty good that is how a body shop friend told me to do it.
Hope it helps
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 07:08 PM
  #10  
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It's easier to work into place if you take 2-3 screws of the upper potion of the wing window and the lower bolt on the wing frame. The door glass doesn't NEED to come out, but it can at that point.
Yes, there should be a molded corner about 1/3 of the way, that goes into the junction of the wing window frame, with the shorter end going down the wing side frame.
With window loose/removed, the rubber can easily be put into place without any need for lube. I only needed a bit of WD-40 at the upper rear curved corner, and that was mainly due to my stainless ventvisors making the gap a hair narrower than normal.
Drove my truck across town today, with 20-30 MPH crosswinds. Quiet as a churchmouse. Even quieter than when I later made the same trip in my newer Nissan pickup, though that was partly due to having the rear 1/4 glass popped open. It was quiet inside the old truck, that I actually wished I had a radio. Took that out nearly 6 years ago, as I couldn't hear it anyways........
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 07:40 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
It's easier to work into place if you take 2-3 screws of the upper potion of the wing window and the lower bolt on the wing frame. The door glass doesn't NEED to come out, but it can at that point.
Yes, there should be a molded corner about 1/3 of the way, that goes into the junction of the wing window frame, with the shorter end going down the wing side frame.
With window loose/removed, the rubber can easily be put into place without any need for lube. I only needed a bit of WD-40 at the upper rear curved corner, and that was mainly due to my stainless ventvisors making the gap a hair narrower than normal.
Drove my truck across town today, with 20-30 MPH crosswinds. Quiet as a churchmouse. Even quieter than when I later made the same trip in my newer Nissan pickup, though that was partly due to having the rear 1/4 glass popped open. It was quiet inside the old truck, that I actually wished I had a radio. Took that out nearly 6 years ago, as I couldn't hear it anyways........
I took your advice today and did just what you had described and it worked out great. It was easy just like you said. I was overlooking removing the vent window frame. Thanks very much for the help!
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Taking that vent window frame loose really makes a lot of difference in the ease of replacing this rubber. Granted, it's a hair more involved than not taking it loose, but with the rubber being ~25-30 years old, it doesn't want to come off/out very easy.
A newer vehicle would likely be much easier to do this on, without loosening the vent/wing window frame.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #13  
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From: Enterprise, AL
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Taking that vent window frame loose really makes a lot of difference in the ease of replacing this rubber. Granted, it's a hair more involved than not taking it loose, but with the rubber being ~25-30 years old, it doesn't want to come off/out very easy.
A newer vehicle would likely be much easier to do this on, without loosening the vent/wing window frame.
Exactly. Every single inch of mine had to be chipped out one fragment at a time. There were not strips that came out.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 05:25 PM
  #14  
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I did this last year.
It's SO nice to close the door or go over bumps and not have the window rattle.
The cab is not only quieter but much warmer in winter.

I also took that opportunity to add a large piece of adhesive backed foil faced mass damping sound deadner inside each door skin.
The truck sounds much more solid and road noise is reduced.
 
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