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I have a 1970 F100 with a 390 and a 4bbl carburetor. The carb that is on it now is an Edelbrock 750. This seems a little much for the motor but it was given to me by a freind so I put it on. I do tow a boat once in a while but most of the time it is just regular street driving. I get about 8mpg which I would like to improve on. Does anyone have any suggestions for a different carb that would give me better gas mileage and maybe more power. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
You may be over carburated..
Iam running a 1406 edlebrock carb and manifold...
390 FE Let me know what carb # you have and maby I can help you further!!
FN, you carb is too big a 600 cfm is plenty large. What kind od milage were you getting before, you installed it. I am being more convinced that the two barrel might be better. The FEs don't starve for gas with them.
What size rears are you running and is it a 2X4 or 4X4.
John
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.
I had a Holley 650 in the truck before I replaced it with the 750 and got about 11 mpg. The truck is a 2x4 but I really do not know what gears I am running in the rear. (How would I find that out?)
I have been contemplating putting a 2 bbl back on the truck but did not know the pros and cons of it.
Yuo can figure out your gear ratio from the door tag if the rear-end is original. Post the axle code on the tag and the year of your truck. If the rear-end is not original it may be possibly to find a tag on the differential with the id info. If so post that too. There are only two other ways: one is to take the differential apart and look at the numbers on the ring gear; the other is to estimate the ratio by turning the drive shaft and watching a wheel spin. Rear gearing is a ratio between input turns in rleation to the output turning the wheel. For instance, a ratio of 4.56 will require 4.56 turns of the drive shaft to equal 1 turn of the wheel.
I had a 390 rebuilt to stock specs once and decided I wanted a 650 holley on it. I had a lot of problems with it, so I switched it out for a stock 2BBL. The mileage, performance, and reliability all increased. No shortage of power whatsoever, that truck could pass annything but a gas station. 11 mpg on the interstate, downhill, with a tailwind - empty or loaded.
As for rear ends - Jack up one rear wheel. Put a chalk mark on the driveshaft. Rotate the rear wheel one complete revolution and count the number of turns the d/s makes. It should get you pretty close. A 3:08 in a 1/2 ton with 235/15's should run out about 2200 rpm, or a 3:73 in a 3/4 ton with 235/16's should do about the same 2200.
For the rear gear ratio, I think you turn the wheel twice and count the number of driveshaft turns. If its only once then I have a 1.50 gear ratio and I know thats not right. Also, if you have a tach, run the truck to 60 mph and post rpms and tire size.
As I recall it matters if you have a locking axle and whether or not both wheels are off the ground if it's an open diff. I should probably jack my truck up and try this sometime.
You may also find a tin tag with ID info on the differetial itself although probably really greasy and in need of a lot of cleaning. I have a 9inch in my 76 2wd that originally had a 300/3sp. That tag is on the front passenger side of the "third member". I took the numbers and a wrecking yard ID'ed the numbers as a 31 spline 3.50 gearing. I also have a 69/4sp 2wd that has a Dana rear end. I haven't found the tag but I jacked it up (both wheels off the ground) and marked the driveline and the tire. I discovered that both wheels turn together on this rear end and that there were about 3 1/2 turns of the driveline to one wheel turn. For kicks, I did the same test on the 9inch and it appeared to turn 3 1/2 times as well (3.50). Both wheels definitely didn't turn together on the 9inch. I'm still not sure what the rear in my 69 is and I would be skeptical of a door tag as the door isn't original and there is evidence of a lot of swapping on the truck. How do you ID Dana rearends? There does appear to be a cast number on the upper back edge adjacent to the rear cover.
Thanks for all the help. I think I am going to try a smaller carb first as I can use some from friends. If that does not work I will probably go back to the 2bbl carb. The only thing I have to do if I do go back to the 2bbl is find a manifold.
Thanks again!