I keep reading about people blowing spark plugs and im getting worried. I just bought my truck about 3 weeks ago. Its got 97k on the odo. I have no idea if the plugs have ever been changed and I don't want one to blow out. I was gunna take it to the local shop I usually use but I don't want them to over torq the plugs and CAUSE one to blow out. I thought maybe I would pay the big bucks and have the ford dealer do it but even then im not guaranteed it will be done right by whatever 18yr old kid with his G.E.D is working on it for minimum wage. The only person who will actually care about doing a good job is ME so im thinking of doing it myself. I have changed plugs in many 4 cylinder motors and lots of sleds and atv's but never in anything this large.


Are all 10 plugs relatively easy to access?? will I need any special tools, I have a torque wrench and lots of sockets, is there anything special I would need?? Whats the torque specs on the plugs?? Is it a huge pain in the @ss worth paying to have done or can I handle it???

Im just looking for some insurance that I won't have a plug blow out on the road...

Thanks for the help!!!

 

With 97k that is something I would want to check along with fuel filter etc. You might give the year so the experts here can give you the best answers. For me, I probably will never do it myself again, as there are 3 plugs (cops too) that I can hardly reach. It should be easier for you on a truck though.

Hope you enjoy your V10

 

Access to the rear of the right bank is pretty tough but take off some of the easy to remove plumbing and cables that are in the way and you may have to unplug one or two of the injectors for a little more clearance. When you remove the coils, inspect the boots carefully as they are probably spongy after 100k. If they feel soft and spongy they probably need replacement as they may be arcing out against the engine. They are available seperately through the aftermarket. I believe bad boots which have lost their insulation properties are most of the cause of misfire and failed coils in these motors.

Before removing a spark plug, blow out the hole with compressed air. You will be amazed at the amount of debris you will blow out of what you thought was a sealed area. My opinion is that the plugs blow out due to debris trapped under the tapered seat of the new spark plug and giving a false torque reading. Once the new plug goes through a couple of heat cycles, the debris blows out and your spark plug is loose. Eventually it will back out to where it blows out of the hole. Earlier models had fewer threads in the head which exacerbated the problem.

With aluminum heads, make sure you put some anti-sieze on the threads. You don't want to remove the threads or break off a plug at the next change!

I've followed this procedure (which I've been using for years on all makes of cars, I used to do this for a living) on my V-10 through 2 spark plug changes (50k & 100k). I have not blown out a plug yet (knock on wood!). A friend had his changed at the dealership (at 100k) and has had 2 blow outs in the 50,000 miles since. His is a V-8 but it's the same design. I say you have nothing to lose by trying! Good luck with it.

Lou Manglass

 

The service manual instructs not to use anti-sieze.

 

Which manual do you have that says that? My Ford Service DVD doesn't say one way or another on using anti-seize.

 

what year is ur truck by the way ??

i beleive after 2002, the issue of plug popping is greatly reduced by the thread count in the redesigned heads...

but with that said if ur truck has made it 97K so far, i wouldnt be worried (unless its had repairs u dotn know of)..

if ur not sure u can handle it, then taking it to a shop (and being VERY clear about how the plugs are changed, make sure they know u are informed about how u want the plugs done)... if teh shop isnt willing to quarentee you, they will install them witha proper torque value then go elsewere..

i cant see any reputable shop having a problem, changing ur plugs and intalling/torqueing em as needed...

p.s. while its there id do fuel filter and MAF cleaning aswell.. chuck a Air filter in it to, since its SO easy to do..

 

My excursion is the first vehicle that I ever did the plugs on myself. While the passenger side back two where a pita, atleast I know how and who did the work, and that he cared at the end of the day how it went.
For the price of the boots, just replace them and be done with it. I did a lot of reading and was hesitant with this but went ahead with it and I'm glad that I did. Here is the link that I used the most. I did the work last summer and have about a month ago rechecked some of the plugs for torque and all is still well. Good luck.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...th-photos.html

 

Likely cause some may just slop it on. Trick is not to use much and to obviously keep it from getting onto the electrode.

 

Did 8 out of 10 last night. I didn't do the rear 2 on the ditch side yet. Looks like they may be a little difficult to get to and I ran out of time. Torquing with never seize is a hairy situation. It changes the needed pressure to reach torque. If not done properly, that can cause some major headaches. I didn't use any. Some people say it's fine to use it and others say absolutely not. I changed all the boots and the COP on the rear driver's side. It was running fine but tends to get a little warmer back there according to some.

 

I'd like to know what manual says that also!

Iron and aluminum means anti-seize, at least in my 25+ years experience DIY'ing.

In some cases you won't get dissimilar-metal fasteners apart if you don't anti-seize them, and in other cases, they WILL work themselves lose if you don't use it.

Also, everyone I know on this website has never EVER said not to use it - there have been debates about the torque spec when using it, but who would ever suggest not to use anti-seize on aluminum headed engines?

 

Thats what I meant to say, sorry.

 

MANGLASS AND KREWAT have got it right. I just changed all 10 plugs a month ago and MANGLASS used the same procedure I did.
-Make sure you blow out the dirt and debris before removing the old plug
-CAREFUL messing around the injector electrical connectors as these little plastic fellows get fragile over time.
-Gap and apply anti-sieze to the new plug threads (1/8 inch wide thin cover on threads)
-Properly torque plug
-apply some of that funky dielectric grease for electrical applications on the boot and connector to coil
-The left side, passenger side, side with all the A/C junk is a real PITA to change. Grab many extensions, ujoints, and prepare for bloody knuckles.
Doing it yourself saves $$$ and you know that it was done right. GOOD LUCK

 

Does it come from the factory with anti sieze on the plugs?

What is the recommended service interval for the spark plugs in the owner's manual?

 

I couldn't tell if the factory had anti-seize or not at 50K. I would expect not due to assembly line. I believe the service interval is 100K.

 

Well I think I can handle it. Whats a COP I have a couple ideas but am not sure. Oh and the truck is a 99. I want to make sure the job is done right so im gunna follow manglass steps to a T. People seam to agree his procedure is accurate. Thanks guys!!