5.0 cam question

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Jan 21, 2010 | 09:53 AM

#31

Conanski

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The only adjustable rockers I have seen were from Crane and they were expensive. Block decking or head milling would require shorter pushrods but this can also be compensated for with pedistal shims. However.. this problem won't produce any audible noise it may just reduce peak power a little or affect idle quality. It's far more likely you have spring bind occuring because of the high lift that cam produces, in general the exhust springs can only handle about 0.500" lift.

Jan 21, 2010 | 05:25 PM

#32

1stTruck

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"It's far more likely you have spring bind occuring because of the high lift that cam produces, in general the exhust springs can only handle about 0.500" lift."

so is this bad? according to the machine shop they didnt really recomended replacing the springs cause the cam is considered to be OEM replacement. i hope my engine doesnt blow. i was looking at the cam spec and it saids exhaust - valve lift .533 and lobe lift .533.

Jan 21, 2010 | 07:56 PM

#33

xlt4wd90

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From: SoCal

I just saw this, and I have to chime in: .533 valve lift is WAY above stock, even for the new roller rocker engines. And since standard Ford rockers have a 1.6 ratio, the lobe lift must be .533/1.6, or .333. Just as a reference, my slightly hotter-than-stock cam has .456 valve lift. I'm thinking you're punching holes onto the tops of the pistons.

Jan 21, 2010 | 08:08 PM

#34

1stTruck

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Quote:

Originally Posted by xlt4wd90

so this is bad? i order the pushrods according to the cam spec. i also call comp camp and they suggested longer pushrods. do you think this will solve the problem? or do i need shorter pushrods?

Quote:

Sir,
It sounds to me that the push rods are indeed too short. You will need
to use an adjustable push rod in order to determine the correct length.

Thanks,

Bryan Pitcher
Comp Cams
Technical Consultant
901-795-2400 ext.701

Jan 21, 2010 | 09:51 PM

#35

Conanski

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From: Ottawa, Ontario

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1stTruck

"It's far more likely you have spring bind occuring because of the high lift that cam produces, in general the exhust springs can only handle about 0.500" lift."

so is this bad?

Well yeah.. it's potentially fatal to the engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1stTruck

according to the machine shop they didnt really recomended replacing the springs cause the cam is considered to be OEM replacement.

WOW... just another example of their incredible incompetence. For reference the stock cam in your motor produced less than 0.400" lift at the valve, so this cam is a LOT bigger. What kind of noise does the engine make, is it a sort of mechanical sewing machine noise? If that's what you have then it's not serious, high lift cams will tend to do that, but any metal on metal or knocking noises are cause for concern. Do not buy any other parts until you determine what the issue is, and you definitely do not need longer pushrods, if anything they will have to be shorter.

Jan 21, 2010 | 10:21 PM

#36

1stTruck

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Quote:

What kind of noise does the engine make

the noise is more of a vibration noise of metal to metal or taping.taping noise and i am assuming is cause of the rockers been to loose.
this vid shows exactly how loose all my rocker arms are at rest
YouTube - loose rocker

Quote:

Do not buy any other parts until you determine what the issue is, and you definitely do not need longer pushrods, if anything they will have to be shorter.

i order the pushrods according to the cam specs. hopefully that will solve the problem.

Jan 22, 2010 | 10:38 AM

#37

Conanski

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From: Ottawa, Ontario

You need to STOP and listen to the advice you're being given. Pushrods are not selected based on the cam, they are selected based on the valvetrain geometry in your particular motor that takes into account any machine work that has been done. Was the video above of a closed valve with the lifter on the base circle of the cam, and was it taken before the motor had been run or after?

Jan 27, 2010 | 12:37 AM

#38

BEWOLD

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Agreed, stop now. Organize yourself and your parts. Heres a silly question, does this engine have standard hydraulic lifters with a roller cam? You do also realize the cam specs clearly state "STOCK SPRINGS CANNOT BE USED" also studs and guide plates are needed, not bolt on rockers.

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Jan 27, 2010 | 09:51 PM

#39

BEWOLD

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BEWOLD

Not sure if this threads still going, but anyway. Im pretty sure the difference in length between standard and rollers is more than a bit of slack in the rockers, but I did think of something else that is more reasonable, there are different lengths of FSB valves. Were the heads rebuilt with new valves? possibly with non-rail valves that are shorter? Sorry to repeat a few of you on the cam specs, but 1st truck didnt seem to be listening.

Jan 31, 2010 | 10:47 PM

#40

1stTruck

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BEWOLD

Sorry to repeat a few of you on the cam specs, but 1st truck didnt seem to be listening.

I AM SO HAPPY........thanks for all of the replies. i did listen. i stop, took a week off and went back at it. the problem was the pushrods were not long enough. i took a measurment and all i needed for the pushrods was to be a hair longer. stock 6.25 the size that i use 6.28. i dont know if i am making sense but that little bit more let the valves open and close and it stop the rockers from vibratin. we got the engine running and no more metal to metal noise and the engine dont shake. i drove it today and is all good.

now, i am thinking of getting the tranny rebuilt and i read in some thread that 4.10 would be the best since is a heavy truck. any sugestion.
also do header, exhause and air intake make any difference if so what gains can i expect. the truck does feel kind of slow at take off and i wouldnt mind a little more hp.

Thanks
jc

Jan 31, 2010 | 11:07 PM

#41

Conanski

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From: Ottawa, Ontario

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1stTruck

now, i am thinking of getting the tranny rebuilt and i read in some thread that 4.10 would be the best since is a heavy truck. any sugestion.
also do header, exhause and air intake make any difference if so what gains can i expect. the truck does feel kind of slow at take off and i wouldnt mind a little more hp.

OK hopefully you have that problem corrected. What trans and gearing does the truck have now? And what size tires are on it? And are you saying you have the stock manifolds and exhaust on this motor?

Feb 1, 2010 | 10:26 PM

#42

1stTruck

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Conanski

OK hopefully you have that problem corrected. What trans and gearing does the truck have now? And what size tires are on it? And are you saying you have the stock manifolds and exhaust on this motor?

i dont know the gearing. how can i find out. i call the dealer with the vin # but they said they can only go back 10 years. all i know is that is a 4spd automatic.

i have the stock rims and tires. i found a set of rims from a 93 Lightning truck 17x8 that i may want to upgrade to. any suggestions?

yes i do have the stock manifolds and exhaust.

Feb 1, 2010 | 10:38 PM

#43

BaronVonAutomatc

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There should be a metal tag attached to one of the bolts on your rear end. The trucks rear end, not yours. Unless you're a cyborg? There an axle code on the door sticker too if it's still visible.