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I'm sorry but "stock cam" doesn't tell me anything, was this a truck or car motor to begin with? It matters because the cars had roller cams back as far as 1986 while the trucks didn't get it until 1992.
That Comp cam is a LOT bigger than any production cam so you can expect a lot more HP. But the heads may need aftermarket springs too, I don't think the stock springs can handle that much lift.
It even says in the item description that the heads need to be drilled and tapped for stud mounts. Thats another reason that they will be getting you for more $$ is because the heads needed machining also to work with the springs and retainers.
this is a 1993 truck motor. i had a bad day today. the machine shop wont give me any warranty on their work because i added the cam. they also mention that the stock springs would do just find and said they would help me as much as they could if something goes wrong but not really warranty the work because of the cam. when we took the engine my buddys shop, he was almost done assembling the engine when he notice that the lifter were loose.
where the lifter suppose to be replace because of the cam profile?
Your motor should have been a roller motor to begin, was it?
What lifters were installed in the motor, new ones or the original ones?
yes is a roller block and everything else is stock except for the cam.
my concern was that the rocker arms were loose. we got the engine running but is shaking alot. any suggestions
Are you sure you got the right firing order for that cam? Your 93 probably was the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. From what I can tell that cam uses the HO firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
And what do you mean by the lifters being "loose". You can push down on the rockers when the valve is closed, as the lifters are not pressurized with oil, which is normal. As you tighten the rocker arm down with the lifter on the base of the cam, you should see the inner plunger go down slightly.
Are you sure you got the right firing order for that cam? Your 93 probably was the 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. From what I can tell that cam uses the HO firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
the firing order we have is 1-8-6-5-4-3-7-2. so is this wrong??
Yeah that's all wrong. For reference the #1 cylinder is front passenger side and the distributor turns counter clockwise. The plugs should be wired for this order... 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Yeah that's all wrong. For reference the #1 cylinder is front passenger side and the distributor turns counter clockwise. The plugs should be wired for this order... 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
thanks for the info. you guys were right, now we got the firing order right and the engine doesnt shake anymore.
for the cam that i got COMP Cams - Cam Details did i needed to replaced the push rods for the specs of the cam or the stock push rods would do just fine. the reason i ask is because there was alot of play when the rockers were at rest. when the cylinder was push down the rockers were tight but now that we have the engine running you can kind of hear the rocker arms? any suggestions? we dont want to open up the valve covers and replace the push rods and the rockers if we dont need to.
And what do you mean by the lifters being "loose". You can push down on the rockers when the valve is closed, as the lifters are not pressurized with oil, which is normal. As you tighten the rocker arm down with the lifter on the base of the cam, you should see the inner plunger go down slightly.
sorry about that, i meant the rockers had alot of play at rest but when push down the rockers tighten. my concern is that the rockers had to much play. is that normal because of the cam or should i had replaced the stock pushrods with after market? any suggestions? i dont want to waste money if is going to make any difference.
Are you still running the factory heads with the pedestal mount rocker arms?
If so, things like resurfacing the deck of the block, resurfacing the heads, grinding the valve seats, or different head gasket thickness, will all change the valve train geometry. This isn't as much of an issue on adjustable type rockers as you can compensate for some of it with the adjustment. On the pedestal mount type, you can only correct this by using shims under the rocker pedestals or going with a different length pushrod.
Here are a couple of links that will explain more.
jade 79, yes i am running factory heads. i have bored.40 over with comp cams, mill the block. so i should change the rockers and the pushrods according to the comp cam?
"should change the rockers and the pushrods according to the comp cam? "
I don't know how much lift the stock rockers will tolerate before bottoming out against the pedestal, but at .533 lift it would definitelty be worth checking into before you run it anymore.
I'm not saying the pushrods you have now won't work, but they do need to be checked to be certain they're the correct length since your block has been machined and the headgaskets maybe a different thickness. There are tons of articles on how to check pushrod length by doing a Google search. Comp Cams may not even know the exact size you need, you'll have to measure your motor to determine that.