So my 2000 F250 has 182k and im not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and ive read a few threads about blowing plugs and now im scared out of my mind. Haha do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything? I appreciate any advice

 

there is a TSB on here with a detailed procedure for removing them. I think its in the tech folder.

 

if the vehicle starts and runs I would not mess with it. The plug change procedure is an experiment at best and involves specified steps with the need to have special extraction tools when the plugs break.

carbon build up is one factor and part of the prep process involves trying to loosen some of that up.

 

The carbon build up and plugs breaking is an issue with the three valve engines put in 05+ super duty's.

The problem with the 2v's is not enough threads on the spark plug and they get loose and start to rattle in the hole and blow out the threads. If you change them with the engine completely cold and just take your time you'll be fine. Just work them back and forth if they're tight. I can't recall the recommended torque to tighten the new plugs to but I generally tighten them to the highest torque in the recommended range.

 

That's completely incorrect. The OP has a 2000 MY truck that never had issues with carbon. In eleven years here on FTE I've only run across one person who ever had trouble getting a spark plug out of a 2V engine.

It's a relatively simple affair to change plugs on these engines, and there's no reason to be nervous about it. Factory spec is 12-14 ft-lbs of torque, and a torque wrench isn't optional. From what I gather most people have issues because they either under or over tighten their plugs. I'd suggest changing your plugs with a torque wrench and going back over them with a torque wrench in a few months.

 

It's just a little more time consuming than your average plug change, blowing out the plug area before removing the plug, bit of antiseize on the plug , the torque , changing the COP boot and spring..

I was ready to pay a shop to do it, then I looked at the shop guys, and asked myself, "who would care more that this is done right?" ,, I ended up doing it myself, I've done hundreds of plugs so I don't know why I even had the thought of paying someone else.

I will say, I miss the old straight 6 and the like , and the 15 minute plug changes..

 

You can run a few tanks of fuel with Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner through both trucks before the plug change to help "loosen" things up. The plugs will probably squeal some on the way out but if you go slow with the ratchet removing the plugs it reduces the chance of galling or thread damage. I have always changed plugs on a cold engine. I usually don't unplug the COPs from the harness to reduce the chance of connector breakage however some cylinders are just much easier to unplug due to space issues.

I would recommend Motorcraft or Autolite plugs because they just work. I tend to lean towards Motorcraft because the std platinum plugs are nickel coated which helps prevent corrosion.

You are not doing the engine any favors running worn plugs. Worn plugs not only reduce efficiency they also increase the chance of detonation. Detonation only increases the risk of a blown plug. Keep the plugs tight and the chances of plug blowout is unlikely. I have done plugs many times on modulars from 4.6l-6.8l and Ford engines that use the same plug design. Have not had any problem or any blown plugs. Tightened by hand with a ratchet because accurate torque readings at angle in the working space is not going to happen. I use the KD Tools 3 pc magnetic swivel spark plug socket set which helps make the job go smoother.