When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes, but quieting it down is a by-product of not running air through it. Some people notice a big difference and some only notice a little. Depends on the person.
I had a regular AD in #8 so putting in an aftermarket fuel return quieted mine down to the point you can't really hear any cackle, only the clatter of my early 99 TC.
Before Clay came out with the FRx I installed the DFA CCK. If I were to choose between the two now I would go with the FRx for it's value and easier installation. Opening up the dead end rail and getting more fuel to #8 will also lengthen it's life because it will be getting better lubed as well. A 400 to 600 dollar RR is fine if you want to spend the money, or it's your style, or if you want to go beyond 450 HP. Personally my pockets aren't that deep, it isn't my style and 400 HP is my goal and the fuel return I have wil not get in the way of that. My 2¢.
I've mentioned this before, but the engine noise (including #8 cackle) is affected by several different factors. Any particular combination can produce varying amounts of cackle reduction.
1. Air in fuel system (primarily from leaking connectors on the suction side of the fuel pump, but can also be recirculated air that goes to the "mixing chamber" on the fuel pickup plumbing). The fix here is twofold... elimination of the quick-connect fittings on the fuel lines between the tank and the fuel pump, and the removal of the mixing chamber on the pickup system in the tank - redirecting the fuel return flow away from the pump.
2. Pressure imbalances in the fuel rails (designed that way by Ford). This is what creates teh potential for insufficient fuel flow to the #8 injector, and the fix is either a full Regulated Return system or either the CCK (from Jason at DFA) or FRx (from Clay at Riffraff) kits.
3. The type of engine oil used. Synthetics with extreme pressure additives can make a noticeable difference in the overall sound of the engine, especially when using a 5w40 fully synthetic which is made from PAO base stocks.
4. The quality and type of fuel used. Many have heard the difference in engine sound when running bioDiesel. A high quality fuel additive which truly makes big differences in fuel lubricity can also have a similar impact, as many have noticed.
5. Obviously, there are other things like aftermarket injectors, HPOP, programming, etc. which can also have an affect on engine noise, but most of us here aren't even thinking about engine cackle or noise when those items come into play.
Best one for who? Is it the best one for the guy on a strict budget? Is it the best one for the guy who will never see 400hp and stays with the stock sticks?
i dont have a strict budget, i just want the best, i refuse to waste my time and money on inferior products. ive ordered almost everything i have through ITP so it doesnt suprise me. not saying other kits arent as good, but i need to know my money is being well spent. i will probably upgrade injectors at some point, but with PMR's im a bit limited anyway.
Best one for who? Is it the best one for the guy on a strict budget? Is it the best one for the guy who will never see 400hp and stays with the stock sticks?
ITP's kit is the best thought out, best put together, using the best parts and the best hard lines.
ITP's kit is the best thought out, best put together, using the best parts and the best hard lines.
Its like the factory system, only better.
I don't know what ITP's line are made out of but that parker line that DI uses is hydraulic hose. It's the same stuff I use on the hydraulics on my skid steers and articulating loaders. It's about as heavy as you can go and still retain flexibility.
The ITP kit is nice.. but awful pricey. For $400 I could build my own RR that will have the same quality as ITP..