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The machine shop is rebuilding my engine but the shop call saying thats his going to have to bored 40 over and he whants to charge $150 more cause he tough the engine was hydrolic and not a roller block. He mention that the cam upgrade wasnt worth it because its a roller block and adding a cam would only give me like 10hp?
would 40 over give me any problems?
any suggestion on the cam ?
the shop said going 40 over would give me an increase of around 60hp any sugestions on this statement?
My advice.. go get your parts and find another machine shop.. cause they're completely jerking you around. Boring a block is the same regardless what type or brand it is, and boring produces absolutely ZERO extra power. 40 thou over amounts to a grand total of an extra 3 cubic inches in displacement for the whole motor, how much difference do you think that makes? They're also completely wrong about the cam too, it has the potential to deliver 60 more hp not the overbore, that's just more proof they're either clueless about fords or major jerks.
I don't understand why he would charge $150 more just because it's a roller block, a 302 and 5.0 are basically the same block.
You should be O.K. with a .040 overbore, .030 - .040 is typical for a rebuild.
I doubt you'll even feel the difference in hp because of the overbore, it definetly won't be 60hp.
A cam will give you more horsepower, but it also depends on what else you've done to the motor like cylinder heads, carb, intake, gear ratio, transmission, exhaust etc. If you go too big on the cam, you'll start loosing power in the lower RPM's where you use it most. I'd call one of the cam manufacturers and give them the specs for your motor and truck they will suggest something that will work with your combination.
so you would suggest the cam? the shop mention an RV cam
Yes absolutely, all the stock cams besides the HO leave a ton of power on the table. What are the specifics about this motor and vehicle, is it carb or EFI, street or offroad, play toy or tow vehicle, big tires or small, overdrive or not?
my truck is an EFI, street purpose with stock tires. i may upgrade to bigger tires in the future. no over drive. i am not wanting to race or anything but since the engines is been rebuilt i would like to get more out of it.
the truck is a 93 extended cab flareside. i spoke to summit racing and the guy didnt recommend any cam. he said that if i was to upgrade the cam, i would have to upgrade to MAF or else the truck will run bad. the machine shop said he got me a cam from comp cam performance similar to HO cam and checked the specs to make sure it would work with the computer. i hope everything comes out alright. please comment on the issue
The cam must have less than 210deg intake duration at 0.050" lift and at least 114deg lobe seperation angle to keep the EFI system happy. Total valve lift doesn't matter as long as it's under 0.500", but the closer it is to that the better.
get away from those clowns as fas as you can...... next thing you know they will want money to fix the bent johnson rod, or match a racker heat exchange passage in the block..... the people running that place are predators and they prey on the un-informed..... their work probably sucks and you engine will blow up and they will tell you it was the parts and you engine was bad....
Most shops that are reputable will tell you to run a roller with retrofit lifters, or a retrofit roller and machine the block for the stock ford style spider...... rollers work way better with todays oils.....
get away from those clowns as fas as you can...... next thing you know they will want money to fix the bent johnson rod, or match a racker heat exchange passage in the block..... the people running that place are predators and they prey on the un-informed..... their work probably sucks and you engine will blow up and they will tell you it was the parts and you engine was bad....
Most shops that are reputable will tell you to run a roller with retrofit lifters, or a retrofit roller and machine the block for the stock ford style spider...... rollers work way better with todays oils.....
Thats happend to me before with a different machine shop. they did all the work and at the end, the engine didnt run the way it was suppose to. the shop claim it was all electrical problems. thank good a good mechanic i met which happends to be a good friend now fix all the problems. its hard to trust someone now days.
i hope this engine rebuild goes well. my only concern now is the cam. i hope this guy nows what his doing and gets the proper cam thats compatible with the computer
thats why the shop said the cam would be more because of the roller block.
Well yes.. roller cams are more expensive than flat tappet cams, but that's not what you said earlier you said they were charging you more for machine work because it was a roller block.
Did this motor have a roller cam in it to begin with? Is the machine shop supplying the roller lifters and pushrods for this cam as well?