The carburetor on my 240 six was a piece of junk. Thought I could maybe rebuild it or something, but on close examination I found that the body of the carburetor was actually cracked so I tossed it out.

Looked around for something else to put on there, and thought I would try the carb off the parts truck that I've got out here. Not sure what year or make this carburetor is, but it was mounted on a small six / 223.

Had to file the mounts out a little bit to get in on the truck, but once on, the truck seemed to run well. Problem is, it will not run with the choke open. What baffles me is that the truck seems to run well with the choke closed. It will accelerate and operate normally. However, If I open the choke, the truck begins gasping and will shut off if I try to accelerate (even when the truck has warmed up). Is this just a problem of a bad match of carburetor to motor, or might this still work somehow? Maybe the jets are too small for the big six? I have tried the air fuel mixture at every adjustment and it seems to make little or no difference. This seems to be a simple carburetor, and there is only one adjustment screw on it. Unless anyone has a good suggestion, I guess I'll have to go out and buy a new carb.

Thanks for any help & suggestions,

-Luke

 

Do you really have a 240 in a 63? Just want to make sure we are talking about the correct engines here.

The small autolite 1100 which is what would most likely be on the 223 is pretty undercarbed for a 240, but I would think it would run ok at idle and just loose the top end. I wonder if the carb has a stuck needle or some other internal malady (maybe junk in the jets?).

In any case, you are really not going to get decent performance from the 240 with a small 1100 autolite. Why not try and find a Carter YF off of ebay or get a remaned one. Get one with an autochoke if you like, or a manual one -- you'll need to do a little work on the bracket that holds the choke cable on, but otherwise a Carter YF is a bolt up for the Autolite 1101 that your 240 originally had, or at least should have had if you have a 65 or 66 truck.

Get me some more details and I may be able to help more. I have learned quite a lot about these old carbs in the last year or two.

 

Yes, it is a 240. There are some pics in my gallery if you want to take a look. I didn't do the conversion, but it is nice.

The suggestion of the stuck needle seems like a possiblity, but would that not also affect the way the carburetor acted with the choke closed? Like I wrote in my first post, when the choke is closed I have full acceleration, & the top end seems good, though I don't dare take it too far from home at this point. But when the choke is open, it is as though I am getting nothing but air. It's like air is getting in from somewhere else, though I have searched and found nothing.

I agree that a new carter would be the best solution, but I am closing on a house this month and I absolutely can't spend any money. However, I need to get the truck from the old house to the new one, so it's either a tow job, a new carb, or get this thing working halfway decent. I would prefer the last choice, because it won't cost me anything.

The carb seems to be functioning properly, so I'm not going to dissassemble it yet, but that is looking inevitable....

-Luke

 

sounds like you have a good vacuum leak
check all hoses and gaskets by spraying with carb cleaner
also check all screws on the carb, they will loosen and allow a leak
through the carb
if needed i have a YF carb you can have cheap

 

I have no idea what kind of carb that is that you are trying to get to work, or at least the one in the pictures. It is most certainly NOT a Carter YF, or Autolite 1100 or 1101. It does not look like a Holly 1940 or 1904 either. Appears to have automatic choke, as well as lots of "stuff" going on. Maybe a Carter RBS??? No idea. I don't know what the Weber 1 bbl. carbs look like.

What I do know is that the topic of best carb for 240/300 gets discussed ad nauseum over at fordsix.com I bet you can do better.

I would check out mhg's offer pronto. I got my CArter YF off ebay for $20 plus shipping and it ran great!!

 

well, i took the carb apart and cleaned it, problem solved. Took it about a mile up the road and back, and am satisfied that the problem is gone. I think the main problem was that the sucker part of the carb that sits down in the bowl was almost completely obstructed. Thanks for the help though,

Luke

By the way, cd, I didn't mean to say that the carb in the picture was the carb I was trying to work with, because that's actually a picture of my old carburetor. Sorry for the ambiguity there...

 

I don't know how old this thread is, but I'll jump in anyway. I also have a 240 with an 1101 in my 68. It has the same simptoms. Needs choke to be almost closed to idle and run. I'll try cleaning it out and installing a carb kit tonight. Is your 240 still running alright since you cleaned out the carb? When did this occur since I don't see a date listed? Thanks, John

 

As far as I know the carb is working good now and is a good match. But, now I've got ignition problems, so I haven't done alot of road testing with it.

 

Most likey the problem was a partly clogged main jet - the good cleaning was the trick.

You were not getting enough gas to the engine - that's why you needed the choke to make the engine run.

 

Unfortunately, I overhauled the carb last night with no improvement what so ever. The motor still wants to die if I open the choke more than half way. I sprayed carb cleaner on every gasket and shaft opening with the engine running trying to find a potential air leak. No effect. The carb is making a loud sucking noise like a straw sucking out the last bit of a milkshake in the bottom of the glass. Any ideas? Thanks, John

 

having to choke the carb is a sure sign of clogged jets. When you back down the air, it matches the gas flow thru the main jet and you get the proper air fuel mixture to run the engine.

You might also check the fuel filter - you have a lack of fuel flow.

 

Thanks, I'll check it. John