While looking for ways to improve the gas mileage on my "new" 2001 (lost my '94 and a small part of my heart in a recent flood saving my mother-in-law's property), I stumbled across a series of articles and consumer complaints about spark plugs blowing out of these Tritons. I'm actually worried about getting in my new truck and driving it. Sort of took the wind right out my sails of excitement over owning a new truck.

I guess my questions are, how worried should I be? Does blowing a plug actually strip the aluminum threads right out of the heads? Does it happen often enough that I should expect it to happen? Or, should I just drive it like I stole it and enjoy it until the inevitable occurs?

Thanks.

 

In addition to replacement spark plugs blowing out, there has been many original Ford spark plugs that have blown out that were in the engine when the vehicles were new. I don't believe that the spark plugs were installed incorrectly from the factory. I know that Ford has had a problem with spark plugs blowing out of their 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 Triton engines, I think it is a design issue (4 aluminum threads holding the plugs). The heads are aluminum as well as the spark plug threads. The dealers want to replace the heads, although there is a way to repair them and make the threads even stronger, see the tech article on Ford Spark Plug Blow-out. The repair inserts in this tech article is a thick repair insert that can be used when thin repair inserts have failed. The outside diameter measurement of the Calvan 38-100 thread insert is .73" which is a much beefier repair insert than competing brands. And the 389-100 has the correct taper, to seal the compression properly and the same part number spark plugs are used. Why risk using a thin wire insert like the guy that has his van all torn apart in the YouTube Video, when a superior repair kit is available that can be used to install much more substantial repair inserts. And a word of caution, if replacing the cylinder heads with rebuilt ones... You could be purchasing a rebuilt head with an inferior thin wire insert so be cautious if thats the route you choose.
Actually, spark plugs have and continue to blow (explode) out of the aluminum heads even when the plugs were installed new at the Ford factory. Additionally, inserts are prone to blowing (exploding) out the aluminum head too. Go to YouTube and search "FORD TRITON BLOWN SPARK PLUGS" and see a video of a Triton having blown it's second plug (an insert that didn't hold) and also "Google" a search for blown plugs (or ejected plugs) Ford Triton.

On one ocassion, a Ford Triton caught on fire when the spark plug blew out of the aluminum head, ruptured a fuel rail just above it (the plug was still sparking at the time of the ejection) and the truck was completely lost in the resulting fire. This particular event occurred in a F150 truck, having the original factory installed spark plugs.

Some evidence also suggests that the failure rate is more excessive at spark plugs located on the rear of the engine and problematic on the right rear passenger side. Some speculation also reveals that the ejection rate is higher during warm summer seasons than during winter.

Possibly, adding a ram air duct from the front of the vehicle to the rear of the engine (in the area of the rear spark plugs) may help address this issue, but this seems to be a band-aid approach to a faulty designed aluminum head, allowing only 4 threads to hold the spark plug inside the spark plug boss.
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I KNOW THAT THIS IS NOT MY WORDS, BUT I FOUND THIS AND JUST COPIED AND PASTED. ENJOY.

 

Just like every other Manufacturer has there issues with engines, Yes, this can happen on the Triton modulars, I personally haven't expierienced it(yet) on my 01. I have 102k on the original plugs and I check the torque on them every 7500 miles or so. One thing to do is to listen for any changes or odd noises, like popping or clicking while running, this is a telltale sign of an issue up and coming! For as many post you read on here about blowing plugs, there is millions of Triton motors out there that do not have the issue.
Just my 2 cents
Rich

 

the 01 that i had went 198000 with no problem, also have 2 02's one with 5.4 other 4.6
both no problem, 150000+ on them, enjoy your new ride



al

 

it can happen, but not that common. also it normally happens after the plugs have been replaced, and probably overtorqued and pulled the threads. No that it NEVER happened on factory plugs, but i think most of the time it was after replacement. I have changed mine, i think thats a good idea... you just got to remoeber to torque right, not over torque and pull the threads.

 

don't worry about it - just drive and enjoy your new truck.

if it happens, then deal with it.

 

+ 1

I've got 158k on my 97 with the 5.4L, no problems. Motorcraft plugs a dab of anti-seize and 14 foot pounds of torque.

 

dude drive it like ya stole it and dont think about it till it happens (if it does). i can think of 5 trucks with over 130,000 miles that have had the plugs changed and not had an issue. if you worry about it you'll never enjoy your truck. dont worry and have fun!

 

I read all the threads about the problems with the plugs. I was getting to 10 years and 94K on the original plugs and worrying about corrosion. With new plugs, I did all the work myself and did it albeit slow about 5 hours.

It would be easier if you have a good selection of tools to remove the bolt for the Coil on Top of the plug. I think is was an oddball size of 5/64. I finally remembered I had a small nut driver in my electrical tool set. It made it a lot easier. I did one plug at a time to avoid mixup of wires. I did not remove the fuel rails.

Need a good selection of extensions, and universal joints.

I ran the engine for about 3 minutes to get the engine warm so the head were not cold. Since it took so long for me, I rand the engine 3 more minutes after 2 hours. I used antiseize on the threads of the sparkplugs. Use a torque wrench on the plugs for sure.

There is a video of two guys doing the job somewhere on the internet with about the same year--- no url saved.

 

That's what you should torque dry plugs to (12-14 lb.-ft.), when you add anti-seize to the spark plug threads you should only torque them to 10 - 11 foot pounds.

 

That's what you should torque dry plugs to (12-14 lb.-ft.), when you add anti-seize to the spark plug threads you should only torque them to 10 - 11 foot pounds.

 

I'll tell you what, be sure to coat the threads of your plugs with nevrseez when you replace or remove them. This prevents galling the threads and give it something to slip on. Putting them in dry is just asking for thread trouble.

 

And if you are using anti-seize, make sure it's a high temp nickel anti-seize (Motorcraft sells this), the typical aluminum base Permatex anti-seize you get at Auto Zone doesn't do the job here.

 

Thanks guys - y'all are the best. I got the response I was hoping for and then some. I'm gonna have fun with my new truck

I really appreciate the input on changing these plugs. I've always done the work myself, but never paid much attention to the torque of the install. Will certainly do that this time because I'm due new plugs/wires.

Is there a trick to getting them out without breakage?

Thanks again fellas - you've made my day.