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I have the Aeromotive 13109 with the #6 ORB ports. I used #6 steel pushlock and AN fittings with a nylon braided hose (synthetic inner liner) and Otiker clamps. I then covered them with wire loom to prevent chafing. I have a compression type adaptor fitting on the fuel tank suction tube that converts to AN. Almost all of my connections are AN and easily removed in case a hose needed repair or replacement. I did reuse the stock return line and hoses from the engine lower left steel line back to the tank.
I have the Aeromotive 13109 with the #6 ORB ports. I used #6 steel pushlock and AN fittings with a nylon braided hose (synthetic inner liner) and Otiker clamps. I then covered them with wire loom to prevent chafing. I have a compression type adaptor fitting on the fuel tank suction tube that converts to AN. Almost all of my connections are AN and easily removed in case a hose needed repair or replacement. I did reuse the stock return line and hoses from the engine lower left steel line back to the tank.
I like the idea of diy, but would spend as much if not more than Clay's Frx, by the time I did lines and all. Not wanting to ditch the fuel bowl ? so how well does Clay's do compared to a more elaborate regulated system?
I like the idea of diy, but would spend as much if not more than Clay's Frx, by the time I did lines and all. Not wanting to ditch the fuel bowl ? so how well does Clay's do compared to a more elaborate regulated system?
Prior to going to my current system, I had the stock bowl and lines with a DIY "FRx" and modified Diesel Innovations billet FPR housing to plumb in the Aeromotive regulator. I noticed my biggest inmprovement in hp and tq when I went with the bowl delete and larger lines. The reason I went with the adjustable setup was that my Walbro fuel pump flowed more volume than the stock type FPR could handle and caused a higher fuel pressure than desired. My system is 3/8" all the way to the heads and back to the return at the front of the engine.