Well sleep on it and I personally would test the voltage at the fuel pump. I was just kidding around. What kind of reader are you using?

 

not sure was a friend of mine...

 

Perhaps some of the guys haven't completely read the whole post. While it is ENTIRELY possible to get a "brand new" part that's broke , and has happened on a number of occasions... your CPS isn't going to affect the WTS light.

Open the diagram that Robin posted, find the diode in your fuse box. Did you get a hold of a Digital Multi Meter (DMM)? If not, the test light should work too. You said all the fuses are good, so now it's time to find the open. Pull out the diode, ground your test light and probe the socket (both sides.) You should get NO light. Now, switch the ignition on and retest. One of the sockets should yield light. If NOT, back up and go to the #30 fuse location and do the exact same test. If you get no light here also, we'll need to get you some more schematics for the ignition switch.

If you get light at the #30 and at the diode, time to pull the relay out and make sure it's getting power. Most relays have a mini schematic on the outer casing so you can see which sockets you need to probe with your light. It should look like the truck schematic (a wavey line, or line with one drawn in circles around it.) With the ignition on, again you should get light on one of the legs. If you do, likely that the relay is bad, if you don't... need a DMM to check for continuity between the diode and the relay (problem in the distribution box, rare in my opinion) Perseverance will be the victor.

 

Good post CPUNeck. First things first and the first thing needed is power to the PCM.

 

Just did a quick scan through the posts, but did anyone sugggest check the HPOP oil level? Too low and fuel won't get through the injectors.

Should be about 3/4 inch from the top.

 

No power to PCM = No Start. Until the PCM power relay operates all other troubleshooting can wait. I don't mean to belabor the point but that needs to be solved first.

 

ok...we are getting somewhere now!!! i now have a wts light but still no start...tach jumps up but doesn't really bounce....there is white smoke coming from the exhaust and smells horrible...we tried ether...just a squirt no luck...now what?

 

Has it been plugged into the block heater cord?
You sure the GPR is working? May need to drop a 3/8" short extension across the two big terminals on the GPR for 20 seconds.

 

I'm certainly glad to hear you've got power to the PCM. What solved that problem?

Next thing you should do is check battery voltage while cranking. 10+ volts needed to start.

 

Oh YEA! that's good to hear, the suspense is killing me... what did you do. Don't worry if it was a bad fuse or something. Can't count the number I thought one was good. I've even had them "test" good in the socket, only to find out later, when I finally pulled them out, the just came apart upon removal. All the meters can do is report continuity, not how much amperage can flow!

If you did NOTHING and the WTS came back on, your not done yet... there is a short that must be found, because that will have been the PROBLEM that cause the symptom of a stalled engine. Hang in there.

 

Ok to get the wts light back on and fuel pump going i swapped a couple of relays and bingo! thinking it was just not in good because everything else seems to be working....then my brother (actually his truck that i sold him a week ago...hes 17 i'm 18, feel bad thats why i've been helping) sprayed a BUNCH of ether in her and she fired...ran for bout 2 minutes and died....he's had it in his head that the chip was screwing the pcm up....its a TS 6 pos i got from a supposed dealer on ebay a month ago...so he yanked the chip and its fine....after he went and drove it for awhile and put the chip back to see...no start again....so for now its off...idk why the truck wouldn't start with the chip on....

 

Well there ya go, this will put a bunch of tools in your box for future issues, there's no education like experience.

Now, has this truck had a chip before? Did you have to clean the connectors for the chip install? Those d*$@ things have to be spit shinned and polished! If it worked for a period, I'd go back to the PCM and hit it with the old scotch pad (green.) Make sure you hit BOTH sides well, I know the bottom is a PITA. I just disassembled my PCM to gain access, but I'm not necessarily recommending that. **Note make SURE the key is OUT of the ignition when you're monkey'n with the PCM or CHIP** That will cost you some dead presidents quick fast and in a hurry. Let us know the out come, no feeling like victory!

 

I'm sure glad you got it figured out and posted back.

Why no one, me included, didn't ask if you had a chip or tuner surprises me. Typically if someone has a chip or tuner we ask them to remove it. If you can't get your money back for that tuner destroy it. You probably know this now but do not buy tuners except from the original maker or someone you know real well. TS Performance makes good tuners but you probaly got someone elses problem. Power Hungry Performance, DP Tuner and Tony Wildman TS Performance Tuners are what we recommended here.

If you get a no power to the PCM again clean the spade connectors on the relay and diode with some emory cloth and also try to clean the female connectors in the relay socket.

Good Luck and Happy New Year.

 

The truck has never had a tuner...i had to remove the silicone coating which was a PITA! going to give it another shot...i'm going to contact the ebay guy tomorrow...its not a individual but store so i think he will work with me....Think i'm going to go with DP this time on my truck (still looking for another since my bro fell in love with the other) and i think hes going with a dp also thanks guys

 

well i thought this battle was over....go out this morning and wouldn't start....same thing....wts light is on...will start on ether what could cause it to not be getting fuel? ran fine last night...